| Author | Message | ||
     Xgecko |
Given the recent cost crash of the Buell Pro Series cams I'm sure I'm not the only person who will be wondering exactly how to do it. I know that the easiest way to remove the Rocker cover which means I need a new Rocker Cover Gasket there I'm assuming that I'll also need a new Camshaft Cover Gasket and to do a full fluids change. I'm pretty sure that I'm gonna do the oil pump gear at the same time so are there any other things that I need? OK as for what to do from what I have read I need to take off the gas tank and maybe lower the engine (at the front) to remove the rocker cover. Pull the plug to find TDC and then remove the Camshaft Cover. Replace gear and cams aligning as the indicators show and then reassemble with new gaskets. I know I'm nuking this a bit but considering that I don't want to destroy my engine I want a really good idea of what I'm doing before I actually do it. | ||
| Mabueller |
Please keep us informed of your exploits. I'm not sure I'm experienced/brave enough to try this upgrade, and not sure it is worth it to pay someone to do it. But I will follow what you do as it looks like a nice bump in performance without getting too crazy. <Jim | ||
| Xgecko |
from all the estimates that I have received it soooooooo isn't worth paying someone to do the work (minimum estimate was 3 hours max was 5) but from what I have read both here and in the manual it just doesn't look that hard. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It looks like you've got it covered. Its not hard. You dont need to change or drain fluids. Take a picture of the old cams and timing marks BEFORE you remove them. Also use the crankshaft TDC mark and cam timing marks to get TDC. (it'll be on or 180degrees out). Swampy's done the pump gear, but its supposed to slip right out. | ||
| Swampy |
Yep I was going to say that. I think the biggest confusion was the crank timing mark, there is a U in the end of the shaft that needs to go straight up I think. If you are changing the oil pump drive gear you are going to need the tool to hold the crankshaft sprocket while you torque the crankshaft nut. They sell them cheap through American Sport Bike? one of our sponsers. Check the oil pump driven gear to make sure that isn't worn also. The factory hose clamps can be replaced with regular worm gear type clamps. You probably won't have to lower the engine to remove the rocker cover. Do, one modification at a time making sure it is right before you go to the next step. You could pinch a slide diaphragm and be chasing cam timing till the cows come home. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Since the nut holding the oil pump drive gear on is only torqued 19-21 ftlbs, couldnt you just throw it in gear and (if necessary) apply the rear brake to hold the engine/tranny while you torque the nut? That would save pulling the primary cover off. If a method to hold down the brake pedal becomes inconvenient, its may be possible to overtighten the brake pedal adjustment to hold the brake on. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"You probably won't have to lower the engine to remove the rocker cover." Though you still might have too. Either way its tight. I needed to use a small allen 'bit' with a wrench to get the one cover bolt loose. You may/will find there are shortcuts to the way the manual does it. PS You've got lots of help and experience on Badweb to get it done! | ||
| Swampy |
The tool I speak of is the one that locks the crank in place on the cam side of the engine. A flat plate with cut outs that fit the crank gear and holes that will line up with two of the cam cover bolts. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, thats different then isnt it (for those that remember Monty Python)! I might have to get me one. I, of course, thought you were talking about the other oft talked about tool. You could still put it in gear, right? I dont see a problem with that.(just looking for the cheap way out) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16082.html 16082, 16083 - Pinion Gear Nut Locking tool Pinion Gear nut locking tool. Use of this tool is mandatory when removing the pinion gear nut. Removal of the pinion gear nut is required to replace the oil pump drive gear, a common failure point for Buells/sportsters. The gear teeth profile changed in 2000, select the proper locking tool for your bike. Price: $34.00 16083 seams to be the correct part number | ||
| Xgecko |
hummm maybe I'll just look at the oil pump gear while I'm there and only do one thing at a time like Swampy said...I haven't ordered the gear yet and I still need to order the gaskets....anyone know the new (my parts book is 2000 and lately out of date) part numbers for the Camshaft cover gasket and the Rocker cover gasket. Thanx | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
cam cover gasket 25353-00YA (Appleton HD had them on sale a few months ago) Rocker cover gasket kit 17036-91 Do the gear. Its only a little more work (you're in there anyway), insurance against possible gear failure and according to the manual its a keyed part so it can only go in one way. The pinion gear has a mark on it to let you know where the key is.After that, you still need to line all the cam timing marks up, so thats no different. PS The hardest part is lining up the timing marks. As often is the case, they can usually go in more than one way (a tooth off). Take a picture, at least you'll know exactly how they came out. Did you order the PS cams? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Is anyone running these cams now? How did it affect gas mileage? I'm using my blast mostly as a work commuter right now and I'm really digging the 70 or so MPG and while I'd like a little more performance out of the bike, I don't want to hurt the gas mileage too much. | ||
| Mabueller |
Xgecko, If you decide to do the cams I would really appreciate the opportunity to come by and watch/help/learn/drink beer as I am just up in MA. <Jim | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slowhand, I doubt you'll see much of a mileage drop. Are you still using a stock exhaust? That should be changed. And if cams and exhaust are done at the same time, you might still get the same mileage! I'd say it might drop to 65mpg.Its not going to turn your Blast into a rocket though, but a definite improvement. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Erik I have... sitting on a bench in the garage, a K&N filter, a proseries exhaust, and a used V&H (debating which one to use) plus all the recommended jets and shims. I'm just worried that I will wreck a good thing. And then a little is not enough, you know how things can start to snowball .. cams, pistons, headwork Which cams are better? The proseries cams or the SE50? (the cams the EZ is always talking about) Are they one in the same? | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I have an intake (photos coming in another thread) and a quiet core Jardine, rejetted to 45/175 with the needle shimmed .047" mileage yesterday was +70mpg. My experience with Jetting recently is that the above combo is the sweetspot for my bike any more jet and the mileage crashed below 60mpg any less jet than that and ileage ran in the low 60's....now winter time is different I can run 48/180 and still be in the high60's low 70's as long as the air temp is below freezing Mabueller not sure when I'm gonna be doing the cam's as my work schedule tends to impede my engine time. All I know is I plan to do them before mid July but as to when it depends on how long I'm here in Westerly yes I did order the Cams $75 is just way too good a deal to pass up (Message edited by Xgecko on May 27, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oh, how the Darkside calls.... The cams I think you mean are the SE550. They are better but wont bolt in without changing valve springs and possibly valve seals (I dont remember if the stock seals have enough clearance). The Pro Series (B50's) will bolt in without any other modifications. Installation of the PS cams, exhaust and filter will have little effect on mpg and reliability (if installed correctly-your bike is only as reliable as the last mechanic who worked on it!). I think you'll be very happy with the added power of the exhaust (V&H or PS) the cams will be a little icing on the cake. As far as 'snowball' I'm not sure what you mean? I'll think about it as I go back to the garage and tear down my 3rd Blast. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
(if installed correctly-your bike is only as reliable as the last mechanic who worked on it!). Now you have me worried, I do all my own work... LOL.. I know what you mean though, my biggest challenge with these bikes was "de-hacking" them. The mechanic for the motorcycle training place that these bikes came from was a honda fan and had no love (or understanding) for these bikes at all! 3rd Blast, LOL... I just sold one so now I'm down to two. I'm thinning out my herd and you are beginning to hoard them, sorta like one of those cat ladies... Blasts and Blast parts all over the house and yard. LOL.. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Xgecko As long as the air temp is below freezing? Thats hardcore! Did you get the cams from Donahue? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
This is off topic.. I know.. But I was just thinking about the commuting I do with my blast. I have a stretch highway where it takes me fifteen minutes to a half hour to go two miles, lots of idling, the blast gets plenty hot. Has anyone played with putting an xb fan on one of these? | ||
| Xgecko |
yes Slowhand that's who I ordered from; fan won't do you much good....think oil cooler I didn't stop riding all year (though I did take a few weeks off in Feb when the temp was in the single digits) I commute by Blast nearly every day I can so reliability and comfort are my priorities. Nearly all of my riding is spent in the 2-4K range so I'm hoping the cams will improve this a bit (Message edited by Xgecko on May 27, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
At 8200 miles on a 2000 Blast this gear is shredded. Are you sure you want to wait?  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, you'll need to lower the engine (the bolts come out of the rocker cover, but you cant get the cover out). About 4 oz of oil will pour out when the cam cover is broken free of the engine. You dont need to disconnect any lines or wires (but you may have to unplug the ignition module at the frame by the petcock to allow some slack in the wiring). So Swampy. When you did your shredded gear, how many parts did you need to replace? Anything I might miss? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did I just get called a Blast hoar?! My denial wants me to ask, why did you have 3 Blasts? The Darkside wants to know why havent you completely modded one out yet (cams, head,piston,ignition,etc.)? You know you want to. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Would I call you a Blast hoar? but if the shoe fits..... The three blasts were part of a 6 blast fleet of bikes used for MSF training. Half of the instructors didn't understand how to ride these things (mostly gearing issues)since they are so (wonderfully) different than the rebels or Yam dual sports plus the mechanic insisted that they were junk and too high maintenance. So HE talked the board into selling them at a ridiculously low price. As soon as the board agreed (I sit on the board) I offered to buy them all, whipped out my checkbook right there. I wound up with four, sold one immediately, and strangely.. the mechanic who insisted that they were junk, got the other two (he wanted all of them). He even moved them all to HIS garage already and swapped enough parts between the bikes to make two nearly perfect low mileage bikes. Since I paid a little more than the agreed upon price I got my pick of the four bikes... guess which two were loaded onto my car trailer first... LOL!!! I intended to do exactly what you mentioned, make one radical... compression, heads, cams, etc and keep one stock for my honey to ride, (can't get her off her sporty though) but I hit a financial rough spot, my employer folded up shop owing me about 20G and then sent me a 1099 instead of a W2 so I had to cover taxes, social sec. etc. Nice guy huh? So I may end up having to sell all of them eventually. Hopefully I can hold onto the "problem child" (yellow 2000) I think I'll check with donahue HD and see if they have any of those cams left at that price, maybe check on the oil pump stuff too, they are about 50 miles away from me in Delano MN it will make for a nice Memorial day ride! BTW! They are a great dealership and understand Buells! I really can't say enough good things about them. I go there for parts when I have the time to run out there. My local dealership, TCHD sucks! You inquire about Buell parts and their eyes glaze over and ignore you till you just go away. They don't even like looking up parts for evo's anymore. Total "Yuppie - RUB" only dealership. Sorry this went a little long.. I do tend to ramble... LOL. | ||
| Xgecko |
Wait no, but I don't have the money right now for the tools and the oil gear so I think I'll look and if it needs it I'll revisit as soon as I can afford it...my 2000 has made it 22,000 miles so far | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
For future reference-timing marks. The marks on non stock cams may be a little different.  These are from an engine that has (as far as I know) never been taken apart. | ||
| Swampy |
Yup, thats what they look like! The slot on the intake cam goes up. There are more that two timing marks on the exhaust cam so it makes it confusing where to put it sometimes. Gearheadericko, is that your Blast with the shredded gear? Check the oil pump real close because the first place those teeth go is right into the pump, and they jam the oil pump and cause the pump to lock up. The new oil pump, larger scavange impeller, runs about $125. I had better check the Little Kids Blast as it has over 8000 miles and I have an extra oil pump gasket laying around. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 28, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That is my newly acquired Blast. I'll be pulling the pump tomorrow and its good to know they've updated the pump, if I have to replace it (cant replace stock with stock!). (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 28, 2007) |
