Author |
Message |
Lasbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:05 pm: |
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So it happened my front upper exhaust stud broke. The lower one the nut is gone?? So who runs what for studs? Does ARP make anything? I know I need the tool to drill and tap it. Any hints, tricks, do a and or don'ts? |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:10 pm: |
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Just remember that the stud is much harder metal than the surrounding threads, and go very slowly. Heat sometimes helps. |
Xb9sxbuellxb9sx
| Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 06:53 pm: |
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Get a can of AeroKroil. Spray some on the stud a couple times the day before you try and remove the stud. It will make your life much much easier. I just removed all 4 of mine to replace with some ARP studs. After the AeroKroil, they almost felt loose... (Message edited by Xb9sXBUELLXb9sX on July 15, 2018) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 08:45 pm: |
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If you use a penetrant like that, make sure you get it all OUT before you install your new studs. If it works well enough that "they almost felt loose", residue can loosen the new studs as well. Lots of brakleen before assembly! |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2018 - 02:39 pm: |
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I just removed all 4 of mine to replace with some ARP studs. After the AeroKroil, they almost felt loose.. You will love the ARP stud kits! Do yourself a favor and get a set of the XB flanges too. They are much thicker and made of SS. |
Kc_zombie
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2018 - 07:34 pm: |
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Don't spoil it, Kroil it! |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 09:23 am: |
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JIMS Exhaust Stud Drill Plate Manufacturer Part Number 1705 J&P Part: 440-266
I have one of these and it pays for itself after a few uses. I drill out the stud then go inside the hole with a carbide or diamond burr to just isolate the threads. Then I grab the thread and twist it out. Once, I got the entire thread out in one piece. Whatever you do, don't break an easy-out or tap in there. Good luck, be patient and go slowly. Z |
Lasbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 10:45 am: |
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So I bought a can of the Kroil from McMaster "for work" (wink, wink) that will be in today. I will lube it up. I also purchased Jims kit. I did some quick looking on ARP last night and there wasn't a direct fit for the Buell (shocker). So I plan on calling them but what am I asking for? No idea what size to ask for? Since I have the header off I plan on replacing all of the studs or is that a waste of my time? Anti seize? Torque spec? Book says "Exhaust nuts 6-8 ft lbs" "Cyl Studs 10-20 ft lbs" I put some P.B. Blaster on the rear nuts, took it for a ride around the block and the nuts almost fell off. My PLAN is the throw the header on, fire it up, let it get up to temp, then pull the header and first attempt to use a left hand drill bit to see if I can get it to back out. Working on cars over the years I've had exhaust bolts and studs FROZEN in the head. Fired it up got it up to running temp and the same frozen bolt came out like new. Yes I need to be patient I tend to B.F.I. (brute force ignorance) things! Thanks for the info guys! Here is a picture of me racing my girlfriend on her 2014 Fatboy!
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Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 11:30 am: |
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Here is one of the many threads about exhaust studs and ARP studs http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/669332.html?1380923390 |
Bluelightning
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 11:39 am: |
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It's essentially a sportster engine, get exhaust studs for that. |
M2x2
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 01:13 pm: |
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I have doubled up 2 exhaust flanges and used a roll pin to size of drill bit with great success for the cost of a $.30 roll pin. |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 09:59 am: |
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Buy these from a vet-owned business. https://alloyboltz.com/product/polished-grade-8-stainless-harley-exhaust-stud-kit-4/
As I mentioned above, go with the XB SS flanges.Being SS they also take a nice polish. After breaking one stud I did both of these changes maybe 10 years ago and have had zero issues since then.
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K12pilot
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 11:19 am: |
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The alloy bolt kit is sweet but they will not fit on the under the frame headers (rear upper stud) Also ya need to use a different size 12 pt socket. iirc 7/16. just another thing to remember for a road trip. That being said I installed them on my S2 this winter. |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 11:56 am: |
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K12 can you clarify? I don't see why the stud kit won't fit, but could see why you cannot use the XB flanges - is that what you meant? If not, can you show us a picture of the problem? |
Xb9sxbuellxb9sx
| Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 11:04 am: |
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I have the alloy bolt studs on my X1 (under frame header) and they fit great. Only downside is that it is hard to find a 12pt tool to tighten the lower rear nut. |
Upthemaiden
| Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 12:41 pm: |
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Speaking of those nice 12pt exhaust studs, I've heard about people using similar 12pt bolts on the intake flanges as well. Anyone here used them and have a link to the kind you've used? I bought a set at one point, because I haven't had any kind of good luck with those stupid 1/4" head socket bolts, but the new set I bought has flanges at the bottom that are way too wide to fit in there. I may put the screw into my drill and try hitting the flange with a grinder while it spins to wear it down evenly, but curious what other people already sorted out. |