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Bikerrides
Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2012 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic, I don't understand your last post about a smaller bolt.
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2012 - 02:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stacey, PM me and I'll forward you the instructions I have. Yes, you need a torque wrench to work on these. The torque specs are in the instructions. I just use the cheap torque wrenches from Harbor Freight Tools (if you have access to one). You can find coupons in the MC mags that make them even cheaper.
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2012 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mmmm....sandwich....
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Bikerrides
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What would be the best cleaner to use on the blue wheels on my bike? See pictures above. I have simple green, purple power, windex, etc. I just want to make sure I don't mess up the finish.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@ bikerride, dynamite, yep dynamite will work good............
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Bikerrides
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New front iso made a world of difference, especially below 3K rpm.

Cleaned the wheels w/simple green and they look great!

I took the bike to show it to a friend of mine that rides a Ninja 650. He was impressed w/it, especially how clean it is for a '99. We were talking about riding and all the stuff that I need to get in the way of apparel. He handed me his mesh coat and said to try it on. It was too small, so he reached in his closet and pulled out a black XL Joe Rocket mesh jacket and said to try it on. It fit perfectly, so he just gave it to me! Pulled the liner outa the closet, too. He said it was too big for him after dropping a few lbs; he had already tried to give it to someone else, but it was too big for him, too.

I tried to pay him, but he wouldn't even take $20. So, I left there w/a $150-$200 jacket w/elbow, shoulder, and back pads. It was my lucky day.

Was going to have to put some apparel on hold after paying for a 5K mile service and the iso install today when I picked my bike up. Now I don't have to wait on such an important piece of riding gear. It's wild what the biker brotherhood will sometimes do for each other.

I'm gonna take the bike out for a 175 mile trip tomorrow to show it to my bro who's dying to see it. Can't wait to see his face!
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Hogluvr
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome!! Love to see the enjoyment these bikes bring to people. Enjoy your ride, itching for a ride here in Ohio!
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You understand the bolt size post now that you got it apart? You've removed a larger bolt than comes with the upgrade kit; the large bolt fits the hole in the motor mount without side play, and there have been cases of motor mount failure with the smaller bolt rattling about in the larger hole. Some have drilled the rubber isolator to allow the old bolt to be used; I do not think this is wise as the rubber needs to be the size it is to properly support the weight of the motor. If mine ever fails (I used the bolt in the kit) I'll take a lathe to a large bolt and cut the diameter of the inserted part down and then re-thread it to take the old nut. The thick washer with the flat side has to come out and be replaced by a smaller round one. It sure is nice to be able to tell how many headlights are on the vehicle behind me by looking in the mirrors. Couldn't before I installed the new front iso.

(Message edited by harleyelf on March 10, 2012)
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Bikerrides
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Havin' a scotch and grilln' some chicken now after a 190+ mile ride. Went to my home town and met my bro at our favorite Mexican joint for lunch. Man, he really wishes he had another bike now! He loved the Buelligan and was really impressed when he went up the road on it!

Have I mentioned before that I love my Buell?

The bike rode and performed flawlessly. Before the ride, I put the big lids on the saddlebags and was going to change them back when I got home, but one of the bags won't open; the latch won't release.

Has anyone else had this problem and how do I get the saddlebag open now w/out destroying the latch or anything else?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know the answer to your lid issue.

However, I am so happy for you. Glad you are feeling the "soul" that I mentioned.
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Essmjay
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There has not been a single instance of failure using the smaller bolt that comes with the new kit. It just isn't a problem. Prove me wrong.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been reading a lot on here about various service bulletins in addition to the various recalls. Will HD still honor them? In some cases the bulletin may be 10yrs old.

For example, I think I have the early Showa shock, not the K1400 that solved the problems. It doesn't have the SRP either. I know there was a recall on the shock at one time, but my VIN shows that all recall work has been done. I thought I read that there was a service bulletin issued on the early Showa that would result in a K1400 replacement. Is this true?

Also, I probably need new rocker box gaskets and I believe there was once a bulletin issued on those as well.

I'd like to get my bike as safe and reliable as possible, but that would cost a small fortune unless I can take advantage of some the bulletins issued back in the day.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thought I'd mention this too, since my post last night.

After having my local HD dealership do a 5000 mi service on Saturday, it seems that the shifting is a bit more clunky, especially from 2nd to 1st or from N to 1st. I'm also having to shift up slower and more deliberately than before to give the clutch time to fully disengage (I guess that would be it) so I don't hear the gears so much.

Any thoughts? Would the clutch just need adjusting? Is that something I can do myself? I know I used to do it all the time on my RM 125 back in the day. Never worked on a HD engine before.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They probably set the primary chain tension too tight, and may not have used Formula+ (full synthetic).

Readjust the primary chain tension first. If it's still worse, drain their transmission oil and put in Formula+.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for your copy ...
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Bikerrides
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, how do I need to approach the service tech on re-adjusting the primary chain, since that was part of the 5000 mi service. I paid for synthetic fluids, so I assume they were used.
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"how do I get the saddlebag open now w/out destroying the latch or anything else?"

Drill 3/16 hole right here.




Use stiff wire or small screwdriver to trip the bellcrank, now when it rains your bag will leak like a sieve so now off to the dealer and have them order 2 of the updated latches that have the thicker pot metal lever that trips the bellcrank.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First thing the tech. is going to say is it was adjusted per the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL EVEN IF THE MANUAL IS
WRONG" !!!

If know how loose the DRIVE BELT is if correctly adjusted, well you will find that is adjusted TOO TIGHT also ...

Get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL
and learn to be a MECHANIC(not a technician) !!!

Both of these if incorrectly adjusted it will adversely affect the shifting,clutch,bearings in the transmission, motor sprocket oil seal, and rear wheel bearings ...
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Bikerrides
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

James, how much are the latches and can they be keyed to match the current ones?

Buellistic, can the primary be adjusted w/out losing the fluids? Will the clunky shifting ease off w/a little riding? Obviously, I don't unnecessary wear on the drivetrain.
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You use your old lock set, four years ago about $26.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Worked like a charm, James. Didn't even have to use a nail. When the bit went through, it hit the bell crank and triggered the latch.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Primary can be adjusted without losing fluid. I use a (22mm?) wrench from an old Japanese bike's toolkit to loosen the lock nut. If you think it's too tight, just loosen it a sixth of a turn or so and see if performance improves. If you get it too loose, you'll hear it slap the case. If you don't hear it slap, it's not too loose yet. Have you checked the primary chain for uneven wear? Plugs out, inspection cover off, bike in high gear, raise rear wheel if convenient, roll rear wheel while checking play in primary chain. If it's got a tight spot and a 3/4" play spot without adjustment, it's worn out.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" run syn3 20W50 in my transmission and adjust the PRIMARY CHAIN at 3/4 inch on the chain tight spot ...

As of the last ride, the PRIMARY CHAIN has
111,049.7 miles on it ...
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M2marc
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ditch the "Harley tech". Most of the wrenching can be done with basic tools and the manual. Plus you get the satisfaction of working on your own bike. If you spend any time on here at all you will learn a wealth of info.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My service manual from asb is on the way.

I would like to take the tank bra off, but its been on there since 1999 and the finish is a little scuffed and stained underneath. Is there a good way to get that finish back so it'll match the rest of the tank? The bike is molten orange.
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the info Buellistic!
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bikerrides, Nufinish Scratch Doctor worked nicely for me when I took off the tank bra on my X1. You will probably have to apply it a few times to get it where you want it.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim,

I tried to take the bra off last week, but couldn't figure out where the front straps connect. Does the tank have to come completely off to remove the bra or is there something I'm missing as far as how/where the straps connect in the front? I don't want to cut the straps in case I need to put it back on.
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an X1, so I'm not sure how your tank mounts. Anyhoo.....

Just follow the straps. If they go under the tank, then you need to at least remove the mounting hardware.

I just cut the straps, as I would never have put the tank bra on in the first place.
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Bikerrides
Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, this is weird. Took the bike to HD and the tech loosened the primary slightly and adjusted the clutch based on how I described the change in shifting. Much better and it feels like it did prior.

So, I rode about 30 miles and parked in the yard. The bike sat for about 15 min and I started it and moved it to the back yard. It sat about another 15 min.

I started it to move it into my shed and stopped just before the door. It went dead and now won't stay running. It'll start and just go right back dead. I let it sit about 5 min and started it back up. I thought it might be OK, but after a few seconds, it went dead again. The more I start it, the shorter it runs.

What's going on?
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