| Author | Message | ||
     Buellrobot |
I have replaced the crank seal on my own '02 X1 with no problems, but when I tried to repeat the operation on my step dad's '99 X1, I met FRUSTRATION  The metal spacer you're supposed to be able to remove by hand is very very stuck (see below for example of which part). I tried by hand, I tried with all kinds of gentle methods, I eventually tried with a set of medium channel locks (figuring I could replace the spacer if I scored it up). The damn thing would not budge and when I did think it was coming loose, it was actually the engine turning over. As I was working I could see there was a LOT of red locktite that the previous owner had used on the nut holding the stator in (and the one on the clutch side too – seems like they used a ton). There was a lot of crusty resin stuff on in the cracks between the metal spacer and the crank shaft itself (more red loctite, I assume). I removed what I could with a dental pick. I have a feeling that the thing is glued in with red locktite and I'm really not sure what to do. Should I blow torch it to melt the locktite (and burn the hell out of the old seal)? Any ideas would be appreciated. Not my bike, but picture is for reference about which part:  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
A good paint stripping föhn does work good for this kind of things too. When doing this it's better remove the stator. | ||
| Hootowl |
Yes. Remove the stator, then try a gear puller, if you can get behind it. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
You can't get behind it.. Use heat to break the Locktite.. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I think if you remove the stator, then use wood screw to have a "grab point" on the seal you should be able to pull it out. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Another point. When putting in the new seal, make absolutely sure you don't drive the seal in too far. If you do, your crank will make short work of that new seal and it will fail almost immediately! There is a HD tool for that, or you can fashion one from PVC pipe. | ||
| Airbozo |
I made one on a 3d printer. Worked perfectly, but was a little rough, so I sanded it slightly where it contacts the seal. I left the rough edges on the rest of it so I had something to hang on to to remove it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784320 (Message edited by airbozo on May 05, 2017) | ||
| Buelliedan |
use heat to break the loctite loose. A small pencil torch would work best | ||
| Hootowl |
Don't heat the shaft, heat the spacer. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Heat followed by cold will often work. Get a can of wart-remover which works with liquid nitrogen and spray it right after heating the loctite with a narrow-beam torch. | ||
| Buellrobot |
Thanks for all these great tips. It feels much less intimidating now. Will be heading back to Oregon later this year and will bring a replacement spacer, along with pen torch and wart remover. Will report back once deed is done. Cheers and happy spring! | ||
| Buellrobot |
Reporting back on this – I was in Oregon during the fall and did have a chance to try getting the spacer and seal out. I got one of those pen torches and did a lot of torching and "channel-locking", but finally got the spacer out. The shaft was coated in crystalized locktite chunks. The seal came out with a lot of careful wiggling, tapping, and prying, but I managed to not scar up the inside surface where the seal mates. After putting in a fresh spacer and seal, replacing the clutch pack, and buttoning everything up. Even with 25k miles, the engine still fires up really nice! Thanks for the suggestions in this thread – couldn't have figured this one out on my own. |
