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Tripp
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i'm in the middle of a nightmare m2 belt replacement(i will post in knowledge section later) i could'nt get my right isolator out and kinda ruined it, sooo i went to my closest buell dealer which is over an hour away to get 1, i just want to verify the part number before i continue, i was given h-d part#47564-86a and it looks like the part, but it's oddly angular so i wanted to check with u guys before going any further(i have a 99 cyclone btw)....
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The isolators are all oddly angular. If you look closely at the left side isolator you should see the same basic skewed shape is evident. The part number listed in my '97/'98 Cyclone's service manual is 47564-86, so your "a" version will probably work fine.
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Tripp
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks blake!! i hope to install isolator and new belt tomorrow!!
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Spiderman
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

WHOOOOO there fellas. Since you are in there why don't you upgrade to the new Isolators???
Part numbers
L0504.9
L0505.9
There is a left and right make sure you get one of each.

edited by spiderman on July 05, 2003
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Ray_maines
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"nightmare m2 belt replacement" is redundant
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, if he wanted to replace both,that might be a good idea. But he'd want the full upgrade kit no?

New (2001) rear isolator kit #Z0010.CB
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Hootowl
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is not getting both isolators out of an M2 just as easy as getting out one? I didn't mean to say it's easy, I know it's not, but that's like changing one wheel bearing. As long as you have them out, get the 2001's. You'll be glad you did.
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Tripp
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

doh, i already bought the old one! i shoulda checked here first before doing anything! is the new set up that much better(must be)?what a project though! eeeeek
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blake,
You don't need the Kit you can use the stock isolator bolts, which I prefer over that torx bolt crap.
Plus why would you leave a old isolator on one side and a new one on the other?? Thats like replacing one fork tube or one side of your brake pads.
Tripp,
The Isolators are awesome stiffer and give ya a better feel for the bike. Worth the 9.50 each
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Crusty
Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tripp, I just replaced the belt on my 2000 M2 last week. It's a royal pain in the ass(though not as bad as adjusting the valves on a desmo Duck). I STRONGLY recommend that you replace both isolators with the upgraded versions. they're bigger, stronger and more durable; and they'll be one less thing you'll have to worry about.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I agree with Tony and Crusty. Might as well do both.
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Tripp
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

it figures they only had one in stock @ $41, my local dealer is not very helpful, spidey is there a left and right for the old ones too?
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Tripp
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i totally need a parts book for this bike! sounds like i should go with the new kit with the old bolts! I KNEW I SHOULDA CHECKED HERE FIRST!!! i'm going to put her back together for now and in a few weeks pull it apart and go with the new set-up, where can i get these stock parts at good prices? my local dealer is over an hour away and does'nt ever seem to have jack for stock, these guys don't even have any damb t-shirts!
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you get the 2001 isolators and don't get the kit, you'll have to cut down the front pulley cover, or take it off completely. You'll understand when you see the new ones.
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S1joel
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here's the new isolators.

New
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Spiderman
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just cut down your cover with a dremel, use your old bolts I did and no problem in 10k miles. Uless a factory anony can say diff I see no problem physically in using the old bolts. As long as you use the right lock tight and antiseze in the proper location per your man.
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spidey,

When I put the belt on about 6 weeks ago the isolator bolts on mine were TORX.

Did the 98 Lightning come with those or did the retailer install the upgrade kit?

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Tripp
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

omg, did you say cut the cover? i bought carbon fiber for everything(a small fortune, as u all know)can i cut it with a dremel?
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't see why not. Wear a respirator. I don't think you want carbon fiber dust in your lungs.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The 98 bikes used hex bolts. If you have torx, it's a good bet you have the new isolators. Do they look like the ones posted above? With the metal flange?
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tripp,

When you install the new isolators, make sure they don't twist on you. There's a line on them that runs laterally from the inside to the outside across the face of the rubber. It looks like a seam. Make sure that sucker is straight after you get them torqued. A small amount of grease on the back of the bolt head helps prevent the bolt from digging in and turning the isolator. Not sure what type of locktite to use. The upgrade kit bolts are pre-locktited with blue, but I don't know if the color corresponds to what you can buy at the auto parts store.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blue loctite and the book says to use AntiSeeze on the back of the head bolt not grease. Well I am sure you could use grease but i would rather use antiseeze :p
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My Isolators did not have the metal flange on them.

They were also in good shape when they came out.

But, No big deal to change them just time consuming. The trick was to get the motor secured to the floor of the garage.
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Anonymous
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Using the old bolts with the new isolators is not best practice. They "can" cause the isolators to fail early when the isolator flexes and makes contact with the old bolt head.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Anony what is the Size difference in the old bolts and the new? Was this the reason for the upgraded bolts?
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Anonymous
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

New bolt, button head style TORX with low profile. Old bolt, socket head with high profile.


Yes.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This will let me know if you are who i think you are.
How do you fix the sproket nut comming off on a S1?
On the assembly line that is.

edited by spiderman on July 09, 2003
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Anonymous
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't, the S1 has been out of production for several years now.
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Court
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 05:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"who" is none of your business. Stay focused on "if". No need to hide next to the phone booth to see who runs in to change.

I assure you that the info is credible.

:)
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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