| Author | Message | ||
     Thepod |
Do you think it is more than 500 deg Fahrenheit? | ||
| Swordsman |
For some reason I'm thinking it's high 300's- low 400's, but I have NOTHING to base that on. | ||
| Britchri10 |
The way the X1 cooks the underside of my right thigh, I reckon it could go to 400f. However, apart from the odor of grilling meat I have nothing specific to quantify this. | ||
| Hootowl |
Seems like I read on this board at one time that normal operating temperature is around 372 degrees. I could be wrong. | ||
| Blake |
Exhaust gas can be upwards of 1000oF. Where you are measuring temperature on the cylinder head makes a huge difference. It isn't anywhere near uniform. On the outside of the cylinder head, temperature may exceed 500oF in the area around the exhaust port on the rear cylinder. But the fan should prevent that. | ||
| Cowboy |
Dont know about the bikes, Bur cylinder head tempt. on the old gas powered helicopters always ran at 425. | ||
| Aptbldr |
Aircraft air-cooled CHT gauges read up to 600 degrees F. Usually monitoring from spark plug area. | ||
| Ourdee |
Fact: I've measured the header near the head (2" out), at 600f +/-1% with a ColeParmer infrared thermometer model# 39650-20. That is why the air sneaking out between the seat and tank feels so warm. | ||
| Teeps |
The fan on XB models comes on at 428F. That's measured at the crown of the combustion chamber. So 500F is not impossible. | ||
| Thepod |
The reason I ask is that I'm going to try to JB weld an exhaust stud back in. The threads are gone and I don't think a helicoil will work. Any suggestions on epoxy if JB weld is not up to snuff? | ||
| Pammy |
If you have the head off get it repaired properly(welded,drilled,tapped). Or buy another head. (Message edited by pammy on September 14, 2010) | ||
| Prowler |
Epoxy won't work in that application. A heli-coil should work fine (that's what they're made for.......) as long as there is room for the oversize threads in that area of the head. Just checked one of the heads we've got laying around here and I would try a heli-coil as there looks to be enough room to install one and you've got nothing to loose at this point. (Message edited by prowler on September 14, 2010) | ||
| Tepiddeath |
Keenserts work better than helicoils because they have 3 "prongs" that get hammered into place, grabbing the metal around it, creating a better hold into the metal. Keenserts have less chance of backing out than helicoils. | ||
| Pammy |
Whatever you decide to do, keep in mind, the hole has to be concentric(to its original position) to begin with or you are wasting your time. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Helicoil will work fine on that head. I have done it on my front head before i got sick of fixing broken studs. I just had bigger studs installed. I went to 10 mm. I haven't had any problems ever since. Next someone is going to say it was installed wrong and that is a bunch of schit. I have installed many different exhaust configurations and used "other badwebbers" advise and instruction on how to install them and they still broke and or worked loose. So i am not hearing anything about them being installed wrong! I have 3k on the new studs and no problems. For the long run it would be better to remove the head and have it repaired correctly. | ||
| Jramsey |
A quick easy fix would be to remove whats left of the existing threads with 5/16" drill and then tap it 3/8x16 then enlarge one hole on the exhaust flange. | ||
| Slaughter |
I'd done a whole set of exhaust threads using the Jim's fixture. Piece of cake. Don't even THINK of epoxy. Forget about it. NO resin system has even 10% of the strength you need at room temperature, let alone when hot. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Or send it to Pammy & Wes @ CycleRama.  | ||
| Dennis_c |
on the old tub frame heads you could drill the holes deeper and then retap them don't ask me how I know. | ||
| Xcephasx |
+1 slaughter. Don't try to drill anything without a Jims tool. Helicoil works fine if you can't re tap it. |
