| Author | Message | ||
     Purpony |
Can anyone with a WORKS shock post pictures of the location of your Reservoir? Also can you measure the diemeter with a pair of calipers? some people are telling me they are 1 3/4 dia and others are saying they are 1 7/8 dia. thanks | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Call Works 818-701-1010, best to get it straight from the horses mouth...IMHO. | ||
| Akbuell |
Given my IT skills, pics are out. Sorry . . . My remote reservoir is 1 7/8in in diameter. I have the reservoir mounted on the left horizontal frame tube, hanging below the tube, parallel to the ground, just above the primary chain inspection port. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| 46champ |
Mine is in the same place as Akbuell's. That is the only logical place to put it considering the length of the hose. It is also 1 7/8 inch in dia. | ||
| 99cyclone |
Here's a picture of mine. Measured about 1.860" diameter.  | ||
| Red93stang |
Mine is 1.860" as well.  | ||
| S2forever |
They can be made to order. I specified hose length to mount the reservoir where original one was. But I do not recommend it because there is not really enough space for it there. Next time when I send the unit to the factory for service I will ask them for longer hose to hook the reservoir down the front frame where front tie bar mount goes, or elsewhere.   I do not know the diameter right now. One problem with my bike is the rear end shakes a lot at high speed cornering above ~80 mph on bumpy road and it does pogo. I believe it is from too little rebound damping. I weigh only 130 lbs and shock has corresponding spring. I wonder if anyone else has similar problem with Works shock. (Message edited by s2forever on December 06, 2014) | ||
| Ratbuell |
That strikes me as either an adjustment issue, fluid issue, or a valving issue. I'd contact Works directly and make sure that while you have the correct spring, you also have the correct valving for the fluid portion. I'd also have handy, your bike weight information, your current adjuster settings, and your weight info (in gear), so they will be able to offer adjustment suggestions. | ||
| S2forever |
Ratbuell, I am very curious as everyone else seems to be happy with Works shock. My shock is fully adjustable. I am quite sure that spring rate is correct, preload setting is correct with sag at 1 ~1.5". Rebound is slowest. I am not sure about compression though, so I tried various compression settings but cannot tell big difference. The faster rebound damping the more rear end shaking, so I ended up with slowest. I tend to think it is either valving or fluid issue, but I am not expert. Another thing that I suspect contributes to the problem is very softly damped front forks. Somehow I poured HD E-type fork oil which I found is watery. I just wanted to use up bottles laying around for years. I will ride it another season and change fork oil with one with correct viscosity and see what will happen. Any comments are welcome. (Message edited by s2forever on December 06, 2014) (Message edited by s2forever on December 06, 2014) (Message edited by s2forever on December 06, 2014) | ||
| S2forever |
Rear tyre is now quite worn but the symptom was clearly there when the tyre was new. And air pressure is correct at ~35 psi. | ||
| Akbuell |
I wonder if the heat and vibration due to location is causing the fluid and valving in the reservoir to get 'confused'? And front suspension settings can/will directly affect how the rear responds. | ||
| S2forever |
Actually they clearly stated warranty would be void if it's mounted where it is now. But I thought stock Showa unit is like this and should be okay with Works too and still think so. Yes I suspect forks. I will try thicker oil after one season, it is too fresh to be thrown away, I feel guilty. Actually I am too lazy or too poor, or both  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Too fast will give you chatter, yes. Too slow...gives you pogo. Sag is all spring, no comp/rebound. Leave the spring if you're happy with it. Ride a stretch of road you know gives you issues. Stop. Make ONE change, and one change ONLY, to the shock. Ride it again and evaluate - worse? Go the other way on your adjustment. Better but not quite there? Go a little further in the same direction. MAKE ONE CHANGE ONLY. Ride it again and evaluate. Repeat until satisfied. Once satisfied, go home. Make note of ALL the settings on a piece of paper or in a computer file, for future reference. | ||
| S2forever |
That is the way I ended up with current setting. There was some confusion in terminology I used : I meant "more damping" by "slow damping" and "less damping" by "fast damping". Anyway current rear shock rebound is set at most damping to minimize rear end shake and pogo. | ||
| Ratbuell |
"shake" (chatter) and pogo are at opposite ends of the adjustment spectrum. Chatter is from the suspension being too "hard"; pogo is to soft. You need to find the middle ground that will give good motion and bump absorbtion, without being harsh and causing chatter. | ||
| S2forever |
Ratbuell, Rear end shake, I meant "rear end weave" where rear end of the bike feels like moving left and right at high speed cornering on bumpy road. Both this rear end weave and pogo are from too little rebound damping is my understanding. Sorry for confusion... | ||
| S2forever |
Ok, I found on the internet the correct term for my bike's symptom is rear end "wallowing". | ||
| Akbuell |
While I think I have my sag set about where yours is, the OE shock and the Penske all set spring preload so the shock length eye-to-eye is 15.2-15.5in with the suited rider sitting on the bike. Check to see if your shock is in that area. If it is, try adding 2 full turns of spring preload, and test ride. Can't hurt; you can always turn the adjuster back. FWIW, years ago I had the rear shocks off my Ironhead Sportster, for some reason or other. A friend had a set of struts I could borrow, so as to be able to keep riding. Fully expecting a 'boneshaker' ride, it was the front tire and wheel that pattered and skipped around. The rear felt planted. A long way of saying that if spring preload doesn't help, the front suspension may be the culprit. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| S2forever |
I will check eye-to-eye length. My method was to set 1 ~ 1.5 " of sag with myself on the bike and try, and move preload around a turn or two pro and aft and try. With more preload it seemed rear end wallowing decreased but as far as I know, preload should be the first thing that should be set correctly. I can minimize wallowing by increasing preload but then sag is too little. It makes me suspect somehow my shock has too little rebound damping. | ||
| Akbuell |
Cool! Question partially answered! If increasing preload minimizes wallowing, you are on the right track. Or, at least moving to a solution. And in your case, with your riding style, on your bike, 3/4in sag (or more or less)may be closer to correct. BTW, are your isolators and motor mount and tie bars in good order? | ||
| S2forever |
With Showa shock I did not have such a problem probably because with its stiff spring for my weight I had very little sag with it, if any. Yes I will try a little more preload in the next season, I already have a lot of snow around my town. Yes, front and rear all in good shape. The symptom appeared all of sudden when I switched to Works. | ||
| Lynrd |
Here's the reservoir for the Works shock on Veronica. The front reaction arm anchor seemed like a good spot to me - would love to mount it to the frame brace but there isn't enough meat left. Regarding the OD discrepancy - I think both answers are right - the shock reservoir measures 1.750" in the narrower areas meant for the clamps, 1.875" in the rest of the body  |
