| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
My crank seal is leaking whenever I ride more than about an hour. I WILL be getting a service manual and parts manual before I tackle this job, but I had a few questions the manuals won't help me with... What are the common parts I should replace while I've got the thing that torn apart? These are some I have read a little about, but would like more info: Replace the wavy clutch spring with more clutch disks and plates? Loose shift drum pins? The plate the shifter connects into? Starter gasket. Any others? Also... Probably a dumb question, but I just replaced the primary gasket 2 months ago. Do I need to replace it again? Or if I'm careful will it be fine to reuse? I've read that some people have made a special tool to set the crank seal. Anybody have a picture of one so I know what I need to make? I'm not in a rush to do this job, but my deadline is the Iron Butt ride at the end of June. Thanks in advance guys! | ||
| Djkaplan |
You'll need to buy, borrow, or fabricate a clutch spring compressor to get into the clutch. I'd have replaced the riveted plate already if I had one. If you're not having trouble with shifting, I wouldn't loosen the little shift plate thingy, but definitely inspect the detent plate pins and replace the little c-clip retainer doo-dad that keeps it on. I couldn't get my starter out to change the gasket without removing the entire exhaust system. Maybe it can be done, but I couldn't do it. "Any others?" I'd inspect the hell out of the stator while I was in there. Specifically check where the wire leads go into the windings. Make sure the little retaining plate isn't eating into the wire insulation, too. Keep track of exactly what you do when you change the crank seal because I'm going to pester the hell out of you when I do mine. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
Do you have to have the clutch spring compressor to inspect the detent plate? I'v have a 2nd gear problem and am finally ready to tear into it my self and look for problems. | ||
| Djkaplan |
You do not. This may interest you... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/264413.html?1173976448 | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Reading that made me think of a few things: Occasionaly I have a false first gear, and when the clutch gets half way out, it will clunk into real first gear, and hop off the line. If I don't want to do the clutch disks, do I still need the spring compressor to get to the crank seal? Can I reuse my almost new primary gasket? | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Occasionaly I have a false first gear, and when the clutch gets half way out, it will clunk into real first gear, and hop off the line." Then definitely readjust the plate thingy the shifter attaches to, following the factory specs, of course. "If I don't want to do the clutch disks, do I still need the spring compressor to get to the crank seal?" No, but you'll definitely need a lockbar. You got your lockbar at MBIV, didn't you? "Can I reuse my almost new primary gasket?" I did. No problems. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Oh, you'll also need to be able to torque the crank nut to 260-270 ft*lbs. Eat a big lunch, Mike. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Yes I got the lock bar from MB. LOL! 270 Ftlb's. Hmmmm, I'll need a LONG cheater bar for that one! Is it bad for ...everything... to use a impact gun to remove the bolt? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Don't use an impact on the crank nut. Lots of people have with no ill effects, but you could potentially get the crank halves out of alignment and break the rotor magnets loose. Printed right on the rotor it says "NO SHARP BLOWS". I'd heed that advice. The bolt is easy to loosen anyway. I didn't have a torque wrench that went up to 270ft*lbs so I supported the socket at the same height as the nut with a jackstand and stepped on an 18" breaker bar with my 175lb wet weight. I had to drink an entire 6 pack of beer and not pee to get to that weight. Don't do that, though... you'd have to drink a whole case. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The metal primary gasket can be reused two or three times, no problem. The paper ones cannot (I tried). You do not need the clutch spring compressor to replace the crank seal, the only reason you need that is to modify the actual clutch assembly. Check your little circlip for the detente plate while you are in there. And if you pull it, don't reuse it, put in a new one. That false first gear sounds like worn dogs. On a tuber pulling the tranny is not a big deal, and replacing the gear pair is doable in an evening, but it's lots of little pieces and easy to get yourself confused. Some tricky little spring clips and such as well... but it can be done in a garage with garage tools if you are careful and persistent. | ||
| Bomber |
Do NOT use an impact on the crank nut, as Mr Kaplan says -- good chance (like mebbe 30%) that you'll weaken the chemical bond between the rotor magnets and the rotor itself -- eating orka will definately kill the stator if you aren't in a position to buy the right torque wrench, and can't borrow one, I'd suggest renting it -- it will be extrememly difficult to balance properly after drinking and entire case of beer. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Actually you only need to go to 225ft/lbs on that crank nut ... This information I got from a Buell employee (I just did my crank seal on my M2 last week)... you will also need the driver to push that seal in place .. I don't think it can be done without. And as it was recommended to me by Danny Bilanksy, I would say to pick up some of the High Performace Sealant, Gray - pick it up at the dealer. It goes on the outer edge/surface where the seal mates to. (Message edited by tattoodnscrewd on May 17, 2007) | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can put in the seal without a tool if you machine a dowel rod with a lip of the right depth... but it's less reliable then using the real factory tool. Just don't seat it too deep, or the bearings will chew through it in 4326 miles. Or so I heard  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
So who's got one of these fancy seal tools that I can rent? | ||
| Hedcase |
You may also want to consider replacing the gear shifter seal in the primary cover. The gear shifter has sharp splines that may damage that seal during cover removal. If you change it, cut the corner off of a baggie and place that over the shifter splines to protect the new seal when installing the cover. Also, you can get the starter motor off without removing the the exhaust. It's a bit of a puzzle, though. (Message edited by Hedcase on May 17, 2007) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Actually you only need to go to 225ft/lbs on that crank nut ..." My nut is tight, but I feel fine. Oh, one more thing, the clutch nut is reversed... one of the few reverse threaded fasteners I've encountered in my mechanical noodlings (bicycle crank nuts, differential carrier ring gear nuts, semi-trailer wheels, worm gear steering box adjusting nut on GM vehicles... that's about it). | ||
| Cyclonemick |
Thanks for the link. I'm pretty sure my problem is 2nd gear dogs worn but I figured I would check the easiest thing out first(detenet plate) I tried to look at my manual but couldn't quite figure out exactly what I had to take apart so I could see it (detent plate). | ||
| Cyclonemick |
ALso to mention the fact I don't have alot of nice tools and no specialty ones, so I was kind of hesitant to tear into it and get myself in trouble. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"eating orka will definately kill the stator" I'm assuming you mean okra and not killer whales. You know how statistics can prove anything? Well, I did eat okra and my stator did die. I cannot disprove your assumption, sir.  | ||
| Bomber |
veggies, water-bourne mammals, it's all the same, yes? One of my favorite quotes from my favorite author (Mark Twain) agrees with you -- "Lies, damn lies, and statistics!" So far, we have data that indicates that, if you eat either Okra (known in India as "Lady Fingers") or Killer Whale Meat, you stand a 50% chance of your stator going south -- it's a frightening world we live in! | ||
| Mikef5000 |
A 2000 Sporty 1200 Crank shaft seal would be the same as my 2000 cyclone crank shaft seal correct? | ||
| Sanchez |
As long as you have the clutch out, I'd replace the detent plate and the circlip that holds it. It's only about $4 in parts, and it could save you a tow truck ride. It might even improve your shifting a bit. Here's a thread with some pics from my tear down: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/203866.html | ||
| Mikef5000 |
That's the link I was trying to find before I posted this thread! Thanks! I'll be out to pickup whatever parts I can this Sunday. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"A 2000 Sporty 1200 Crank shaft seal would be the same as my 2000 cyclone crank shaft seal correct?" That is correct, billboard molester. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
BWAHAHAHAHAHA | ||
| Captainkirk |
Definitely change the detent plate and the "e" clip. While you've got it apart, check your shift pins to see if any are backing out....now's the time to fix this. Set your shift pawl clearance per the MM and you will se a dramatic improvement in shifting ease along with the new detent plate.....trust me on this one. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Ok, because I am extremely impatient , AND because I'm half tempted to ride to deals gap next weekend, I tore into the primary today. I am very pleased with what I found! everything in there looks very good. I could not find signs of wear or fatige on ANYTHING! The detent plate looks brand new, the stator looks just fine. and all the other little moving parts appear to have no noticable wear. I'm off to the dealership to get the crank seal, E-clip, primary gasket, and fluid, and I hope to have this thing done by noon! Pictures: (maybe you can spot something I missed?)     | ||
| Mikef5000 |
And now I'm confused. The seal that's in there appears to be pressed in and isn't budging. How am I supposed to get it out? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Figured it out. All is good. Re-assembling primary now.... | ||
| Road_thing |
Bomber's right. This:  was followed closely by this:  Q.E.D. rt |
