| Author | Message | ||
     Captainkirk |
Apparently, the baffle inside my M2 race muffler has broken loose.....for some time I'd been noticing this funny rattling noise when it idled. Finally tracked it down to the race muff. I can knock on the outside of the can and hear the baffle rattling. It doesn't appear to be hurting anything (except my eardrums...OUCH!) but I'd like to fix it after I put the bike up for the season. Any advice? Where can I get those humongous pop rivets? And as long as she's opened, might as repack it. Any good source for packing? Thanks. | ||
| Xldevil |
Any advice? Where can I get those humongous pop rivets? And as long as she's opened, might as repack it. Any good source for packing? http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/ Ralph | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
You might find a surprise in there and stumble across a broken perforated tube, if it's rattling, repacking it may not solve it, but if your tube isn't broke or you have a replacement, the packing from American Sport Bike will come with the rivets you seek. enough for one end cap. (Message edited by tattoodnscrewd on September 27, 2006) | ||
| Rocketman |
I've spent the past two weeks fettling the Race Can. The perforated tube is loose in mine too. That's not all. After welding the inlet section twice in so many weeks all I can say is these are absolute rubbish. The problem is the environment for the Buell Race Kit system is too harsh for it to live in. This is because the quality and gauge of the stainless steel is too fragile. I thought I had the header \ muffler problem solved last year when I finally finished rebuilding the S1W, and put the system on using the upgrade 'Y' mount. I can't get the system to hang any better than it does now, but it's cracked the inlet to the muffler twice now this year all the same. I guess I should count myself lucky though. I haven't had a header mounting stud break since the rebuild. This is the second Race muffler I've had. This one's done about 8000 miles from new. The first one, which is some years ago, the perforated tube broke in that one too and wore a hole in the muffler. Don't hesitate to fix it. Those twin high level pipes on the Brutale are pure artwork. Rocket | ||
| Dave |
Mine has rattled when the packing went away. The ceramic packing from American Sport Bike is excellent stuff. Use aluminum pop rivets though instead of steel. DAve | ||
| Sloppy |
I've had my race muffler for 25,000 miles and I've never had any problems with it. I've gone through a Supercrapp and a Vance & Cheap in under 3,000 miles, but never a problem with the Buell race can. You'll need to use hardened steel drill bits to be able to get through the stainless rivets! Don't bother even trying with your standard set -- get cobalt or better. Use plenty of pressure or use a drill press. Remember you only have to open up one side! Go to the hardware store and buy aluminum rivets to replace the stainless ones. If you try to use the stainless one you'll need to get a pnuematic riveter -- again, since stainless is so hard. Repacking the race muffler is part of the PM for the race kit. After the first time, you'll be able to do it while you drain your primary and engine oil, about 30 minutes. You can use off the shelf repacking material at your local bike shop. Roll it up tight like a sleeping bag and use tape to keep it tight. The more compact the packing, the longer it will last. How long does it last, about 5,000 miles? But it's fast and easy work once you get it done the first time. And, when you first start your bike back up after a re-pack, make sure you take it out of the garage and into fresh air... (Message edited by sloppy on September 27, 2006) | ||
| Captainkirk |
Thanks for the advice. Hadn't thought about that last little item; taking it outside to fire it up. Muchas Glassy-ass! Will aluminum pop rivets hold up to the vibes? I'm sure that's why they use stainless at the factory? Also, is the perf tube attached to one particular end or the other? (as long as I'll be removing one end, I'd like to be sure it's the right one....) | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
The perf tube should be able to come free off either end. .. I just did mine a week ago, and one side was a bit tighter, but it slips over both ends .. It might be easier to remove the tail side I think, that way you can have the inlet side sitting on your bench when you slide the baffle/packing/tail back in - would be kinda hard to set the tail upright on the bench. At least that is what I thought when I did mine (I actually had both ends off - wanted to clean everything up nice) I just used the rivets that came with the packing from American Sport Bike, I was able to take both ends off because I had a week earlier -bought packing for my V&H, and it also came with the same rivets that the V&H does not need. Also - not only will it come with rivets, you will get the drill bit to drill out the old rivets as well. The stainless rivets aren't that hard to do - I used a hand rivet popper, and it worked just fine. (Message edited by tattoodnscrewd on September 28, 2006) | ||
| Rocketman |
Sloppy, can you please advise on how to repack my Termi's on my 916? Rocket | ||
| Sloppy |
Duc's sound so beautiful uncorked I wouldn't even put muffler on it. I saw Polen race at Laguna against Scott Russel and the sound of that Duc was like an Italian Supermodel unzipping her leather, skin tight, pants. Youch! I'm not familier with the construction on the Termi's, but the basic procedure would be the same for any glass pak. As for the Buell race can, the tube will come out on either side. Be ready for the surprise of the old glass pak though -- you'll wonder if it was ever packed before. As for the aluminum rivets holding up, I've had one or two come out due to working loose, but it's never a problem. There's something like 20 of them per side. | ||
| Tunes |
As you know, the inner baffle pipe just slides into both ends of the caps and the packing keeps it from rattling... I got tired of repacking the muffler every year, so I took solid copper wire and put three loops on each end of the baffle pipe. This causes a friction fit on each end. Copper, being softer than the stainless steel, does not damage the inner baffle or end-caps and seriously cuts down on the "Race Pipe Rattle." I used house wire (conduit)... I don't know what gauge it is though. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Good idea..thanks! |
