| Author | Message | ||
     Chuckbob1989 |
Here I am again stuck with a running issue should I sell or fix. I just had the carbs redone do to running issues ran good the first day second day it started spitting and and jumping like it was trying to suck more air so I did intake seals like I was recommended to. Now it's still doing it but I'm having a issue with the bike cutting off on me. I will run fine for half a mile than will sound like crap and once I pull clutch in or sit long enough it will die and not start again for about 3 min any suggestions on what issue is?? | ||
| Hootowl |
Sidestand switch? | ||
| Jumbo_petite |
coil starting to fail??? | ||
| Kilroy |
carbs? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Fuel filter? Does taking the cap off your tank fix it? That would be venting failure. Carbs? You run Del Orto carbs from an old XL racer? If you do there may be a bracing issue putting too much strain on the intake seals. You need firm mounting straps holding them to the heads. I love my 60-year-old Jaguar carburetor. | ||
| S1owner |
Fully charge your battery and bypass sidestand see if that helps | ||
| Ratbuell |
First, you have one carburetor. Please explain what was "redone". It does sound like a fuel tank vent issue. Unless you installed an external fuel filter, there is no filter on an M2, only a screen on the tank side (inside) of the petcock. The way to test for a fuel tank vent issue is to take it for a ride with the gas cap flip-lever flipped up - that releases the rubber o-ring seal around the filler and allows the tank to breathe. Do not turn the lever like you're getting gas, just flip it up and go for a ride, and see if it does better. You can also check to make sure the intake seals are installed properly by spraying them with carburetor cleaner while the bike is running. Do not spray into the carburetor, but if you spray it at the seals and the idle changes, your seals are not correctly installed. | ||
| Harleyelf |
It may be a partial blockage of the fuel line or the petcock screen. Take the fuel line off and blow through it. Put a catch pan under the petcock and turn it on without the hose installed. Do this when the motor is not hot. | ||
| Rich55016 |
I would check the side stand switch. Mine was doing something similar, it was the bank angle sensor. You can bypass it with a paper clip to test it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
For reasons I can't explain, on vehicles ranging from string trimmers to quads to Yamaha Viragos to Kawasaki ZR-7's to a 1942 Willeys last serviced in Normandy... no matter how well I clean the carb the first time... I have to pull it and clean it again a second or third time before its really "right". For better or worse I am the neighborhood go-to guy for carb cleaning. I'm getting pretty good at it, and I enjoy the challenge, so I do it a lot. Perhaps if I had an ultrasonic cleaner or more toxic chemicals it would work the first time, who knows. Modern fuels are really a disaster for carb'd vehicles. | ||
| Chuckbob1989 |
I'm going to check everything this weekend that's posted on here and than I will repost thanks | ||
| Chuckbob1989 |
Side stand switch is already bypassed when I checked the ignition coil I tested it has 4 ohms on the primary side and no just says OL on the secondary side does that mean ignition coil needs replacement? The bike runs down road for 1/2 mile than dies | ||
| Jumbo_petite |
Is your Ohm meter auto ranging? If not you may need to select a different range to correctly measure the coil's secondary resistance. It has been too long for me to remember a typically good secondary resistance measurement. Check the service manual and it may have resistance specs listed for the ignition coil (Message edited by jumbo petite on September 03, 2013) |
