| Author | Message | ||
     Steveford |
Is anyone making a bushing to take up the slop from the new-style front isolator with the skinny bolt that HarLee is sticking us with? I could use 3 of them (one for now, two for future use). Thanks, Steve Ford | ||
| Jramsey |
If you don't have a Lathe, a Drill Press and a 1/2" drill will work. (Message edited by Jramsey on September 15, 2014) | ||
| Buellistic |
No body understands that the BIG TWIN front engine mount sits on this isolator and the BUELL engine hangs from it !!! That means if you do not bore/drill out this later isolator you are hanging your engine from a smaller OD bolt !!! (Message edited by buellistic on September 14, 2014) | ||
| Jayvee |
Anybody have the original bolt's dimensions/grade handy? | ||
| Steveford |
I understand that perfectly. I'm not sure how well reaming out the isolator will work - I did it on one before and it was still really buzzy which is why I'm thinking taking up the slop with the skinny bolt might do the trick. Harley's not going to make the right sized one for us, they don't care. | ||
| Alfau |
The replacement works fine as it is, simply make sure it is torqued correctly. If you have any doubts ask Al At American Sport Bike. | ||
| Blackm2 |
What Alf said. There is no need to drill, go with a larger bolt, or shim it. I had nearly 20,000 miles on the new style before I sold my Cyclone. It showed no signs of wear or tear. About to put the new one on my Lightning. | ||
| Kalali |
I'm curious about this "slop" that you guys are talking about. Mine is still nice and tight after almost 6k miles showing no signs of wear or any unwanted vibrations. I remember a long debate on this when the new design had just come out but don't remember any conclusive evidence one way or the other. | ||
| Steveford |
Small bolt going through large hole in front motor mount - it certainly wasn't designed that way. (Message edited by SteveFord on September 17, 2014) | ||
| Buellistic |
Steveford: There are a lot of BUELLers running the small bolt in the large hole ... When one of them rides his BUELL hard enough and breaks the bolt then we will have our first believer ... Or just the mere fact of running a smaller bolt isolator ... (Message edited by buellistic on September 17, 2014) | ||
| Steveford |
I take it that I either have to go to a machinist for the bushing or ream out the new isolator. Nobody is offering a bushing, is that correct? | ||
| Buellistic |
Take it to a MACHINIST and explain to him that a larger OD OEM bolt held the front of the engine up and what is his opinion of using a smaller OD bolt and see what he says ... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
My understanding is that Buell engineers, not machinists, approved this part so it should be good to go as is. The original OEM solution was just as much a parts bin solution as the new OEM replacement is (they are both OEM parts). If the larger bolt hole bothers you I guess there is no harm in putting a bushing there. The engine only hangs there when you are not on the gas. Anytime you grab a hand full of throttle it is trying to compress the rubber - not stretch the bolt. I also don't see where the bolt is ever in a shear condition. | ||
| Buellistic |
This ISOLATOR came from the BIG TWINS where the front of the engine "SETS" on this ISOLATOR and "DOES NOT HANG FROM IT" !!! | ||
| Hootowl |
Pretty sure his point was that, though the original bolt was bigger, it was only bigger because that's what was in the parts bin. The smaller bolt is strong enough for the application, according the Buell. | ||
| Buellistic |
Would you fly in an airplane that the engine was attached with smaller bolts, "WHEN" it originally had larger ones ??? | ||
| Blackm2 |
Would you fly in an airplane that the engine was attached with smaller bolts, "WHEN" it originally had larger ones ??? As long as that bolt had more than enough strength to handle its given task, yes. These new mounts have been out for 5 years now. Heard of any breakage of the bolts yet? With all due respect to your knowledge and advice from your many miles on your Buell Lafayette, you are the only one that beats this drum. The part has been tested quite thoroughly I'm sure. | ||
| Spiderman |
Thank you for the people that have stood up for this part. My friend and Buell engineer used his own personal S2 as a test muel for said project with no failure. In fact this is what he had to say... "Oh brother! Mine was the test mule five years ago is is still hanging tough." As for Laffy Taffy, I can no longer stand by while he tells people to use a door hinge post as a crank locking tool and other ridiculous tips! I'm sorry but a a bolt designed to hold a specific load is not ok but crap carbon steel designed to hold a couple pound door used in such an application is OK!?!?! Guess I cannot expect much for a man who put mountain BIcycle bars on a road used S3... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
This ISOLATOR came from the BIG TWINS where the front of the engine "SETS" on this ISOLATOR and "DOES NOT HANG FROM IT" !!! And when you gas your big twin, it tries to stretch the bolt, when you gas the Buell it tries to compress the rubber. So the big twin likely puts more stress on the bolt than the Buell. FWIW I do use some of your tips such as adjusting the primary chain... (Message edited by scott_in_nh on September 18, 2014) | ||
| S1owner |
I find it funny that people argue about these things Put the part on and go ride you all could have had 209 miles of fun in this time  (Message edited by S1owner on September 18, 2014) | ||
| Greg_cifu |
You're forgetting something: all of your rear suspension weight is pulling down on that bolt and the front mount IN ADDITION to the static weight of the engine. The small amount the engine might unload on the swingarm isolators is offset by the rear weight transfer of the bike. I'm not positive that the bolt is dangerous being smaller but, it certainly was not a good thing for that to happen. | ||
| Kalali |
This topic was discussed ad nuseam when the new part became available. That thread went on a few pages/days. I'm sure anyone interested can dig it out. The OP's question has already been answered - make your own bushing or drill out the hole. | ||
| Spiderman |
It may have been answered but drilling or reaming is the wrong answer! DO not modify the new kit. It was extensively tested by Buell engineers. Again using their personal Buell motorcycles to test and verify, hell he still has it on his bike without issue. They have done the math and physical testing not just a feeling like most here have posted... | ||
| Steveford |
I'm having some spacers made for my bikes. For those of you running this new isolator, take a look at what this does to the snubber washer - in under 500 miles mine was mangled from trying to be sucked into the motor mount. I had to bang it flat and then run a 7/8" drill bit through it. No wonder the bolt was fighting me when I tried to get it out. | ||
| Blackm2 |
What torque did you set it at? | ||
| Kalali |
That's really strange. I just went out and looked at mine and it looks perfectly flat. I've had mine for at least 3000 miles. I did put an extra washer on the bottom between the ISO and the lower engine mount. Don't recall why. Probably because I had an extra washer and just used it. | ||
| Steveford |
The torque is whatever is in the manual, I'd have to look it up. Try taking the bolt out and see if it'll just drop out - I had to press mine out with a block of wood up against the frame and lowering the jack to drop the engine. The washer was deformed right at the hole where the bolt goes through. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Torque is different on the new one than what is in the manual, in fact if I remember it is less. Which would explain deformity if you are torqueing higher. Main bolt is set to 63-70 ft-lbs on the new isolator. | ||
| Steveford |
It's been a while since I put that isolator in but if it came with an instruction sheet (I think it did) that's what I would have used as it would be right in front of me. I'm not in the garage at the moment to look in my maintenance log book where I keep that stuff for my bikes. Do me a favor, Blackm2, try dropping your isolator bolt and see what your washer looks like - perhaps mine is just an isolated occurrence. From what I saw it looks like the isolator was bouncing around on a thin washer mounted above a large hole. (Message edited by SteveFord on September 24, 2014) | ||
| Blackm2 |
I no longer have my Cyclone which I put that isolator in. Going to be ordering the new one soon for my Lightning. They did come with an instruction sheet Steve, that is where I got that torque figure from. I remember the manual was a higher torque setting for the old bolt. Post a picture of what the washer looks like. |
