| Author | Message | ||
     Eboos |
I have seen kits like this one http://www.revperf.com/xl.aspx offered, and I was wondering if anyone has used this or similar kits. What would be our best big inch (please refrain from the obvious jokes  ) option? The S&S long blocks seem way to pricey at close to $9000. Please post your thoughts on this. Also, does anyone know if http://www.stddevelopment.com/SCASES.HTML have the 91-present cases available yet? | ||
| Blake |
What are you trying to do? Go racing or get big power in a reliable street bike? | ||
| Court |
I'm after BIG RELIABLE power in a street bike. To that end I have an 88" S-2 being built by NRHS. I am major hyped, read about it and see the pictures, taken just this last week, HERE. 90" is a HUGE set of barrels. I stuck to 88", thinking I could maintain 15 hour a day-coast to coast reliability. S-2's are a hoot! | ||
| Tripp |
i have 4000+ problem free miles on my nrhs1250 kit and love it! this kit required no case boring and gave my bike plenty of bang for the buck. there are lots of people that post on badweb that have big bored their buells and generally no two are the same, there is lots of options out there. most important thing is like blake asked "what are you trying to do?", there's a bunch of different ways to step up the performance on your buell, you should consider having the heads ported and polished when you increase the cylinder size, this is something i regret not doing when i had my 1250 kit installed. anyway there are a lot of people here that have done it all, if you want a quick reliable street bike try a factory race kit to start (buell race ignition module, k&n filter and buell race exhaust or any decent slip on). there is a brag meeting tonight in your area (sheldon hd, auburn mass.), there is a fella named jay that works there and is a big buell enthusiast, he could give you some good info i'm sure, not to mention any number of folks that go there and post here as well. maybe i'll see you there it's at 7 oclock.  | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
We have installed a few ??? of them with very good results. We race with them without failure and they are great fun on the street. You must remember that case boring is needed, so complete engine tear down is neccesary. Other pieces (cams-headwork) should certainly considered when doing these kits, so they are not exactly inexpensive by the time you are done, but well worth it in my book. Roll on wheelies are one of the coolest things that come from a kit like this! I am a large believer in big bore with stock stroke and reliability over stroker type motors is one of its biggest pro's. Court is right, a 88" (or 90"  kit will treat you well for a long time, it is one of the most reliable ways of getting power. Revolution is a very good company to work with and have been long time sponsors of our race team and we owe a lot of our success to their company and their product. | ||
| Eboos |
Big power in a reliable street bike. | ||
| Blake |
Next questions: What is your budget and are you wanting to perform the work yourself or have an expert performance shop do the work? Are you wanting to emphasize peak HP while sacrificing some low end, or would you prefer a bike that pulls really hard way down low and through the mid-range but that sacrifices some top-end and peak HP? Or something in between? You can keep your stock carburetor and still get big fat mongo low end and mid-range, but it will limit your top end. From my recollection, for around $3K maybe a bit more, you can get cams, headwork, 1250 kit (cylinders, pistons, rings, gaskets), new pushrods, removeable pushrod covers, performance ignition control module (ICM) and a good solid reliable 100-110 RWHP. That includes the price of a new carburetor, whether Mikuni HSR42 or a Keihin CV44. You can save the cost of a new carb if you opt to forego the optimum peak HP. You can sell your old parts (cylinders, pistons, carburetor) on ebay and recover a couple hundred or more, depending on who is looking. Whatever you decide, be sure to include in your budget some funds for a good dyno-tuning session. "Revolution is a very good company to work with and have been long time sponsors of our race team and we owe a lot of our success to their company and their product." You'll be hard pressed to find a better endorsement than that. One really neat thing about Revolution Performance is their capability to perform stand alone engine dyno testing, so if you send them your engine (they even provide the crate), they can dyno test and tune it. Call the folks at Revolution Performance. They won't steer you wrong. | ||
| Eboos |
I would like to go for under 5K complete and ready to run. Peak HP isn't very important, I want it to run strong throughout the rpm range. The 1250 sounds good, but if for a few hundred more, I would like the 1430-1470 kit as long as it doesn't harm reliability or longevity. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
did someone say roll on wheelies?...my dreams have been answered. great post...i'm following this very closely jt | ||
| Blake |
It's a lot more than a few hundred more for an 88" or 90" job, the cases need to be bored to accept the significantly larger cylinder bore (diameter) and so you have all that engine disassembly/reassembly work, which isn't trivial. Revolution Performance works with Hobans for turnkey work like you are wanting. Cycle-Rama does turnkey work all the time. You will be very happy with what under $5K can get you in a 1250 kit from either of them. I suggest calling them both and talking to them about what you want and what they can provide. | ||
| Fusa21 |
I have had the same success with Revolution Performance, I bought the 3 13/16" bore kit from them this spring, and that made the power I needed. To bore the cylinders cost under $300 including lightening(not Lightning   ) and balancing the flywheels. Together that gave me a nice package. My next suggestion would also be to get the bigger carb/exhaust package to let it breath. Oh, and did I hear something mentioned about wheelies... Yeah another big bonus from the bore vs. Stroker, is the higher rev range. Giving you more powerband to use before having to grab another gear. And the lighter bottom-end makes for a snappy throttle response. | ||
| Xldevil |
Hi. Maybe this is worth to look at. http://www.sportster.org/tech/quad88/ Regards,Ralph | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
YES! I read that "quad 88" article before. Really REALLY careful build. | ||
| Tripp |
what a great story, sounds like a lot of fun taking a brand new bike apart! | ||
| Xldevil |
Know this one too? http://members.cox.net/2tiredhal/ Regards with lot of snow,Ralph | ||
| Ryker77 |
Eboos, have you ever ridden a modified Buell? Becuase its very easy to sit on the internet and dream build an engine that has way more power and cost more than you really need. I see that happen all the time on various car and bike chat boards. I suggest and I think most will agree. Is see if there are any local Buells in your area that have some real power. See if you can go for a ride. | ||
| Eboos |
No, I have not. It would be pretty safe to say that the first one I ride would be my own. Yes, I realize that it will be a bit scary at first, so was driving my Mach 1 for the first time. I am looking for 110-120 rwhp, I don't think that it is too out of my range. Whether or not I do go with these conversions is also irrelevant, at this point I am exploring options. I am wondering, for what purpose would you post this message? Are you inferring that I am a poseur because I have expressed interest in modifying my engine? There may be the possibility that I enjoy riding my bike, and might enjoy it more with more power, or simply commissioned it's modifications to meet my desires. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
i believe what he is saying is...try i before you buy it. may save you alot of money, may double the cost. before you sink 3 to 5 k into your ride, it would be nice to try one with the same mods. my opion, just go for it...i'm so freaking pissed it not my ride...  ride safe, JT | ||
| Ducxl |
I machined my own cases and assembled an S&S 89 inch kit in my old evo sportster myself.I won't waste space/w pics.But the thing always had a weak link.I sold it and bought engineered performance in a superbike996.I still buy and LOVE Buells (2) but have adjusted my expectations out of the aircooled engines' in them.Besides....Buells' are about handling,and make adequate power for their intended use.My point is,if you want big horsepower go buy a bike engineered with it.If you must have a big inch Buell,Rich Pilavin is right over in Pawtucket and is more than qualified at that task. | ||
| Ryker77 |
Eboos you can probably ride a bike better than me. I was not at all saying you riding limit is at the 90hp level. Just that I have owned and ridden a 1998 S1w with airfilter and exhuast and a 2002 x1 with stage 3 xb heads, force intake, force exhaust, n80 cam, CP domed pistons, HSR42 carb, twin tec igntion. I bought that bike used so I didn't drop the thousands of bucks in go faster parts. What I am getting at is the power is nice but I enjoyed my nearly stock s1w just as much as my current power beast. More power does not always = more fun. More power nearly all the time = lighter wallet. You just might be as happy with a bigger cam and good dyno tuning. For about 500 total bucks.. verse 4500. Just trying to save you some cash. or if you look around on the net you can normally find used bike that have allready been hotrodded. Buy a complete bike then sell you current bike. Only spend 1-2g. I think there is one on ebay right now | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yeah but it's not about just cost/benefit here. If that were the case, we would all go out and buy old $3000 literbikes. There's more like: Feeling of accomplishment in improving something you already like Making something you already own more unique Validation of self-worth after proving that you can build an engine that lasts If you want to look rich, you get a fatboy and put stupid chrome crap all over it. The mods decribed here are all internal and can't be detected by others so it would seem to be for the owner's own personal enjoyment. (also, now that it's winter it's more fun to talk about "powah" than to ride in snow/black ice) | ||
| Ducxl |
it's also fun to be able to maintain that "powah".And our winter is the perfect time for that too! | ||
| Eboos |
Oh, my bad. I guess I was just tired. Pretty much, I really would enjoy the improvement part. The extra power seems like a logical thing to do while I go about with fixing up the rest. Reliability and ridability are ultimatly more important to me, so I am not looking to build a race engine that would be not fun to either ride or own. You are probably right about the cost effectiveness part, I just want to avoid doing anything that I may not be satisfied with in a short amount of time. I figure... maybe you are right. As I am writing this, I am liking the idea of spending $500 a lot more then $5000. | ||
| Panic |
People aren't going to take you seriously when you say things like "as long as it doesn't harm reliability or longevity." | ||
| Eboos |
I must be loosing my street cred in this shizzle. | ||
| Panic |
I'm still mystified by continuous references to the 1250 cylinder as a "big bore kit". Is it better? Well, it saves a few pounds - if the plating stays on the walls. It's about $100.00 per horsepower (not counting labor, shipping, tax). I'd hardly call a +.0645" overbore (3.7% displacement increase) "big bore", since almost all of the power increase can be had with the same bore size on your stock cylinders with high-compression pistons for about 1/3 the price. | ||
| Tripp |
well, A.) big bore kit sounds cool, and #2 when i bought mine that's what they sold it as 1250 "big bore kit". i don't think the small displacement increase gives you a lot of power, maybe a few horses, but when you buy a kit like that it has the nice pistons and a .5 bump in compression, not to mention the increase in slickeryness from the nikasil coating. if your gonna bother with the cylinders 3.7% displacement increase is better than no increase and you don't have to bore the cases, bolt it on.  | ||
| Ezblast |
NHRS's 515 kit on my Blast made it a totally different creature, with the head work and gear, and B70 cam - geez - you would not believe the bikers I have suprised with this motor and the fun I have had with its power and launching ability - this bike is totally fun and the reason its taking me so long to step up - though the city X is looking good in Kick Ash - I'd be gaining 30 hp, 20ft-lbs and 100lbs weight in contrast to my current bike - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ryker77 |
plus when you go to a 1250 kit you have the option of domed pistons and compression ratio of your choice.. thats were the power is at. and for higher milage bikes its nearly just as cheap to get the 1250 kit as it is to buy new pistons and bore stock cylinders | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It sounds like the 1250 kit is the best route if you're about to take the top end down to "freshen it up" Those cylinders run cooler than the cast iron sleeve stockers. The 47cc size difference wouldn't be enough to make you have to rejet or install a different ECU. |
