| Author | Message | ||
     Ara |
Pj1 - Was Tim right? Same thing happened to me with my '97 S3. What I did to forever preclude that from happening again was to replace the stock carb float bowl (which has no overflow tower) with a standard Sporty float bowl (which does have an overflow tower) and to be much more regular with the petcock. Russ | ||
| Sparky |
Madstuka & Hauck, Aaron Wilson has found that some Force intake housings have a restricted float bowl vent which if not corrected causes lean operation & low dyno results. Check this Forcewinder page for the full poop. Sparky | ||
| Rick_A |
Every once in a while I get a pop through the carb when I blip the throttle while downshifting. It tends to make the bike stumble for a second. Also, when quickly pinning the throttle from low rpm it hesitates for a second. It's the CV40 with a Dynojet Thunderslide kit. It's jetted correctly, I believe. 45 pilot, 195 main, slightly shimmed aftermarket needle, 3 turns out on the mixture screw. A little rich, probably, but I'd rather err on the safe side. I suspect it may be the supplied accelerator pump nozzle pumping too much juice at lower engine speeds. Any thoughts? My bike runs perfect except for this annoying trait! I can't take it anymore. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Rick_A, It sounds like the accelerator pump isn't pumping enough juice. Is the condition worse when the engine is cold? If so, that is probably a lean accelerator pump not pumping enough gas. | ||
| Rick_A |
Actually, it only happens on hotter days after riding for prolonged periods. | ||
| Stormfool |
Boy do those X1 problems sound familiar--hope it's allright to butt in here--but if anyone's got advice/info about debugging the 2000 X1 I need it! Have put 10K on the bike in the past 3 months and that "jittery" thing is happening--doesn't like to hold a constant smooth engine speed--seems to smooth out under load (highway speeds). Mysteriously dies under hard accel. then comes back on--can't make it repeat under similar conditions--after idling at traffic light--then hard accel. followed by deaccel. makes it happen most often. Have installed Race ECU--gutted airbox--race K&N filter--race headers and Can. The Techs "zeroed the TPS" when they installed ECU and have not noted any drivability issues except poor fuel economy (36MPG at 80MPH prolonged) and the mystery glitch. Would it make any sense to just chnge the ET sensor and O2 Sensor just on a hunch? Oh--perhaps coincidentally--the battery got a dead short--then afterwards these mystery glitches arose--can a dead short batt. fry the ECU or affect the sensors? Painfully ignorant in Pompano FL--and awaiting replies | ||
| Pj1 |
picked my bike up from the dealer with all work for the float problem covered. Drove for 40 miles and the bike died and left me stranded. When I got the bike home and inspected it closely I noticed several small things that appear to be from the dealer rushing to finish the bike. As far as I can tell, the problem is the same, carb float problems. I am going to have the dealer pick it up and fix it properly, but how do I know they are not just going the same 1/2 assed job? I continue to be polite as I can with the dealer but that doesn't appear to be working anymore. Also once this is fixed correctly the bike will be going to another place for servicing | ||
| Shotgun |
2001 M2 question: while looking at the carb before starting, I noticed that bliping the throttle causes gas to squirt out of the accelerator pump boot. Is that normal? What's the fix? I have a new accelerator pump diaphram on hand but is it something else? | ||
| Ken01mp |
Rick- Ive got the same carb set up on my M2, and it runs like shit, stumbling and popping, in hot weather. its great for 60-70 degrees, but i did take it down to florida for spring break last year, ran like shit the whole time. think dyno tune or rejet it yourself, but you might want to drop the 195 to a 190. Ken | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Shotgun: There should not be fuel shooting out of the pump boot. Sounds like fuel being pushed out from around the plunger. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Ken01mp: I have a 2001 m2L with a D&D slip on and a K&N filter. The bike runs like a top with a #45 slow jet, 205 main jet, and needle shimmed .080. However, I have since encountered two other m2s with the problem you described. On one, the main jet was loose and was about to fall out, and on the other, the slow jet had completely fallen out. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Rick_A; If it only happens when it is hot, that is a sign that the pump is too rich. (That's assuming that everything else is OK.) | ||
| Hauck |
Hi all, I had a question a couple weeks ago concerning my fi not working properly when the bike's cold. Well now it's worse. The bike wont even fire until I spray starting fluid into it. It'll turn over till the battery's dead and never start. This just started since the day time temp's been down around the 30 to 40 degree range. Any thoughts? | ||
| X1glider |
Hauck, If it fires up when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body but not when you let the bike try to do it's thing, you might be looking at a fuel system problem. Remove your injectors to see if they are spraying. If your injectors aren't spraying it could be the injector themselves or a fuel pump issue. Perhaps an electrical connection wiggled loose at the ECM or the injectors. Check the fuse for the pump circuit. Check the fuel filter for clogging. Did you ever let the bike run out of gas? That causes problems according to some people here but I haven't dealt with that on personally. | ||
| X1glider |
Stormfool, overheated coils or bad plugs? An ECM can certainly fry if a battery shorts in and out. Surges can cause lots of damage. If the stock ECM never gave you any problems, I suggest putting it in and seeing if the problems go away. Unfortunately an O2 sensor doesn't give an indication of engine load, it simply tells the ECM if the mix is correct. Hmmm. that said, it could be giving the ECM false info. Hope you know enough not to use teflon pipe tape on the sensor. So far the cheapest route for you is to just put the stock ecm in and analyze if it works better. I suggest letting the thing run in neutral at different rpms and doing wiggle tests in all the critical areas too. | ||
| Hauck |
x1glider, Is it possible that a faulty ignition coil would cause these types of problems? I checked the plugs and found no spark. Then I tested the coil and found a short in the primary and increased resistance in the secondary. But why would it eventually start? Does anybody know how much a new coil is going to set me back? John | ||
| X1glider |
Yes. The fact that you mentioned that it ran when you used starter fluid gave me no reason to think it was an electrical issue. Pehaps the starter fluid has a much lower flash point and will ignite with a much less intense spark or even "heat of compression" than 93 octane gasoline. Excessive heat in a cicuit will increase resistance. New coils aren't much. To get an idea, search HD's website in the Sportster section under Squawking Chicken parts in the electrical section. | ||
| Stormfool |
Funny you should mention coilpack--I plunked down my 98 bucks and changed it out--nope Mechanic put in 6R12 plugs (I had 10R12)--nope Latest find is AFV abnormally rich--then I (not tech) discovered a good sized crack on the header by the O2 sensor--could explain some of the issues--will know in a day or two... If issues still arise then will follow leads provided (already tried the wiggle test--even took the tank off)and re-try them an keeplooking and asking because I'm KEEPING this Buell... | ||
| Shotgun |
Further on my post re: gas coming out of the accelerator pump boot. I changed out the accelerator pump diaphram over the weekend and it solved the problem. No more gas leaking around the boot, and lots better acceleration out of the blocks. I believe the original must have been pinched as it looked deformed. This thing never wheelied and I wrote it off as a problem of the M2L. But when I changed the diaphram and test rode it, the bike spontaneously wheelied while trying to get across a 4 lane intersection. Agora esta muito melhor. (Excuse my Portuguese) | ||
| Anon_R |
Stormfool: The crack in the head pipe is the cause of your abnormally high AFV. Fresh air is leaked in and makes the O2 sensor think the mixture is lean. When this condition is reported to the ECM, the ECM responds by richening the mixture to compensate for the "lean" condition. As for the mysterious hesitation at high RPMs, check the Cam position sensor for contact by the rotor cup. Look for polished spots on the "fingers" of the rotor cup or a black "dust" trailing from the pick-up of the Cam Position sensor. Make sure you mark the timing plate and get the timing back EXACTLY where you found it (assumes timing was right to start). Also follow the wires from the cam position sensor out of the cam cover and look for nicks or shorts in the wires. Check the plug to be sure all the pins are seated properly in the connector. Look at the rear spark plug wire where it lays on top of the bolt holding the center engine mount to the rear head. If there are marks on it from rubbing, replace it. Put the 10R12 plugs back in. All your tech did when he changed to the 6R12 was raise the combustion chamber temperature and possibly set up pre-ignition and detonation. Blake/Admin: Anon button on this page please...PLEASE!  | ||
| Sparky |
"... If there are marks on it from rubbing, replace it." In addition, you might want to add an "ounce of prevention" by wrapping the spark plug wire at the interference area with electrical tape or a short length of rubber tubing slit lengthwise. Sparky | ||
| Henrik |
electrical tape or a short length of rubber tubing slit lengthwise. I've found spiral cut loom/wire wrap from Radioshack to be very tough and good at protecting all kinds of wiring in tight spots. henrik | ||
| Rick_A |
I took my bike for a dyno run and found that the air/fuel ratio is way rich in the midrange. Low rpm is slightly lean. High rpm is slightly rich. Seeing I'm already 3 turns out on the idle mixture screw...I'll be putting in a 48 jet instead of the 45. I'm gonna move the needle down quite a bit...and maybe go to a 190 main jet over the 195. This sound right? Anyone have any suggestions? Since I moved down south my bike lost 1/2hp up top and gained 2 ft-lbs peak torque. Low rpm torque dropped considerably. Anyone know if a Dynojet needle is compatible with regular CV40 jets? | ||
| Rick_A |
I messed with needle positions today. Dropping it down two positions (it has an E clip with 6 positions) caused the bike to barely run. I raised the needle back up one position and it seems to be a decent, but not great, compromise. | ||
| Hootowl |
While looking for software to adjust the Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI system on my truck, I found this: http://www.technoresearch.com/pdf/MDST2001%20Ver2.0.pdf Would it work on Buell's FI? Who makes the ECM? | ||
| Rick_A |
Well, I rejetted my carb before I making a few 200 mile trips. I went with a 48 slow jet and 190 main...combined with the needle moved down I gained 5-10 mpg on the freeway, she's smooth all through the RPM range...never detonates in any traffic or temperature...and warms up much faster. I'm thinkin' of putting an A/F ratio meter on her. I figure that'd be better than spending a lot of $$ on dyno time in persuit of a good ratio through the rev range. | ||
| Ncbueller |
Any one known what the maximum CFM of the stock FI throttle body might be? Thanks | ||
| Sarodude |
Friday night Loli met me at my office around 3:30 or 4 pm. She'd gassed up a few minutes earlier and we went for a ride that started in Woodland Hills. We took Mulholland from Topanga to Kanan, Kanan to PCH, northbound on PCH to the Starbuck's at Trancas and had something warm. After coffee we hopped back on the bikes and rode back into the Valley via Kanan, Agoura Rd (bad traffic on 101), and some parts of the route I don't recall. We stopped and had dinner in Sherman Oaks. Here's where the fun starts. After dinner we got on the 101 to head back home. I was leading us through some lane changes when I noticed Loli wasn't in my mirrors... Turns out the the little Blast, according to Loli's description, started to feel anemic. It just wouldn't go. It eventually died and left her trying to start it on the shoulder. It eventually fired and she got rolling again only to find it feeling Anemic once more. She pulled off the freeway and headed home - with no further engine death. I grilled her about exactly how it behaved as it died. I was trying to ascertain whether the culprit was fuel or spark. Everything she told me led me to believe that it was fuel though there should be NO reason why it would starve. It had gone maybe 80 or 90 miles on a full tank - so the tank vent sticking thing just seems unlikely. I checked out all the electrical connections. I put an ohm meter to the sidestand switch. I looked over everything electrical I could think of. Nothing out of sorts. The bike has since gone maybe another 100 or 150 miles without incident. Has anyone had fuel tank vent sticking problems without a full tank? The temperature was dropping during our whole ride and I wonder if MAYBE that had something to do with it. I don't really know. I'm just reaching for straws. -Saro | ||
| Court |
Did she have a tank bag on the bike? I've had times when a tag bag can shift slighty causing what appears to the naked butt to be similar to fuel starvation. Hey...WAIT...is *IS* fuel starvation. There...there's your first straw. | ||
| Sarodude |
Court- Good thought on the tank bag - but no dice. I SHOULD note that the carb has a Dial-A-Jet installed. This has given me no problems in that past - and in fact, I've instructed Loli to look at the level of fuel in the transparent fuel line leading from the float bowl to the DAJ if this ever happens again. It's an easy indicator of the float bowl's fuel level. -Saro |
