| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
Thought I'd replace wheel bearings when I change tires. Did a search looking for info on how to do it. Mostly found many ways NOT to do it, what is the proper method for this job, and tools needed? Marchesini wheels. Thanks | ||
| Jolly |
Just did this not too long ago.... no photos so let me see if I can walk you through how I did it. To remove the bearings the best way is to use on old axle and slide it through then tack weld it to the inner race of the bearing and drive it out, this pushes the bearing out perfectly square to the bore of the wheel... then pull the internal spacer out flip the wheel over and drive both bearings out with a socket that fits into the wheel so that, again, it pushes the bearing out perfectly square to the bore of the wheel.. no welder? me neither...! so I used a drift punch to knock the bearing out, you have to first "tilt" the internal spacer out of the way with the drift punch then "walk" the bearings out, be careful not to get them to out of square so that you don't orbit the wheel bore... re-installing.... the book walks you through which one to do first and I don't remember off memory.... but it sets the spacing for everything else. I took the new bearing to the local tool store (sears) and bought 2 sockets (same size) that just barely caught the outer race of the bearing, then flipped the socket over and inserted the socket extension into it backwards so that the flat side of the socket would make contact with both the outer and inner race of the bearing - NO UNEQUAL FORCE ON EITHER RACE THAT ISNT MATCHED ON THE OTHER RACE! I used that as a bearing driver to set the first bearing, then flipped the wheel over and set the wheel with the bearing installed sitting on the other socket back face (this keeps you from counter driving that bearing out when you set the other side)... inserted the inner spacer and drove the other bearings in.. worked like a champ! | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks Jolly that's what I'll do. | ||
| Buell_lee |
Heating the wheel CAREFULLY with a heat gun will help when getting the bearings out then freeze the new bearings in the fridge overnight and using the heat gun again helps with the installation. | ||
| Johnod |
I'll do that too, thanks. | ||
| S1owner |
The heat and freeze works well when installing keep the bearings in the freezer then heat the wheel carefully that little bit of space makes a huge diffrence. | ||
| Lynrd |
Thats also a good trick for installing piston wrist pins - freeze the wrist pins, put the piston in very hot water. | ||
| Johnod |
Just an update, got the bearings out. Rear wheel with the punch method, which I didn't like. Bearings spin in wheel too, that sucks. Then I bought this yesterday, http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-pu ller-95987.html and did the front today. It worked pretty good and was on sale for $49 which was a good deal imo, in case someone is in the market. | ||
| Hootowl |
That kit looks like a good investment. | ||
| Easy_rider |
As far as the bearing spinning in the wheel, Loctite makes a product (660?) meant to fill in small spaces like I hope you have. I used it on my rear PM and it held up very nicely. | ||
| Johnod |
I've got some coming in tomorrow, we'll see how it works I guess. | ||
| S2forever |
My spun PM ended up with 0.005” metal sheet filling the gap. | ||
| S1owner |
Ive wonered if one of these would work for removal this pick exaggerates the end but you push through and pound out wish I still had mine to try  | ||
| Imadog |
I think I will make room in the tool box for the slide hammer. Thanks! | ||
| Imadog |
I waited too long for the HF sale, it is back up to $70. I ordered what I believe is the same one from Amazon (I am dangerous with Amazon LOL) http://www.amazon.com/BLIND-INTERNAL-BEARING-PULLE R-HAMMER/dp/B00G35GDAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429 391579&sr=8-1&keywords=blind+hole+bearing+puller |
