| Author |
Message |
    
Willflyfor
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 10:20 am: | 
|
One take on it may be riding style, factors such as whether or not a person cruises regularly at the ~3K rpm range (my bike shakes alot more at 3K than it does at 4K) or whether the rider regularly hard accelerates or does wheelies. When I had my M2 I was hard on it and it did break a few studs. I'm not saying this is everything but if you drive your bike like a Hooligan (as I try to do it might require some extra wrench turning, however, of you ride your bike like a cruiser or a tourer, I'm guessing it will break less. As they say, "your mileage may vary" |
01x1buell
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 06:48 pm: |
|
well,yet again i hit some bullshit..I borrowed a stud remover from a mechanic at work,i got the stud half way out with a little bit of resistance not much and then it freakin broke,  so i now am going to borrow/ buy i jims jig to remove the rest of stud.. ohh and it is the rear head again the first stud i had break was also the rear. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 06:58 pm: |
|
Were you working it out like a tap? Half a turn out, a quarter turn back in, lubricate, repeat.
Is it broken off at the surface or is it still sticking out a few turns? This would be a good time to weld a nut on if you can. Drilling it out means grinding it flat first so the drill (left twist if you can get one) gets a good bite only on the stud and not its threads. |
01x1buell
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 07:01 pm: |
|
well i am going to buy the jims toll so it says it comes with a bit. and it is almost broken off flat. oh well i have plenty of time to fix it. |
Willflyfor
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 11:46 pm: |
|
Ouch, for my edification, what type of stud extractor did you use? |
01x1buell
| | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 05:10 am: |
|
I used the one that looks like a socket. |
Davefl
| | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 08:27 am: |
|
When you use the Jims tool go really slow.. Drill a little bit- pull bit out and blow out the hole and repeat.. if your lucky the treads of the stud will still be in the hole. then a clean out tap will remove them leaving clean treads in the head.. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 10:19 am: |
|
Last time we did my front stud it took over 2 hours of drilling grinding to get it out. It was not fun and it being the 3rd time i had to fix it i was done with it. If you really want to screw it up...DO NOT USE AN EASY OUT!!!
I have even used a helicoil to fix the heads threads before. I also went with a full D&D exhaust system because at any time you can just take off any part of the exhaust system without removing any other parts off the bike to get it off. It is so nice not having to remove half the bike to get this exhaust off. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 10:21 am: |
|
Davefl:
Thanks for tool how-to as "i" will add it to my HELP "INFO" on the tool ...
It is hard to give help "INFO" when you have never had to use this tool... |
01x1buell
| | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 - 05:54 pm: |
|
tap size needed for stud is that 5/16 by 18 or 20?? |
1313
| | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2011 - 06:55 pm: |
|
tap size needed for stud is that 5/16 by 18 or 20??
Depends which side of the stud...
The side out in the open air - that the huts attach to - is fine threaded (5/16 by 24). The side going into the head is coarse thread. Coarse thread for 5/16 is 18, typically.
HTH,
1313 |
01x1buell
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 05:17 pm: |
|
thank you |
