Author |
Message |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 04:49 pm: |
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I have had a vacuum leak on my 01 sport trac when you open the throttle the doors in the dash that control the AC and heat move when they are not supposed to. I presume vacuum leak, I figured I would replace the PCV valve and replace / mod that line to the intake the truck has Power brakes, any ideas on where to start the #@$%#@%^#$ valve is located in a bad place ( end of the valve cover facing the fire wall drivers side), any short cuts? any thoughts on what may be leaking? HAYNES manual = Toilet paper any one have a vacuum diagram for that year 2001 OHC v6? TIA Jim |
Crashcourse411
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 05:11 pm: |
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What its the pcode? Could need fasteners with new gaskets on the intake manifold. Common issue on that year v6 for the minivan, not sure what you have on the sport track |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 05:22 pm: |
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where do if find the p-code? |
Mcelhaney14
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 07:51 pm: |
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Do you have a check engine light on? If so, that would be where the p-code would come from. But I didn't see any mention of that. I'm not an expert in these cars but I would be checking for a stuck check valve. Since it happens only when you open the throttle, and thats when vacuum drops, I know older vehicles have check valves inline with the vacuum lines and these may be the same. Hope that helps. |
Kenm123t
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 08:01 pm: |
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check the vacuum canister they have a habit of cracking at the seam relocated and replaced all of them on my E series vans |
Nukeblue
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 08:14 pm: |
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look for a vacuum line coming through the firewall. those usually lead into the heater controls. follow it to the intake & check for condition |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 11:38 pm: |
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You didn't say if the engine is running okay.If it's running normally with no check engine codes then I would say not a vacuum leak, just a bad check valve in the lines going to the HVAC controls.Not sure about location but those things are usually in an accessible place under the hood. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 08:38 am: |
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Grif, idle is a tad rough, 178K miles ( needs plugs & possibly wires ) runs good other wise... no CEL the doors just redirect the air, and it does not cool very well I misunderstood about the P code and thought that you meant "production lot code" ( like a vin ) |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 08:47 am: |
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A lot of times the problem with the doors is debris. Mice nests, pine needles, dirt/crud. The vacuum hose can come loose on the actuator for the particular door. But if they are moving when they are not supposed to, the vacuum control switch can be leaking. First thing I would do is look for broken vacuum hoses, then pull the dash cover to get to the control switch. Often the multi hose switch connection can just come loose. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 09:05 am: |
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Loss of vacuum to other components when accelerating sounds like the vacuum canister is leaking to me too. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 02:43 pm: |
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Where is the canister? and what does it look like there is NO info on it in the manual that I have. the vacuum control switch can be leaking This would be the knob that selects where the air is to be discharged? ( floor, dash grill, defrost? ) Is the temperature control also vacuum? There are 2 lines that come around the engine beside the intake ( passenger side ) one is the PCV, I have a new valve and molded boot for that and I have to repair a line on that. there is another line I presume that it is a vacuum line I find a vacuum line going to the PB mastercyl, and a line that looks like it cones from the manifold going back some where, the truck has what looks like a map sensor fwd of the coil box drivers side. vacuum is used for HVAC controls, brakes, ?????? vac, check valves, and canister any pix? What do any of you know of the plastic manifolds used on these engines are the seals to the engine known to be a problem I have an AC problem ( blows cool but not as cold as I remember ) I figure just adding some gas is probably not a good idea, so I want to get the vacuum leak ( unfiltered air into engine fixed ) then fix the AC if needed. } (Message edited by oldog on July 22, 2013) |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 03:29 pm: |
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I don't know that they're a problem. They help reduce heat transfer from the block to the throttle body, and offer a weight savings. They're made out of an engineered plastic. Tough stuff. Dimensionally stable, can live in a corrosive atmosphere, high heat resistance. Same stuff is used for water pump housings too. http://www.cpchem.com/bl/rytonpps/en-us/Pages/defa ult.aspx |
Bandm
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 04:03 pm: |
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OD, Check your email for a PM. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 04:10 pm: |
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Bandm Please send to j b r y ant at tank fab dot com I have to purge the live addy again soon. |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 04:49 pm: |
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Bad check valve in the vacuum line that feeds the HVAC control system. |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 05:08 pm: |
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BTW...the check valve is built into the vacuum reservoir on the sportrac. Reservoir is located in front of right wheel well, below the air cleaner assembly. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 06:15 pm: |
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Reservoir is located in front of right wheel well, below the air cleaner assembly. Thank you SIR! I wonder if a separate valve can be put in the line to the cab controls. BTW mine is 2wd } |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 08:50 pm: |
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You could install an inline vacuum check valve, but you would have to get creative with vacuum hoses and reducers. The spaghetti hose is 1/8" and most inline valves have 3/16" or 1/4" nipples. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:14 pm: |
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spaghetti is the word the can is fine it has 2 connections, 1 from the manifold the other one goes into the fan box some how, there is a sticker that shows the emissions there are 2 separate lines that I have found that go to the fire wall, there is a small grey line that also goes to the fan box that was laying loose, but I cant find where it goes that is likely part of the problem. any other thoughts? |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:17 pm: |
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I have no drawings and no ideas where any thing goes..... haynes manuals suck It makes me appreciate the manuals that Buell wrote for their bikes, for the great job that they did.... |
Bandm
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 11:43 pm: |
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Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 08:35 am: |
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thanks I need to check in side as Vern suggested, there is one line that I cant find its tie in point, The reservoir is ok I repaired the PCV line where the elbow had collapsed |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 12:52 pm: |
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Keep in mind that if the check valve in the reservoir is bad, the vents will switch as vacuum bleeds off during times of low manifold vacuum. A leak will also cause this, but the most common thing I run into is bad check valves. |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 01:16 pm: |
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OK can the valves be had as loose items and placed in the feed lines as a test? |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 03:28 pm: |
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Yes, several vehicles use in line check valves. I am not sure if you will be able to just ask for one by name or if you will have to have a specific application. Off the top of my head, I know the 94 Dodge Ram with 5.2L engine uses one. Many cars and trucks built during the 90s used them, so you might get lucky and just be able to ask for the part by name. Just to be sure I understand your problem correctly, the vents work properly at idle or steady cruise, but shift under acceleration? |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 03:57 pm: |
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the vents work properly at idle or steady cruise, but shift under acceleration? Yes that is what it does, the "bottle" is not cracked and the lines ( stiff 1/8" plastic tubing ) looked ok I have a vacuum line hanging and I don't have a clue as to where or what it connects to, it goes into the dash in the fan box I am still looking.. I wanted to look at the dash controls too. but if I can get and connect a check valve into the supply or feed lines ( assuming the bottle is still good ) I may fix one problem... Thanks for all of the help so far to all who have contributed espec Bandm for the info you sent. } |
Etennuly
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 04:48 pm: |
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That hanging hose is possibly a vacuum source for one of the door actuators. Most use a dash pot diaphragm type vacuum motor. You can reach up in there and feel each one for a hose being attached. Try plugging the loose one to see what results you get. It may make all but one work properly. |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 07:01 pm: |
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Hey vern If I use my hand pump to vacuum the line ( while truck is running ) You think I can figure out where the thing goes.. I keep looking for a connection.. in the engine compartment the line is long enough to reach quite a way, Good idea to check for flow from all out lets the control is in the cab, and this line is in the engine compartment. |
Bandm
| Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:22 am: |
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Vehicles built before 10/4/00
Vehicles built from 10/4/00
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Etennuly
| Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:42 am: |
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Oh, sorry I thought the loose hose was in the cab. Is there vacuum on the hose when it is running? I usually take a hose that is loose, extend it to it's length and do an arc of how far and what it will reach. It's place of origin normally would be found within six inches of it's outer arc. Look for other loose hoses with a connector or T connector that is unplugged. Can you post a picture? Or Email one to me? |