| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
I recently installed the Y hanger for the header. I did grind part of it for the ground like in the instructions online.. Rode it for two days no problems. 400 miles. Now I wonder if I had done something that effected the battery. Tried to start it today. Everything sounds and looks right. Pump primes, oil light goes off after a few secs. When I hit the ignition button. One click then nothing. Mileage/trip part flashes and so do the tail light and head light. Dead battery? Or code for something? What does the voltage regulator do?? | ||
| X1bully |
Trying to charge the battery with my 10 amp charger. Don't have a battery meter would be a good thing to install next.  | ||
| Hootowl |
AGM batteries (any lead acid MC battery really) will likely be damaged by anything more than three amps. | ||
| Buelliedan |
sounds like your key switch might be bad. Pretty common on the barrel key switches | ||
| X1bully |
Thanks left the charger on for a few hours. Tried this morning, signals work also. Same thing as before so I guess it is the ignition switch. Any upgrade for this? Suggestions? | ||
| Two_seasons |
If it is the ignition switch, I would buy an HD replacement. There are other brands out there, but I believe HD makes the best. Either way, you will now need two bike keys (one for ignition switch and one for fork/seat). Might want to check your ground at the voltage regulator. | ||
| Harleyelf |
X1's got seat locks? | ||
| 1313 |
X1's got seat locks? Affirmative! Well, from the factory they did... 1313 | ||
| Hootowl |
Any locksmith should be able to rekey the seat lock to match the new ignition key. | ||
| X1bully |
Good news is I finally got my other bike working so I don't have to hurry on making a decision. Ok I'll ask HD and get a quote. It's better designed? I wonder if I can fix it from unbolting the back? I read one guy fixed his by cleaning it, it was the 1125 though. I was thinking of buying a used ignition, amazed at how easy it is to unplug and plug in a new one since I took my front fairing off. Problem is I need to buy the special wrench for it to remove the original one if I do it myself looks easy enough. Of course I don't want to have to fix it twice so looking for the best upgrade option if possible. The seat lock I deleted. Basically I just took the whole lower part of the fairing off. I was thinking of getting the X1 custom short tail and seat. Also thinking about getting a gas cap without a lock because I still need a key when unlocked because the middle piece rotates from the idling. (Message edited by X1bully on June 29, 2016) (Message edited by X1bully on June 29, 2016) | ||
| X1bully |
Tried one last thing. Attached jumper cables to bike with car shut off. Did not work either so for sure not the battery. Indeed I think it is the key switch. First notch lights on strong, second notch powers up, fluctuates and flickers, sometimes light on strong but once start button is hit lights fluctuate and flickers. | ||
| Ducxl |
WOW...10 Amps of charging on a motorcycle battery | ||
| Akbuell |
PM sent. | ||
| Harleyelf |
You need Gmann's gas cap fix while you can still get the cap off. Your battery might still be the issue; you did not isolate it from the circuit during your last test. Take your car battery and attach it to the cables for your bike's battery - and be sure to disconnect at least one of them from your bike battery. Do not start the car. The special spanner wrench to remove the retaining ring of the ignition switch can be mimicked with a small screwdriver and a brass mallet. For a test of the switch, open up the connector and lay a hunk of large diameter silver solder across the three terminals. Plug it back together and it should be as if the key is on. | ||
| X1bully |
Interesting I will try those two things. I thought a 10 amp charger was pretty low. I guess it's a lot for a bike battery. I have a WPS battery. I don't know if it's a good battery or not I got it with the bike. I have been using Yuasa for my other bike. | ||
| Hootowl |
Yeah, 10 is a lot. Chargers that are labeled "Motorcycle battery" chargers are typically in the 1-2 amp range. | ||
| X1bully |
So today I tried bypassing the ignition. Pretty much samething. Everything looks normal. Then when I hit the ignition button a buzz from the amp box at the tail. Then all lights start flashing. What is the ignition piece in the amp box called? Can I get it at any auto parts store? So if it's not the thing in the amp box. Then it maybe my voltage regulator because that's the only thing I've changed recently. Same voltage regulator new Y bracket.   | ||
| Hootowl |
Did you remove the paint on the bracket where the vr grounds? It's in the instructions that came with the upgrade kit. What is an amp box? | ||
| Jim2 |
In the box is fuzes, an ignition relay, a starter relay, and two diodes. The buzzing you hear is most likely the starter relay since the buzzing happens when you hit the starter button. Try swapping them first but you can buy replacements at any HD dealer or at any Autozone store. The HD ones are better and actually cost less. Sometimes they get corrosion on the blade contacts and just removing get them and putting them back in can clean them a little. To clean for real get electronics parts cleaner, comes in a spray can. Just spray on and they are clean. The relay just pulls straight out. Relay part# Duralast Part#19389, Autozone. Or Standard Auto part# RY-612. I do not recommend the Duralast relays, they are crap. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Those relays look the same as the xb bikes use! For the xb you can use a ford relay number: F57B-14B192-AA | ||
| X1bully |
Yes I did grind some paint off with a dremel. I wonder if not enough. Pulled the two larger ones and one that's pretty rusty. What does the little one with rust do? I think this might be the problem. Ignition? I sprayed the oil tank with water to get the oil off when the cap was loose and missing a bolt must have got enough over spray on the fuse box to rust that one.   | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
The little one is a diode It only let's the electric juse through one-way ,so make sure you put it in the correct way! | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
For removing the oil ,it works better with brake cleaner or blasting with the air gun. | ||
| X1bully |
The bracket had some paint off the Y bracket already where the instructions said to take off paint. I took a little bit more off as well. So hopefully it was not that because I hate working on that part. lol! Thanks, tried wire wheel dremeling the rust off the diode. Same thing. Since the HD relays and diodes are better I'll wait for tomorrow since they're closed today. | ||
| Jim2 |
Use a small amount of dielectric grease on each blade before re-installing. That should be used on all electrical connections to fend off corrosion. You can get a big tube of it at the Autoparts store. Just a small thin film where the connections meet. On the backside of the fuse box I jamb a decent amount in the open holes to keep water out. | ||
| X1bully |
Well ordered the parts but won't get them till next week. Diodes needed to be ordered. $19 for two relays and two diodes from the HD dealer. Went to pepboys and a relay was $18. I returned it after trying it. So I think it may be the diode. Does this wire look right? Gold part out should not be? It's a bullet connector for the voltage regulator. The zip ties are as they were. I didn't cut the zip ties and didn't mess with the wiring at all when install the Y bracket.  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I think the gold you see next to the zip tie is just the yellow isolation from the wire. If there is a car parts yard close by ,have a look at some ford focus or other type ford cars and get some cheap relays and diodes from it. It's good to have some on hand when needed! | ||
| S1owner |
I have a zip lock bag full of relays from S1 and M2 if anyone needs them I had 4 wire harnesses that were garbage so kept all the goods but went to a motogadget unit so no need now | ||
| Two_seasons |
OK, I got a couple of ideas for you. 1.) May be a right hand controls issue (starter switch) problem. 2.) May be a discrete wire in the fuse/relay/diode lock failed on the backside of that block. In other words, the spade wire connector on the end of the wire, the lock may not be locking. Sometimes when you reinstall relays/fuses, if the lock on the discrete wire connector is not staying fully engaged in the phenolic block, it will slide to the back of the block, thereby not making solid contact. I currently have this issue with my 2000 X1 Lightning | ||
| X1bully |
When I pulled the relays out, the phenolic block holding it did slide forward from the steel fuse box housing trim. Not sure if it's supposed to do that. Sounds like what you're saying (2). Mine is a 2000 as well. Is this safe to spray on my fuse box slots to clean? The guy said it was ok. Not sure though. One of the diodes was pretty rusty! So I want to clean that slot. (Is wd40 bad for fuse boxes) just curious it's usually pretty good for all sorts of stuff.  |
