| Author | Message | ||
     M2typhoon |
I would send the whole thing to Hammer and have them make it right, pistons, jugs, heads. I've seen plenty of weld jobs and that's a piss poor one right there. | ||
| Splatter |
Sambo your being given some really bad advice from someone whose not very knowledgeable but I think your smart enough to see that. I'd just do like Typhoon says and just take or send it to a reputable shop who knows how to fix those heads and make your parts all work together properly. | ||
| Rocket_in_uk |
Sam, all I can say is I don't get why you jumped the gun if you're objective is to rebuild it without spending a small fortune. Regardless, you're kind of legged in now and you appear to know what you want to do and seem happy about it. That's a great start for any rebuild. Rocket in England | ||
| Rocket_in_uk |
Sambo your being given some really bad advice from someone whose not very knowledgeable but I think your smart enough to see that. Why would you feel the need to throw such an insult? What's your agenda then? Getting on forty years I've put more broken and f**ked engines back together with used parts than you've had wanks since you reached puberty. He wanted an inexpensive simple fix - and still does. Consider this before you go blowing his budget for him. But then we've not heard your expertise have we. Other than you recommend some plagiarising business you've likely no experience of. Whatever. Rocket in England | ||
| Jayvee |
If you hold piston over/into the opening of the head how does it look? Hannan's was the "good place" I was thinking of... Just for reference I see two well-known (not to imply well-respected by all) shops online charge $40 per head to cut the squish band. I would be Hannan's would be in line with that, plus no shipping. But, sales tax, oh well. I think that's the route I would go, if I was going on a route. | ||
| Sambodean |
my plan is to send everything into Hannans. Im balls deep in it now, if the old man says replace certain things, i will. I was on the fence for keeping the bike, or just rigging it back up and selling it, but thats done with now. this is the only bike that I've actually felt has had a personality. plus, its relatively easy to work on, has heritage, and sounds bad ass. I love unique things, and this is one of the most unique bikes I've owned. | ||
| Alfau |
I'll pray for you. lol | ||
| Splatter |
"Just for reference I see two well-known (not to imply well-respected by all) shops online charge $40 per head to cut the squish band." Exactly Right its not expensive to machine chambers. Its cheaper to fix it right than micky mouse it and get different pistons. Hes lucky he found those pistons cause the 30 degree will let them machine out all that damage. | ||
| M2typhoon |
Those heads should be completely rebuilt unfortunately. Never trust old springs, keepers, locks, guides or seals. DO NOT HALF ASS IT! You'll regret it if you do. | ||
| Rocket_in_uk |
Some here like banging on about it BUT they forgot the remit was to get the engine running on as little expenditure as possible. The engine could have been repaired with a cleaned up head. Replacement valve. Cylinder hone and matching new or used piston kit. Gaskets, oil and filter. Spark plugs. It would be running now! What we have now is a can of worms where a set of heads need to be worked to match a set of pistons if they're to be used. The heads need more than squish, which isn't going to come in at forty bucks as Sam will no doubt find out. Yep there's a bit of work to do but it's cheap as chips in Cali...... apparently. Rocket in England | ||
| Sambodean |
ebay's cheap. We'll find out how cheap the work for the chambers is soon enough. Once again, the point to keep the price low was based on my intention of selling it. That is no longer the case. I know all too well about blowing money, you're forgetting i own a boat. I favor the thrill from riding vs sailing though, so in my opinion, these parts are worth it. When driving 8 miles takes you two hrs in traffic, it sucks, but i won't have to deal with that for another couple months when school starts back up, so I'm not in too much of a rush like i thought i was. | ||
| Gusm2 |
Nuff said........hopefully | ||
| Kalali |
"Nuff said........hopefully" I sure hope so. Sam - Report back when its all done. | ||
| Sambodean |
General question here, my ignition switch was replaced by a cheap one from fryes electronics. It's busted, and will need replacing. One thing I hate is how the ignition is on the side. I looked at an x1 gauge cluster and it's almost identical, but has ignition switch on there. Are the mounting holes in the same location as an x1? I can just put my gauges in an x1 mount, extend the ignition cable and have it in the convenient spot... (Message edited by Sambodean on June 11, 2014) | ||
| Sambodean |
bueller? | ||
| Lynrd |
I dunno - but it is probably possible to make new holes, or a new dash panel, if needed. The X1 wire harness has enough slack to put the switch on the side or up in the dash, But I have not been into any S1s to say if it is the same on those. | ||
| Rocket_in_uk |
I don't believe there is enough loom to get up to the dash - though it would be very simple to extend the wires necessary. Very simple to do. Rocket in England | ||
| Sambodean |
Roger. Thanks for the info fellas | ||
| Sambodean |
I have a question (go figure?) regarding the reassembly of the top end. Who uses actual gasket sealer? I have rarely used it on any of my bikes, but was wondering if harley's /buells warrant this kind of thing? | ||
| Alfau |
Who uses actual gasket sealer not necessary unless you reuse gaskets | ||
| Rocket_in_uk |
Do not use gasket sealer on base or head gaskets! In fact go one better and use Cometic gaskets. Not only are they reusable, they are best quality. Rocket in England | ||
| Sambodean |
Anyone have suggestions on a ring compressor set to get (besides the harley one)? I found this one on amazon, but I'm open to all suggestions http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PVAEXO/ref=ox _sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
About base gaskets ,did the early buell engines have base gaskets or only some gasket sealer? For compressing the piston rings ,its easy to make a band from some thin aluminum sheet. (Message edited by Brother in buells on June 16, 2014) | ||
| Davefl |
That one from Amazon looks a lot like the one I have from Napa. I had no problems using it. | ||
| Lynrd |
Re: Ring compressors - I buy mine at the hardware store...  | ||
| Phelan |
genious! | ||
| Sambodean |
Lynrd. Do you use individual clamps for the different rings? Don't they slide together and jam up on eachother when you try to insert it? | ||
| Lynrd |
I use one clamp and just slide it down as I go. Get the ring gaps all in the right place, put the clamp on so the top compression ring is just under the clamp all the way around. Sometime all the rings will fit under, sometime the bottom of the oil control ring is sticking out a bit. Lube everything up, slide the cylinder over the piston and gently work it down, with two flat wrenches on the crankcases to hold the piston still.. The worm drive screw in the clamp lets you really control the compression of the ring. If the bottom of the oil control ring hangs out, you will find it easy to adjust the hose clamp to squish it in place. After the last ring goes in, just unscrew the hose clamp completely and slide it out. God, I've been doing top ends that way since the 70s (Brit twins and Harleys)....I thought that was the way everyone did it... | ||
| Sambodean |
lol Honestly, it seems like such a simple concept, and it completely slipped my mind. I'm used to working on Giant MTU diesel engines that need a special tool for everything, and I guess I developed the mindset that everything needs a special tool. I almost thought i needed a tool to find TDC, but then i whipped out the clothes hanger. which brings me to another question. Obviously the cylinder has to be at TDC (compression stroke)when installing the heads. I don't have my manual with me, but is there any special thing i need to do when reinstalling this? Besides the obvious rotating the tire and making sure the piston is at the top. This has to be one of the most critical steps, right? | ||
| Lynrd |
Erm...why does the piston need lo be at TDC to install the heads? Pushrods and rockers go on after the heads are on.. I guess you are thinking about that part. The important part is to read and internalize the part in the manual about letting the lifters bleed down before turning the engine after installing the pushrods and rockers. I have calibrated the leak down time at .6 cigars per cylinder. |
