| Author | Message | ||
     Hdxbones |
I've read that there were running changes to the '09 Uly's that include updated wheel bearings and drive belt. Are there visual differences to look for? Is there a date stamp that would define the changes? My '09 has a mfg stamp of March 09, is that late enough to include any changes? (Message edited by hdxbones on December 25, 2012) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm not sure about the belts (it seems they were updated almost continuously) but the wheel bearings are easy- if yours have black seals they're the latest variety made by KBC. If they have orange seals they're the older versions made by NTN. Your 09 is late enough that I'd guess it has the black seal bearings. Per Al Lighton of American Sport Bike, the latest KBC black seal bearings have better seals and less hygroscopic grease (less affected by water). | ||
| Zac4mac |
Hdxbones - you may be thinking of the 2010 3-bearing rear wheel. Only OEM on 2010 models, I think Al can still get them. You need the wheel, axle spacers and bearings. Seems they help the rear wheel survive better if you are large, carry a lot of gear or ride 2-up frequently. I'm pretty light, so the old 2-bearing setup works fine for me... Z | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Hdxbones, We have two ULYs an 06 and 07. Bought both 2010 wheels with the 3 bearings from American Sportbike. My 06' got a magnesium colored and my son's 07 got a black colored one since that was all Al had at the time. Both look great. The black looks fine on the 07 even though the front is magnesium colored. | ||
| Uly_dude |
speaking of 2010 rear wheels. I spied this on craigslist in MN the other day. I can't tell from the description, but if it's new, it might be a 2010 unit. The bearing recesses look deep enough ..... http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/34075187 32.html | ||
| Motorbike |
I think Greg is right, that sure looks like a 2010 wheel to me. Note to whoever buys this wheel: You still need to buy the axle, bearings and mounting kit. | ||
| Hoover_uly |
Hdxbones, I just changed the rear bearings (black seals) on my 09 Uly at about 5,000 miles so don't let low miles provide any sense of security. I found mine were rusty and gritty during a tire change. Although they did not have a lot of play, I cannot imagine that they would have lasted much longer. I'll definitely consider the 3 brg wheel at the next tire change but also plan to remove the wheel periodically to check. No clue on the belt but I do give it a good look every few rides for any signs of cracking. Keeping my eyes open for spare.... | ||
| Mnrider |
Thanks for the link dude I'm might be buying that wheel. He says it came with a smaller box so maybe it has the axle and bearings. | ||
| Hdxbones |
"Hughlysses Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2012 - 04:29 pm: I'm not sure about the belts (it seems they were updated almost continuously) but the wheel bearings are easy- if yours have black seals they're the latest variety made by KBC. If they have orange seals they're the older versions made by NTN. Your 09 is late enough that I'd guess it has the black seal bearings. Per Al Lighton of American Sport Bike, the latest KBC black seal bearings have better seals and less hygroscopic grease (less affected by water)." Looks like I have the most recent bearing/seal version. Are front and rear the same bearing?   The '10 wheel with the 3rd bearing seems a good idea, but doesn't it use the same bearing? If so, and water intrusion in the bearing is the cause of failure, I don't see how upgrading to the newer wheel nets any gains. While the loads may be reduced on the individual bearing assemblies, water intrusion will negatively effect them the same. Are people with the '10 rear wheel seeing less failure than the original wheel users, when both are using the same bearings? Does anyone have a part# for the most recent belt variation?  | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ Front and rear bearings are different sizes. No, the 2010 rear wheel does not use the same bearings as the earlier wheels. It uses 3 slightly larger bearings and it has additional external seals. All you could ever want to know about XB wheel bearings can be found here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442488.html?1345399487 | ||
| Hdxbones |
Thanks for the link, and for answering my question. A lot of good information there. I'll be due for a rear tire before next season gets here, I suppose I'll change out the bearings then as well. The '10 wheel sounds like a good upgrade, I'll have to put that on my 'to-do' list. | ||
| Arry |
The belt I bought this summer is an G0500.1AKF. I just recently put it on, at 10,000miles, and have my old, prestreched belt for a spare. | ||
| Uly_man |
They were still fitting "red seal" front bearings on the 2010 bikes. I had them on mine and they were changed on the 5k service to "black seal" types. The front and rear wheel bearings are a very common (do not know about the 10 rears though) size and can be bought anyplace. There are two bearing fit grades the S and the RS if I remember right. One is a normal bearing fit and the other is a sort of lose bearing fit. You need the normal type. The next thing is that they come in a vast range of seals and temp operation grades for various applications IE a bike right up to aerospace use. You can even buy the ceramic bearing type but they cost a lot. A HELL of a lot. So they go from about 10$ a set to maybe 100$ a set for normal none ceramic types. You can choose just dont but them from HD. They cost more. The AKF belt is the last version and the one to buy. DO NOT let anyone fob you off with a AKD even though it will be cheaper. | ||
| Motorbike |
Hdxbones, here is another link with some pics showing the difference in the 2010 wheel and bearings compared to the pre-2010: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/653516.html?1317306927 | ||
| Hdxbones |
Thanks for the additional info, Uly man,looks like I have the most recent belt. Motorbike, thanks for the link, it clearly shows the difference in the bearings. The upgrade is certainly a substantial improvement. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
On the PM X1 wheels the rear wheel has 3 bearings, I wonder why when they did the XB they went back to 2 bearings. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Pontlee, So they could sell us another wheel with 3 bearings and make money. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Hate to bring this post back up, but I am not so sure about Uly-man advice that you want the "normal" bearing clearances. when I did a lot of research to replace my failing rears on my '06 a few years ago, I came to the result that the increased clearance bearings were the ones you wanted, per some bearing companies web info (I used a lot from SKF website and some experience I had with them at previous job). I installed the RS SKF's several years and nearly 20k miles ago. So far, so good. water intrusion was the enemy for me. External seals, like the 2010, sure would be nice. Just wanted to throw out this caution in case someone is too lazy to follow the above link to the detailed info on our perpetualy bearing discussions here. | ||
| Uly_man |
The RS version is the RIGHT type. WANGING up your axle, as some have done, will screw the bearings on a Buell. And while I am at it this machine has a much easier time than a bike on the road?  Why? Well one reason is because it is used the way it was designed to do and the other is it looked after by people who KNOW how to do it. The Net is a great tool. But some should know being "spoon fed" does no good. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Note that on SKF's, RS is the external construction type (the type of seals used, etc). Internal radial clearances are in the chart below (taken from SKF website). C3 is "greater than Normal" clearances, and is what I used, and believe is correct for this application. That just implies to me that our the Buell has a tighter press fit than "normal", so it needs additional radial clearances to avoid being heavily preloaded after assembly. The rear 6006 2RS JEM bearings shown in one of the above links (Applied website) do not show the internal clearance in the designation, but the Applied website listed them as C3 in their detailed product information. Mine were actually labeled 6006-2RS1 from a local industrial bearing supply. for those really bored (like me apparently): 6 = bearing type = single row deep groove ball bearing 0 = the dimension series, normally would be 2 digits "10" but is only a "0" in the 6 series. no idea why, but somehow this equals a 55mm OD and a 13 mm width in standard bearing land. 06 = bearing ID (shaft bore) in mm when multiplied by 5 (6 x 5 = 30mm for us). 2 = seals on both sides (instead of just 1) RS = specific contact lip seal type 1 = sheet metal re-inforcement used in seal.  Link to SKF bearing designation page:http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/ball-bearings/principles/bearing-data-general/designations/index.html Not promoting SKF necessarily. They just had the most accessible online info back in 2008 when I replaced my rear bearings. I wanted information from an actual bearing company and not just word of mouth from a counter salesman or (gasp) the internet. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The first time I had bearing problems I did some research myself. That's when I discovered ceramic bearings. All I could learn about them was that they were considered prohibitively expensive. I would like to know much more about ceramic bearings. How do they compare as far as load capability, longevity, lubrication requirements and maintenance. Does anyone here know? In order for me to determine this info on my own, I would first have to compile this info on specific steel bearings, then the ceramic equivalent and then compare the two. Has anyone done this that would care to share their findings? They did not seem that expensive to me when compared to a failure that could be life threatening if they were indeed superior. |
