| Author | Message | ||
     Mtndude |
Limited Instructions that came with the Forcewinder kit assume I know what I'm doing and I don't. Quest 1  o you just tie in the two hoses from each cyl head and run into the filter? Quest. 2: Where is the best location for filter? Is this right? Quest 3: What is that small hose near carb and where does it go- just leave loose?  | ||
| Blake |
That little hose looks like your idle adjuster cable cover. No? | ||
| Captainkirk |
Could the little hose be going to your VOES? | ||
| Mtndude |
Re: Little hose: I tried to trace it and I think it comes out of the bottom of the carb, loops up and over between the cylinders and then down towards the air intake. Some kind of breather/vent? | ||
| Mtndude |
Re: Little hose. It was connected to a little barb on the old airbox back plate. It just dead ended there. The barb just secured it in place. | ||
| Kilroy |
I would move your breather filter a little farther from your back tire in case it pukes while you are in a spirited right hander | ||
| 4dwuds |
Is the the little hose from the float bowl ?. If so then it is a overflow/breather for the carb, It's fine where ever you put it, Just don't plug it off. | ||
| Skntpig |
I did my breather almost like that... but improved it. Where the filter currently is in pic #3 I put another hose T from the hardware store. On the top side I put 4-6 inches of hose and mounted that filter on top. It doesn't really matter how long, just make it somewhere out of the way and up higher. Mines actually zip tied on the frame going up. On the bottom side of the new T I ran it down with a longer clear hose on it. Just make sure it's out of the way of your belt/sprocket. On the bottom end I put a hose barb with a threaded end on it. It's my cheap catch can. You don't get puke out of the filter, but it still breathes. The puke hits the end of the T, condenses and falls into the clear line. Just watch the level and empty every few rides. Cheapo clear catch can. | ||
| Skntpig |
Oh yeah. On pic #2 I would take that T and spin it clockwise so each hose moves one space. Your frame is going downhill and so will the spooge. The front one will go straight through the T to the back of the bike. You might have to cut some off the front hose. This way you will have it all going downhill vs. having the dip and coming back up where the front breather meets the T. It will look cleaner. Your T will be upside down vs. on it's side. Hope that makes sense. | ||
| Jayvee |
Might can rotate the K&N clamp so that the worm drive is on the inside? Less conspicuous, or dare I say looks "cleaner"? | ||
| Skntpig |
Jayvee, I can see you're alot like me. You see very few zip ties on my bike. There's a ton...but they're all hidden unless it's totally necessary to have one in view. Clean FTW | ||
| Mtndude |
Thanks for all this help. Will make these changes tonight. Appreciate it. Also going to spend the eve cleaning ss headers with Eagle1 and steel wool. Fun times. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've heard using steel wool on the headers will make them more susceptible to rust. Better to sand them. I did it on the tuber, and it looked great. If that is where I think it is, your right leg will smell like partially burnt gas and your pants may gradually accumulate oil stains. That may or may not be a bad thing to you, but be aware of it. It got tedious for me commuting to work in dockers and sitting in meeting rooms. | ||
| Bigslug |
Mtn, it looks like your carb mounting bracket is not installed. Without it nothing is holding the carb on other than the seal on the intake. It goes between the carb and Forcewinder, and is held to the motor by the breather fittings. If you are aware of this, please disregard this post | ||
| Mtndude |
Yeah, several folks who posted said they left it off for astectics, so I left it off, but I'm re-thinking that decision. I'd like to look into ss braided breather hoses. Not sure how rubber will handle the heat off the manifold. | ||
| Mtndude |
Fuzzy pic but maybe you can see- I rotated the T and installed a catch can using another tee, 2" of tube and a plug. Put it so the tee faces down about 5" before the filter cap end. Test drove about 30 mi and all seems good. Weird to her air suck through the K&N now on acceleration. Wondering if I really need to re-jet-? Thanks everyone, for your help!  | ||
| Ratbuell |
DO NOT leave the carb bracket off. Without it, the ONLY thing holding your carb on the engine is happy thoughts, and a rubber boot. If you want it to "look good", get it chromed or powdercoated. Otherwise, you're gonna end up wondering "what clunked into my right knee immediately before my bike died?". BEST case, you'll only get an intake leak and it'll run like crap. Put the bracket where it belongs. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Rat said. I'm going to lecture you here.. MANY of us have been down this road many times in the past. We have been doing the tuber thing for YEARS and have already been through the learning curve. Listen and learn. PUT THE FRIGGIN BRACKET BACK ON! Yes, it's that simple. It is not save to ride the bike without it. If the carb comes out of the boot just a little and cocks forward, your throttle can stick. Good luck with that when you are on the highway.. (Message edited by bluzm2 on July 02, 2009) | ||
| Mtndude |
BRACKET IS BACK ON  Thanks, guys. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, That's good! As you've probably heard or read, the real way to take care of the breather issue is to replace the rocker box covers with the XB version. Not very expensive and REALLY works well. On another note, if you are serious about polishing your header, I may have a better way. There is a place in St. Paul that does chemical polishing for stainless steel parts. The process is normally used for medical instrements and food processing compnents. I recently had some parts "dechromed", the did a FANTASTIC job. They will do a header for $110, they come out almost mirror like. This winter I will have the race heder for my S2 and M2 done. I've got the number somewhere, I'll post it if anyone is interested. Brad | ||
| Mtndude |
Previous bike was a Buell Blast that puked oil sometimes. I've had this M2 for a year and have taken care to NOT overfill oil. No puking so far. I'll search for the XB rocker cover swap and look into it. Would like to see a pic of your headers, and more info on that place. I'm in so CA so not sure if shipping would make it cost effective. It only took me about 30 min to get my manifolds looking nice again. Not as pretty as some pics I've seen posted, but I'm happy. I prefer the duller finish of SS, not shiny chrome-like. I just don't like the browning and pits, spots, etc. Used 220 sandpaper, scotchpad and mothers mag polish to get mine looking okay. Couldn't find Eagle 1 where I live. Bike seems to run great with Forcewinder-I installed only to keep my knee from fowling with the stock breadbox. Not looking for more performance. More power than I need compared to the Blast. (Holy Crap) Do I really need to re-jet, or do I risk damage if she runs more lean now? I put a Vance and Hines pipe on my Blast and was told I had to re-jet (so I did) but never felt any diff. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Your bike draws in a lot more air with the forcewinder, so will need to jetting done right to keep from running too lean and causing eventual problems. When I first put a k& n in my bike I had a huge hole around 4000-4500 rpms on up, bike didn't run right until rejet and pipe to even out the flow. Air is a bit thinner up here though, so maybe it was already running a bit lean. The force and the stock airbox have given me the best knee clearance. | ||
| Mtndude |
Okay. Thanks. I plan on keeping my stock pipe. Any suggestions on jet kit and sizes I need? 45/175 Dynojet? | ||
| Skntpig |
45/190 maybe 185. It might have the 190 in there stock. 2.5 turns out on the airscrew. | ||
| Nortnlvr |
Hmmm I installed the new forcewinder, no hoses?? Dumb as me, I put the high strength loctite on the threads, I'll probably never get them out now?? | ||
| Koz5150 |
FYI - Wish I could have told you this before you put the carb bracket back on. The Forcewinder intake has a small notch cut into the side where it meets with the carb. It is some sort of breather whole. If you look back in the archives here you can read how porting this whole (like it was originally done on early model Forcewinder) will get you a small HP improvement. Not sure if you think it is worth it, but I thought I would pass along the info. look here for more info http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/11192.html?1113852451 | ||
| John_s |
Maybe a little late to ask, but anyone ever run the fuel line outside the bracket? I powdercoated mine and it's tight. The protective sleeve is on there. I turned the 90o elbows up and ran the breather line up and under the tank to under the left side panel and stuck the filter on. Never had an issue and at least the oil's not back in to the air filter like stock (I installed Force Sidewinder) |
