| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
Firekiller, Is it possible you overfilled the gas tank? A gas tank overfilled with cold gas sitting over a hot engine can cause the gas to expand resulting in a flooded engine if the tank vent does not vent directly to the atmosphere. If you rode a short distance from the gas station to home, it's possible the bike flooded itself while parked at home. Also you might want to check that the tank vent works. Occasionally these things stick shut and, combined with the scenario above, could have contributed to your situation. Sparky | ||
| Chainsaw |
Brass Screws: Why do carbs have them? I'm asking 'cause I stripped one of the original screws on my Sporty's carb, and the only replacement I could find (damn metric stuff) was stainless steel. Not that I expect a single screw to cause a horrendous fire or anything, but there must be a reason for it. Anyone know for sure? | ||
| Firekiller |
You know Sparky, I think that is the only thing that I did not check on the initial round of trouble shooting. I'll get to that and let you know. Sam | ||
| Bomber |
Chain -- my guess would be that the brass won't gall in the aluminum body of the carb, nor corrode (much) either | ||
| Chopperboy |
Changed my Engine Temp. Sensor on my '02 S3T and all "Hot" start problems have disappeared. Also installed the XB rocker boxes and PCV's and an S3T fan kit over the weekend. The XB rocker boxes do not allow the use of the fan temp. sensor so I installed a manual switch mounted with velcro towards the front of the fan housing. This allows me to reach the switch easily when riding. Now all I need is some hot weather to test it out! The weather has been rather mild here in the Midwest. Todd | ||
| Chainsaw |
Thanks Bomber! Another Carb Question for ya'll: The Suspect 2001 Sportster 883, K&N, aftermarket slip-ons , rejeted carb, been set up like this for the past 2 years and 20k. Fresh plugs, gapped correctly. The Symptoms Backfire thru the carb, low speed, just off idle. Became apparent after returning from my last long road trip. I've read this is symptomatic of a lean condition. Remedies I've tried 1. Checked for intake leaks using the "spray carb cleaner/wd-40 around intake whilst idling" method. No change in idle speed. 2. Checked idle mixture. 3. Checked accelerator pump diaphram for cracks and such. Perfect shape. 4. Removed carb. Cleaned the slow and main jet, needle jet, needle jet holder, etc. Reinstalled carb. Problem persists. The next thing I'll try is to replace the seemingly ok intake gaskets. Is there something painfully obvious I'm missing? Enquiring minds want to know!  | ||
| Rick_a |
Listen for a pop...like an exhaust leak. I had something similar happen and it was a head gasket. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Would an exhaust leak cause a backfire thru the carb? | ||
| Blake |
No. Try the intake leak test at a fast idle, ~2,000 rpm, with warmed up engine? | ||
| Chainsaw |
Tried it on a warmed up engine, not at 2k. I'll give it a shot. | ||
| Fpatton |
To those who gave advice with my M2's stuttering, I installed the Pingel, and boy what a difference in overall responsiveness! No stuttering so far, but we'll wait and see. Draining the fuel tank was pretty interesting. It must have taken half an hour for a gallon and a half to drain out with the stock valve. I must say I was disappointed at what a flimsy part it was. The Pingel, on the other hand, was a beauty. (I took it into work to show some of our machinists, and they were very impressed.) I retested drainage with the Pingel installed, and the gas drained like it was being pumped out. Wow! While I was in there, I notice that what I assume was the rear temp sensor wire (white, coming out of the rear head) was not even connected. I hooked it back up. I don't know if that will make a difference or not. I can always disconnect again. Thanks! Fred | ||
| Joplin |
Heyall,,, I need some help here. I am at work and kinda need to know whats going on before I head out this afternoon. I have a 95 S2 with the stock 40 carb. It has not been ridden for ~ 1 yr. and I just rode it in to work today. I have started it and such during that year but had a bearing issue and a vin issue but now am good to go. But when I got to work (~4 miles ) there was gas flowing freely out if the overflow tube under the bike.it seemed to stop (gotta go verify,,hehe) as I stood there going ,,doh. It was delivered from High Country Harley Davidson/Buell on its side after having a bearing replaced in the case. And obviuosly there was gas leaking out that day. I had started it and rode it a couple of miles a couple of days ago with no such symptom. What can/should I check before I ride it again? THanks ,,,,,JM | ||
| Bomber |
it's likely a stuck float bowl (due to perhaps, crud in the carb?) . . . . if it doesn't flow when the petcokc's closed, that's prolly what it is . . . . start and ride it with the petcock closed, til it bogs for lack opf gas, then turn the petcock on for a bit . . .. . .it's a pain, but won't do damage as long as you shut the petcock off before the gas goes all over the hot header ;-} | ||
| Hootowl |
Sounds like a stuck needle. Clean out the needle/seat and float bowl. | ||
| Road_thing |
Yup. What they said. Stuck float valve. Sometimes a couple of semi-gentle raps on the float bowl with a hard object will solve the problem, but don't go banging on it hard enough to break anything. rt | ||
| Joplin |
right on fellas,,, I'll try all of the above on my way to aikido practise tonight. jm | ||
| Hootowl |
Damnit Bomber, you out-typed me! | ||
| Bomber |
hoot -- sorry bud -- chalk it up to my, er, ehem . . . .. . sorry hoot! | ||
| Anonymous |
Chiansaw, Solve the problem yet? Had the same problem, 97 S3. Idle screw fell out. Jeff | ||
| Dasbuell |
Let me guess... I think I can figure this out... anony's real name is Jeff! Was I right? If you are gonna let a bike set for more than a coupla three weeks and not used... you really need to put stabil in the gas. It will chemically stabilize the gas for up to a year. If you want to let it run from time to time to splash oil in the innerds... that is OK... but ya really gotta use stabil. If you drain it all (gas) there will still be some wet spots and such in the carb... and it can still dry out and gunk up the innerds and still be a problem. I can't say enough good about stabil and a battery tender for a bike that has to set. Yep... this is 20/20 hindsight... but one should only have to go through stuff like that once. I just got through rebuilding a IL4 carb set for a guy who bought it after the owner let it set for four years... it looked like some one did chem/bio experiments on the innerds of those carbs! (formerly dasxb9s - still a space cadet) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Dennis,ya mean if you can get them damn carbs apart after sitting that long.I just redid an extra set for my Turbo Seca and some of the smaller idle jets and such were a bear to clean and take apart. Ride the damn things,people!!!!!! | ||
| Oz666 |
Tip: For those really tiny jets and orifices, (no jokes now, kids) find some stranded electrical wire with strands a little smaller than the passage that is plugged or obstructed. Cut a piece about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long, separate the strands and form one end into a small "crank" shape. Use this to clear the passage. Don't use any individual piece for very long, the end will work harden. The reason for using copper wire (besides availability) is that it's soft enough that it will not scratch, damage or otherwise alter the passage; but still hard enough to clear out the foonge/crud in the passage. THIS MAY REQUIRE A LARGE AMOUNT OF PATIENCE. Procedure developed by working on an enormous number of small 2 stroke bikes over-wintered (or longer) WITHOUT the aforementioned gas additive(s). PITA, but it really works.  Oz | ||
| Rick_a |
Hey Fred, I went to Pingel after my petcock broke. The only downside is that you no longer get the 15 second warning before you run out of gas...she just altogether dies! | ||
| Weeds600 |
Hey yall I am a new 00s3 owner.I was told that a pc3 was needed to get the tuning down right(supertrapp,buell a/c),my concern is that dynojet discontinued this item.Is there another option or should I buy two of em?Hell should I sell it and get something else,it seems that everything is getting hard to find.Thanks | ||
| Rick_a |
I've seen some splice in modules that use manual screw adjustments to alter injector pulse widths. The names I can't recall...I believe Technolusion is one. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Solve the problem yet? Nope. It may very well be valve related. It started blowing smoke out of the rear cylinder exhaust. It goes under the knife Saturday. I'll keep the KV updated as to the cure, for the next unfortunate soul. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Chainsaw, Just a quick thought (I know, all of my thoughts are quick cause if they were any longer I'd loose them) check all of the head bolts. My 00 X-1 started acting somewhat like that before the rear head bolt loosened and backed all the way out. What I also got was a slight "ping" on top end, making me think it was ignition related, Soon I found this:  This is the rear cylinder bolt under the rocker box. I got the poping/backfire through the carb during warm up and wouldn't idle for crap. Just a thought before you pay someone to tear into your scoot. | ||
| Chainsaw |
...just checked. Bolts are intact and in place. I haven't had any issues with the idle. The magic word for me is EXTENDED WARRANTY TILL MAY 2005. If the dealer gives me trouble about the warranty, I will cash it out (Money-Back Warranty, limited time promotion) and get a 1200 conversion from Nallin, and be about $60 out of pocket after all is said and done. | ||
| Pete_o |
I'm replacing the intake manifold seals on an 2000 S3, it has the symptoms of a leak, but I wasn't able to verify it with the WD-40 test. Anyway, is there anything you want to put on the seals to make them seal better, or just put them on dry? Also, every bolt I've taken off the engine has lots of stiction, is anti seize compound a good ideas when putting back together? Will loctite help, or just make it tougher to remove next time? Thanks, Pete | ||
| Bmcdjw |
OK..here is one for ya all.... 1998 s1 .#45 slowjet #165 mainjet...adjuster out 2.5 turns..bike runs very well BUT....gets 35 miles to the gallon driving lightly...no black smoke at all.... a friend has 1998 s1w...gets 48-50mpg consistently Any suggesti  ons on where to start...seems the jetting sizes are ok..but why the sh..tty mileage..??? |
