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Ratchet
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After a six month slumber, my 2001 S3 will not start. The battery is charged, it cranks but does not start. The plugs are dry. When I depressed the Schrader valve a stream of gas came out. Gas is fresh.
Any ideas?
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Loose1
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sticky, clogged injectors?
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Lake_bueller
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Petcock closed. Sounds stupid but we've all made that mistake.
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Loose1
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't think FI tubers have petcocks? I have a S1 so not 100% on that.
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No petcock on fi tubers. Try starting fluid?
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Jolly
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had a similar problem on a FI bike that sat for a while, checked the battery, it showed a good charge, however, when I tried a fresh battery it fired up. these bikes like a strong fresh battery when they have sat for a while...

other than that, fuel delivery issue would be my guess if it ran when last parked....clogged injectors as stated above or very bad gas.....
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Ebutch
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check idle maybe too Low = won't start.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You covered bad gas and fouled plugs. Unless there is a chance you fouled the plugs during the winter and they are dry but still fouled. Given the cost abd the ease of doing so on a tuber, I'd throw a new set in there just to remove them as a variable.

When this happened to my Uly, it was mouse family in the tail section that decided lunch should be the bank angle sensor wiring harness.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Car-sized battery with heavy cables, not alligator clips of any size, bolted to the bike's battery. Unplug and re-connect the ECM Deutsch connectors. Ground strap connection to frame should be cleaned until shiny, then re-assembled.

Jolt that ECM with more available current than it can waste through dirty grounds and tired batteries. As Bill says, plugs are cheaper than aggravation. A small squirt of starting fluid in the plug holes couldn't hurt - but a big one could! That stuff dissolves oil into something with no lubricating properties. If it won't fire and the plugs show spark, then concentrate on the injectors.
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Ratchet
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just purchased and installed new plugs an hour ago. No difference. It still acts the same.

Where are the ECM Dutsch connectors. What do they look like?

Also, I plugged in my code reader I got from American Sportbike, (sad to see them go). It reads a 5 -6 which is a cam sensor. The light on the dash flashes a five then three slow flashes pause followed by three more slow flashes. According to the chart it is a cam sensor.
Would this keep the bike from starting?
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Loose1
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it controls your spark, injector timing.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cam sensors can go out suddenly. Take the timing cover off and sniff for burnt electronics. The Deutsch connectors are square and gray and attach all the wires to the ECM. Their pins can be individually removed, which is great for working on them but not so great for withstanding vibration. If one of the pins looks out of line with the others push on the wire to re-seat it.

My cam position sensor failed progressively over two years. Drove me nuts chasing it down. I use a Sportster one now with the carburetor.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup. Cam sensor can do that. Surprising that the ECM detected it.
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Dave
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you getting spark at the pugs?

Do you get the fuel pump prime at ignition on? (I saw you said the Schrader valve released fuel)

Agree with the extra jolt from a second battery. My M2 needed a little boost but finally started.

DAve
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Ratchet
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No spark at the plugs. The plugs are brand new. Gas is new.
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Ratchet
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update:
I tried jolting it with a good charged car battery. It will crank but not fire. I tested again to see if there was any spark - no spark.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before going much further, I would certainly replace the IGN relay with a new one. Or at the very least, swap relays and check for spark. Easy to do, eliminates a variable, and if it doesn't work, you already know where to start looking. . .

Hope this helps, Dave
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Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you suspect low current flow is your root issue, bypass the ignition switch, too. Just take the connector behind the headlamp loose and bridge all three wires with a heavy piece of solder.

Sounds like the cam position sensor. Mine gave unwanted sparks that sometimes came during the compression stroke. Annoying.
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Ratchet
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, I will replace the Ignition Relay. What does it look like and where is it located?
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Alfau
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 12:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pull the spark plug wires and check for rusted connectors.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like a car's horn or headlamp relay, is a square box under seat with fuse box.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uh, no spark is the prime symptom of the cam sensor.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/712569.html#POST2241157

(Message edited by reepicheep on April 11, 2016)
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgive me, but if you have a code for a bad cam sensor...replace the cam sensor!! Don't futz around with relays and crap, go for the (relatively easy) part that's throwing the code - and is known to have this symptom - and I bet it will start and run.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the S3 do the same thing the XB's do, and cycle the fuel pump when the CPS shows the motor at TDC? And I think my M2 had an LED that went on somewhere or something.

(Side note: how the heck do they do that on a motor that is not running and that is being turned by hand at wildly varying speeds? I know they do, because I have used it to set the timing, but how do they know if it is going backwards or forwards and which teeth it went past when the speed of rotation is controlled by me grabbing the rear wheel and wrestling it to turn it? )

(Message edited by reepicheep on April 11, 2016)
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have an M2 with a fuel pump? That's gotta be a special build!

I know that cam position sensors usually fail by giving fewer sparks than designed, but mine failed by going schizo and giving unwanted sparks. It sorta ran for two years before I converted it to an XL in a tuxedo.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, sorry, that wasn't clear.

I remember setting timing on my 2000 M2, my 2005 XB9SX, and my 2007 XB12X Ulysses. One of them, I think, had an LED that I could see somewhere. The XB's also had a fuel pump that would cycle on for an audio cue.

I was trying to remember if the LED was on the M2, or if it's just a dim and confused memory. The M2 does not have a fuel pump, and I never thought it did. But isn't the S3 fuel injected?

(Message edited by reepicheep on April 11, 2016)
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Ebutch
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Won't start if Idle is Too Low !!!!! Up Idle!! Can be done 2 ways throttle cables or throttle body. SIMPLE TEST !!!!!
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aftermarket ignitions can have an LED.
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Ratchet
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am not positive it is the cam sensor. The code reader I have is difficult to determine which code it is throwing out.
I did order an ignition relay today. It should arrive in about three days.
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Ratchet
Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Today I used electronics spray to clean the Deutsch connectors and relays. The battery got recharged. I tested the coil and really did not get any reliable numbers on the ohm meter.
The bike cranks much harder but still does not fire.
I suspect it is the coil but I am not sure the test I did was accurate.
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