| Author | Message | ||
     Bikerrides |
I just had the rear ISOs replaced (front was replaced about 6K miles ago)and have since developed a very noticeable vibration after putting about 200 miles on the bike. It started after I did a very hard acceleration up to about 6K rpm in 1st gear and it pulled an impressive wheelie when I shifted to 2nd. I loosened and re-tightened the muffler yesterday and things were improved but not as good as usual. I've looked at all the motor mounts, etc. and don't see anything obviously broken. Here are some pix of the front and rear isos. Does anyone see anything that might be out of whack or a sign of where I need to look the most?     | ||
| Jramsey |
Front Iso is is installed upside down....not that it makes much difference. | ||
| Bikerrides |
HD tech installed it...go figure. | ||
| Alfau |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/670515.html A bit about vibes here. Mine seems to have settled down. Ask American Sport Bike about drilling the Isolator before you waste your time. | ||
| Lakes |
I would fix that front isolator as not right is that last update front isolator? | ||
| Smoke |
drive pulley tight? | ||
| Bikerrides |
Lakes, what is wrong w/the front ISO? Also, I got all the ISOs from American Sport Bike, so I assume they are the most current parts; front has been on about 8 mos and 6k miles. Smoke, gonna check the drive pulley today. Any other advice on what and how to check is welcome. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
In your last pic. is the metal tab up against the frame? Also, seems like there was a position those metal tabs were suppose to be set at. Don't remember for sure what it was. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Charlie, I looked and neither tab is touching the frame. I did a little wrenching to see if I could find any broken/loose bolts, nuts, or screws. The only thing that seemed a little loose were the rear fairing screws under the seat, which I don't think would explain the vibes I feel in the foot pegs. With the fairing off, I could look at the rear (tire side) of the ISOs and on the left side it seems that it doesn't set flush against the motor/swing-arm mount; I'd guess 1/32" gap. On the right iso, I can't see much of a gap on the rear side, but it doesn't look like it is pressed against the motor mount as when looking from the engine (front) side of the iso. Here are some pix: Left iso viewing from tire side:  Right iso viewing from tire side:  What is the torque value on the iso bolts? If they are not tight enough, would that explain the gap or does the gap matter? Are the tabs positioned in the right place, meaning do they appear to have been installed correctly? Also, I noticed that my shock has begun to leak. Any chance that could be the culprit for the bad vibes? Thanks for all the help! | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
It's hard to tell from the pic., but you shouldn't have a gap. Call Al at American Sport Bike, he will have all your answers. Also ask about position of the tabs(I know I read it somewhere) That tab on right side looks so close, check it with your weight on bike.Put some heavy paper between gap and with your weight on it, see if it will pull out. I can't see the shock causing the vibs. | ||
| Hootowl |
The front isolator needs to be installed the right way up. The motor sits on the mount on HD bikes, but is suspended from the mount on Buells. To make the mount experience the same load in the same way, it has to be installed upside down (in relation to the way it is installed on a HD). The HD tech installed it in the orientation he is used to installing it. The mount has probably been ruined over the past 6000 miles, and is now causing your vibration issue. Get another one from Al. Do yourself a favor this time and install it yourself. Not difficult. There are instructions in the bag. | ||
| Alfau |
The replacement front isolator should be installed with the flat side to the top. Determine if tube frame steering head is notched or unnotched. For "notched frames" install isolator on top of frame. For "unnoched frames" install isolator from under the frame. "Rear Isolators". 1/32" gap.Roll pin could be the reason. Measure isolator roll pin protrusion on both left and right isolator mounts. Roll pin should not protrude more than 0.120 in. (3mm). If roll pin protrudes more than 0.120 in. (3 mm) file or grind until within specification; 0.080-0.120 in. (2.032- 3.048 mm). {What is the torque value on the iso bolts?} Main isolator bolt : 63-70 ft-lbs. outboard isolator bolts 35-37 ft-lbs. The Showa shock needs to be Replaced/ repaired before the oil greases up your back tire. As it continues to loose oil the bike will start to pogo dangerously. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Al, Can the pin be measured w/out removing anything? I assume you're saying that the iso can't sit flush because the pin may be too long. Thanks for your help! | ||
| Alfau |
Your pics are not too good, Can't see the gap your on about; Might be nothing! Post another/ better pic! The Measure isolator roll pin protrusion is done during assembly. Have you got a manual/pdf manual? | ||
| Jim2 |
Question for you Stacey (Bikerrides). Is your profile picture after the front iso install? How close is the rear header pipe to your frame? Looks real close to me. Asking because I just met a guy with an M2 and his header was almost hitting the frame and it just didn't make sense to me. Then it occurred to me that his front iso was installed upside down. I think upside down vs. right side up does make a difference in the height of the engine to the frame. I can put my finger between my header pipe and my frame (as long as the header is not still hot). Nice looking Buell. I love arrest me red. | ||
| Oldog |
Front Iso, where is the D washer? is there a fail safe molded in now? it looks ok. Rear iso right side may need replacing it appears to be cracked, I cant see the left side well enough to tell. rear isos sit almost perfectly flat on mount block, ( sheet of paper ) I can see a gap matter of fact they set on the end of the swing arm bearing support pins which are machined flat 1/32" = .0315" .12" ~ 1/8" If the roll pin sticks out enough to catch the iso but not bottom and hold off you are good. follow the procedure for the washer and bolt remember to watch for twisting the elastics. (Message edited by oldog on January 03, 2013) | ||
| Hootowl |
Stacey, you really need to get that mount installed correctly. The nut holding your motor up isn't pushing down on the metal part of the mount, it's on the wrong end, mashing down on rubber. The rears look fine. I have NEVER seen a set of the new type rear isolators fail. If someone has a failed set, I'd love to see a picture. Don't confuse cracked coating on the rubber for a tear in the rubber. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Is the rubber on the rear isos from asb that I just installed harder than the originals from 1999? If so, might that explain more vibrations. However, that doesn't explain why it was initially smoother than before the install for about the first 200 miles of riding after the install. I have read several threads on here about isos w/harder rubber being more reliable but also vibrate more. Any thoughts or info on that? | ||
| Marine_wolf2003 |
I have been chasing vibe issues to i hope to find someone with knowledge close to me so they can take a peek. i changed the front iso i have back isos but mine dont look bad and i still have a crap ton of vibes | ||
| Kalali |
The front ISO looks like the new version and appears to be installed properly for the model. According to the instructions the X1 requires the mount installed on top as compared to S2, e.g., notched vs. unnotched, etc. The only questionable item is the location of the large washer. By the way, the new front ISO has no so called D-washer. | ||
| Hootowl |
It is NOT installed correctly. The only part that is installed correctly is the washer (and the bolts, I suppose), which is supposed to act as a bump stop for the mount against the engine bracket. The mount is installed upside down. I wouldn't ride it in that condition. The D washer is integrated in the new mount. You can see it above the fender washer and engine bracket. That is supposed to be on top, with the weight of the engine hanging from it via the bolt going through the mount. If the rubber fails, it will keep the engine from dropping. The way it is installed, if the rubber tears, the engine will fall out. The nut holding the weight of your engine isn't sitting on the integrated D washer like it is supposed to.  Get a new isolator installed correctly (have the dealer fix their mistake) and your vibration issues will likely go away. The new rear isolators are thicker, and do allow more vibration to get through, but not a significant amount. | ||
| Hootowl |
Note that the integrated D washer is not D shaped, we're just still using the same name for it. | ||
| Bikerrides |
New front iso is on the way from asb. I will contact Al for clear installation instructions, since there seems to be some debate on the issue. If it is indeed upside down, I will have to try to get HD to re-install the new one correctly at no charge. We'll see how that goes.  | ||
| Lakes |
Just like to say, i have the new style ISO front, but i did not feel safe useing the small bolt it came with. so drilled out ISO put the old style size bolt. later on i got a Stenzel Bar & needed a slightly longer bolt, so used Alen head same grade same size as stock old style bolt. & the Stenzel bar made a noticible difference as stops forward to rear movement. bike handles a lot better too. i road a friend Thunderbolt & my M2 felt smoother handled better too i could not wait to get back on my M2 ( we were on a ride swaped bikes to see difference ) but that Thunderbolt used M2 flyscreen & bars. just vibrated more than mine. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Where can I get a stenzel bar? Had thought of adding one and it might be a good time while I've got the thing apart anyway. | ||
| Hootowl |
Here are the installation instructions. Yours is in upside down.  Lakes, regarding the Stentzel bar, I found this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/692938.html?1347396576 with pictures of the bar installed. The mount pictured there is upside down too. Not sure who's bike that is. I don't think it's Rick's. | ||
| Jim2 |
Good info. I wonder which model frames are notched or un-notched and if it was consistent throughout the production runs. | ||
| Buellistic |
How could a FACTORY TRAINED technician do that ??? That is why "i" read my SERVICE MANUAL and look at the PICTURES in it, "PLUS" look at the EXPLODED VIEWS in my PARTS BOOK doing my own work !!! | ||
| Alfau |
The new and improved front isolator has made in China stamped on it.lol (reminder) don't forget to ask Al from American Sport Bike about drilling isolator. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Drilling the isolator reduces its mass, which changes its characteristics. If the loose fit of the mounting bolt bothers you, get a big bolt and cut the diameter of the tip down and re-thread it so it fits the new nut. It's simple lathe work. Don't put a sleeve over it, that's just one more thing to work loose over time and chafe. |
