| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
i need to remove a stud, it is not broken off . so what is the best way to do this, i looked in the manual and there was no mention of studs in the exhaust section. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Grip with two nuts torqued into each other. Use liberal amount of WD-40 or Tap Magic. Heat surrounding area lightly if necessary. | ||
| Analbeard |
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-ex haust/217981-how-remove-exhaust-manifold-studs.htm l Seems sensible | ||
| 01x1buell |
thanks i will try that right now. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Nice pictures on the retired bum's link. Welcome, Analbeard! | ||
| Buellistic |
01x1BUELL: You have mail !!! | ||
| Buellistic |
BROKEN EXHAUST STUD REMOVAL Class 101, just PM me for your copy ... | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
If the stud is not broken off, just put two nuts on the stud and tighten them together. Then put the wrench on the bottom one to remove the stud. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well when i was taking off the exhaust ( couple weeks ago) the nut was al most off when it became very tight and when i had gotten the nut off the threads where all gnarled up ,,so i do not think that the two nut method will work this time. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If you have good threads down close to the head you can run a die over the damaged threads and then the nuts will go down to the good threads. Like tapping a hole - half a turn down, a quarter turn back. Use Tap Magic. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If there are no usable threads you can file two flats opposite one another so your vise-grips can get a grip. Rotate only, no back and forth motion or it will snap off. | ||
| Preybird1 |
If it's not broken why are you replacing it? I have broken so many of those cheap hd studs that i went extreme and removed the heads and had them drilled and tapped for 10mm studs grade 8 studs.     I have no problems anymore with these beefy studs!! I got rid of as much of the HD parts off the bike that i could and replaced it all with expensive aftermarket parts. I only us HD parts if i have no other option. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've done the double nut thing successfully in the past. You could weld a nut onto it as well. | ||
| Harleyelf |
His issue is damaged threads. Using a higher quality stud to replace the soft one is a good idea. Welding a nut on is a great way to get a grip on it, too, and cheaper than buying a die to chase the threads with so nuts can get to the good threads. If you already have a welder. (Message edited by harleyelf on December 18, 2011) | ||
| 01x1buell |
Well I do not have a welder as of now but I will soon | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
You could use a stud remover to remove the stud. I bought one at HF for just a few bucks and it works fine. They are good for removing studs that are damaged but I prefer the double-nut method on good ones because the stud remover can munch the threads when it grips the stud. In your case, it might be a good approach because the threads on your stud are already damaged and you will replace it anyway. | ||
| Buellistic |
It is unbelievable how much trouble you BUELLers have with these OEM "STUDS" ??? Have a 110,772.1 miles on my 1997 S3T and have never broken a OEM "STUD" !!! PROPER ASSEMBLY IS THE ANSWER !!! EXHAUST ASSEMBLY Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| 01x1buell |
well when the head was off earlier in the year for the broken stud extraction and new gaskets i assume the person who installed the exhaust again screwed up the threads cause the system has not been off since then .!!!!! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I'm not sure why this is but some bikes just seem to shed exhaust parts more than others. Mine lost a nut once when it was less than a year old but never broke a stud in 85+K miles. Perhaps a tolerance stacking issue in manufacturing? | ||
| Buellistic |
Any time you take an exhaust system apart if it was not properly assembled with anti-size compound on the threads you should use PB BLASTER(buy at Wal-Mart)on all threads after soaking overnight ... It is also a good idea to clean up the threads(studs, nuts,and bolts) ... The first things "i" did after picking up my bike new from the DEALER was to correctly set the timing, adjust the primary chain, and adjust the drive belt and yes "i" know not everyone knows how ... That is why we have www.BadWeatherBikers.com ... "i" will share any information that "i" have if you want it ... | ||
| Willflyfor |
01x1buell, you need a "roller type" extractor if you want to get the upper studs off. The old school cam type extractors are too big to fit in the space where the upper studs are. Here is one brand: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SR102-5- 16/5-16-STUD-REMOVER-3-8-DRIVE/ A little pricey but the stud will be extracted with an EQUAL twisting moment applied to it, although the fluted type extractors do the same thing, a roller type will grip like nobody's business. That or get a welder  (Message edited by Willflyfor on December 19, 2011) | ||
| Buellistic |
Any body know what a reverse flute drill bit is and how to use it ??? (Message edited by buellistic on December 20, 2011) | ||
| Harleyelf |
Sure, it's a left-hand twist drill bit which is used with a reversing drill to make the guide hole for an easy-out screw extractor. On a good day, the torque from the bit will make the stud spin out of its threaded hole. What does this have to do with Neil's stud? It's not broken, it just has rounded threads from a nut backing off enough to shake with engine vibration. All he has to do is grip the stud, lube the threads, back it out, and install a better stud. | ||
| Mbsween |
Can you replace the studs, assuming they come out with a hex head bolt? Certainly be easier to install on the back cylinder under the O2 sensor. I've done this on kawasakis, but never the Buell. Just wondering. My X1 has ~50k, I've never broken a stud, but I have had one fall out on a long (2000 mile ) ride. | ||
| Harleyelf |
You can, but it is risky. If the bolt wiggles a little bit or the gasket compresses down a little bit, your bolt can mess up the threads. That's a thin-wall threaded hole and you can't use a bigger bolt. If you mess up the threads in the head, the only correct way to repair them is to fill the hole with weld and re-drill and re-tap. | ||
| 01x1buell |
that link that Willflyfor put up looks alright maybe i will order that, and it is a good thing to have in my tool collection, and i have a bit of time before i need to put the exhaust back on ( getting it ceramic coated) but do not know what color yet. | ||
| Harleyelf |
When you do, be sure to re-tighten the exhaust nuts after 100 miles or so. Yours wouldn't have chewed their threads if they had been on tight. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well the funny thing is that once i got the bike back i did tighten the nuts,so i do not know how the threads where all screwed up at the end. | ||
| Harleyelf |
The gasket is a woven stainless steel mesh. It compacts under use, allowing vibration to move the header back and forth and in and out of its port. You have to re-tighten the nuts a few times every time the gaskets are changed. Shops never tell owners stuff like that. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Once the exhaust gasket is blown even a tiny bit the nuts will loosen themselves up real quick.I know buellistic says a properly installed exhaust solves this problem.....Wrong some bikes vibrate more than others. I have tried 3 different mufflers and 3 different headers and still had this problem so i know it was not installed wrong. I even had JTSperfomance install the exhaust system after they dynoed the bike and it blew the front gasket out and snapped off a stud. o.e.m. studs are garbage i would never even consider buying that garbage again. |
