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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » S2 Thunderbolt » Archive through August 10, 2015 » Banke frame brace « Previous Next »

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Blks1l
Posted on Monday, April 06, 2015 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody have any issues installing a Banke frame brace on an S2? I have had one sitting around for a while when I tried to install it, it won't fit. It seems like compared to my S1 which it will fit, that a curve in the frame is a little further forward not allowing me to push the brace far enough to fit at the front attach point.
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Jefc73
Posted on Monday, April 06, 2015 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have one installed on both my 95 and 96. No issues.
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Blks1l
Posted on Monday, April 06, 2015 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess I am going to have to go back out and try to mess with it more.
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Phelan
Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The front bracket is different between the S2 Banke brace and the S1/M2/S3 brace. You could bend it to fit, though you may have to elongate the mounting hole.

(Message edited by phelan on April 07, 2015)
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Blks1l
Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ross that does make sense, on both of those items, I thought that it may need a spacer between the front bracket and the arm and that it would also still require elongating the hole. May be easier just to make a new front bracket.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You don't need the brace on the S2, unless you just want to put it on because you like the way it looks.
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Blks1l
Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had read that Hootowl, but was curious if it would help with any of the vibes it has. it's just not as smooth as my S1 or S3, which have also read can be normal.
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Phelan
Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I actually welded a 7/8" rod to my frame as a frame brace and the bike felt considerably more rigid in a good way.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"was curious if it would help with any of the vibes it has"

I don't see how it could help. The brace stiffens the V mount for the heim joint, which does not inhibit the up and down movement of the engine, so I can't see how it could have an effect on vibration.

On the S2, the V mount is made from straight tubes, and does not need to be further stiffened. Later model tuber and XB frames use curved tubes and, starting in 99, come from the factory with a brace.
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Lynrd
Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if anything, i would think the brace would have more potential to increase vibration, but as Hoot said, the basic geometric perfection of the S2 frame (there, I said it) obviates the need for one other than for cosmetics.
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1313
Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the basic geometric perfection of the S2 frame


But then again, there's the rear inner fender Teflon rub guard...


The 'basic geometric perfection of the S2 frame' comment still tickles me!
1313
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dont know if the Frame brace will help but a Stencel bar might




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Fxdrydr
Posted on Saturday, April 25, 2015 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome! Thx for posting the diagram for the stenzel bar. Note there's a difference in the hole diameter for new and old style isolators. Again, thx!
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4speeder
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2015 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can someone help me understand how this aluminum bar makes something more rigid? The front appears to be mounted to the front rubber isolator and the rear is mounted to the engine brace, so it appears it is just tying the front isolator to the top of the engine. Is the intent of the bar to somehow make the actual engine assembly more rigid and has nothing to do with the frame since the bar is isolated from the frame by the front isolator? Sorry, I'm just not understanding the pictures.
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Hootowl
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2015 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Supposed to keep the engine from moving forward and backward. Some say it reduces stress on the isolator bolt and the front engine bracket bolts where they thread into the heads.
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4speeder
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2015 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Hootowl. I can see how it would help keep the front isolator through bolt from trying to "rock" fore and aft in the aluminum mount. The through bolt would be supported both above and below the rubber isolator so it could not rock. Whether or not that is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist I don't know, but it's an interesting concept. It appears it would not be detrimental in any way, so it might be worth experimenting with!!!
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