| Author | Message | ||
     Ara |
Oh heck yes, riding the bike with the airbox cover off ought to really change your carburetion. And the faster you ride the worse it ought to get. Give it a spin with it totally put back together. You need a solid baseline for comparison purposes, and you don't have that yet. | ||
| Dart |
Does anyone have problems with the mixture screw turning by itself? I've been trying to tune my M2(Forcewinder with ground out vent hole, and Daytona Boss exhaust) with a little avail. After adjusting the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out, should I inject some silicone caulk or blue locktight or something to keep it where I place it? I've been thinking of buying a thumb screw mixture screw and fuel inlet elbow I saw Mixture screw and Brass fuel inlet elbow. I have found it at 5 turns out and I re-adjust to 2.5 turns. Now I've got a 45 pilot jet, 175 main jet, and 2.5 turns out on the mixture screw and it seems to like it that way except it lets out small pops on deceleration. Should I goto 3 turns out or 2 turns out(Which make a richer mixture?). With a 185 main jet full throttle would bog down. Any help is good help, and I learn alot from reading posts. Steve '00 M2 | ||
| Sparky |
Dart, you might want to inspect the idle mixture screw to see if its O-ring is intact. The O-ring should (usually) exert enough pressure to keep the screw from backing out. If it appears OK and the screw still moves easily, I'd seal it like you said. You don't want to lose the screw on the road. Small pops on decel are OK, indicating you're in the ballpark for low speed jetting, but I'd check for any small exhaust leaks at the muff slip joint & head pipe gaskets, & check for intake manifold seal leaks. 3 turns is richer. Sparky 96S1, 98S3, 03NineR | ||
| Shotgun |
Dart, I use the above exposed knurled idle screw and it is great, you can adjust it at a stop light with a light glove on your right hand. I've played a lot with jets and when you are getting popcorn farts when decelerating, it usually means you need to back it out more, make it the idle mix richer, like go to 3.0 turns out. If it is still doing it, I'd recommend going to the 44 idle slo jet so you can keep the setting to 3.0 or less. For sure you need to know whether or not there are any manifold leaks before adjusting much. | ||
| Dart |
I don't think I have any manifold leaks, I just replaced all 3 seals for the intake manifold. I'm going to install the knurled idle screw and fuel elbow, if anything (like you said Shotgun, it makes adjusting mixture easy). Thanks for the input. Before replacing the intake seals, I had my M2 running nice just not all that great of thrust. What a difference afterwards though, instant rich mixture. Now I'm running a 175 main jet. I might use a spot of hylomar to hold the knurled idle screw from turning against my will. Also, I will be checking the o-ring(mixture screw) for possible damage just in case. Thanks again, Steve '00 M2 | ||
| Dart |
Shotgun, Where did you buy your mixture screw?(creativecycleprod.com doesn't seem to exist anymore) Steve | ||
| Shotgun |
Dart, it was CreativeCycle I got mine from, but I think a couple of the Harley on-line aftermarket folks were handling it for them as well. It showed up first in some of the Sportster related carb tuning sites. Also, that little o-ring is not on the Buell parts list. I tried to replace it at the Buell shop when mine was destroyed and they couldn't figure out what it was. I ended up going to Ace Hardware and buying several of their smallest o-rings and using the closest I could find. | ||
| Dart |
Looks like I'll do the same (to get a replacment o-ring for the mixture screw). Loews Hardware store here I come. I'm kind-of impressed with what they call The Cure but would like to hear from someone who has installed this kit or "The Cure Vent Plus" from the same web site http://www.directparts.com/ccp/ccp_main.html Thanks, Steve '00 M2 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hey 99 X1 owners... A buddy from another motorcycle list (my old scoot, a Yamaha Radian) has seen the light and swapped up to a 99 X1. He gets it sometime this week. I told him the common wisdom that the race ECM will solve no end of problems with the early fuel injection, and he was wondering if the stock ECM from a later model, or an updated map would also work. He does not really need peak performance at this point, he is looking to eliminate the midrange flat spot and just keep good overall driveability. He will likely show up here shortly, just post answers here. Thanks! My M2 injection map seems perfect  (actually its not, I still ping on hard accels on hot days, even with the updated jets... gotta check my timing)... Bill | ||
| Rempss |
Bill, The Race ECM is the best starting point for all of the DDFI bikes. Even if a newer model stock ECM would work (I don't know if it will), it is only a matter of time before the Race ECM will be needed (wanted). Several changes were made to the 1999 stock ECM map, as long as he has the latest upgrade (I will dig that code up and post it) it should be OK to ride until he decides to change the intake & exhaust. The Race ECM then should be added along with his first round of modifications. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Bill, The biggest improvement that the race ECM makes is to the low and mid range. Peak HP is not significantly affected. | ||
| Hootowl |
It also stops almost all pinging. | ||
| Petel |
Sorry to but-in folks but was just reading this thread. M2 40mm CV carb #175 main jet? Seems Way too weak . Unless the jets are different I use a #195 Dynojet with the emulsion tube but a standard NOKK needle and a #45 Harley pilot jet. I`m running on 95ron unleaded (tried 98ron super but the bike dos`nt like it). It pulls 91hp and 87ftlb with a stock engine. Oh! I`m in the UK. Pete. 02 M2. | ||
| Meditr0n |
Here is the update... I got the X1 back, IT WAS THE ENGINE TEMP SENSOR!!!!! It fried and was throwing the engine into skip-spark. The dealer ordered the part and after a week they still had not gotten it in. I had had enough at this point (I told them it might be that sensor from the start and they still took a week to diagnose it on their own) 2 weeks into the fix and told them again this was my daily driver. They pulled the sensor from a floor model and installed it in mine for me. So... Tampa HD gets a black mark for not listening to me from the start about the cause. BUT they get a GOLD star for getting me back on the road!!!! Thanks again for all the help from you guys on the board. Ps. BLAKE thanks for the e-mail the other day. It helped a ton. The brake light is fine now. BTW what is the correct bulb for the tail-light? It does not seem to be an 1157? | ||
| Blake |
Dart, I agree with Petel, a 175 seems way too lean for a Buell twin with a stock CV40 carburetor. Med, Not sure about the bulb. But that would be another topic eh?  | ||
| Bud |
dus anyone ( blake,court ) now some more inner details off the ddfi on a xb like; duty cycle % stock/race ecm, fuel inj. flow also ( other topic ) cam specs. like overlap and duration & valvelift were in progress off tuning my bolt, the race kit is already on. 1 stage = poorting & flowing 2 stage = nallin cyl. & 10.5/1 pistons 3 stage = realy need cam specs. & inj.specs tanxs, bud | ||
| Mzoomora |
HEY EVERYBODY, I AM HOPING SOMEONE CAN GIVE ME AN ANSWER FOR A PROBLEM I AM HAVING. I OWN A 2001 X1 WITH A RACE ECM AND AIR CLEANER. I BOUGHT THE BIKE USED WITH ABOUT 1500 MILES. I PUT ON ABOUT 500 MILES TROUBLE FREE. I WAS RIDING THIS AFTERNOON, AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE, I START IT UP FOR MY NIGHT TIME RIDE AND IT WAS OKAY FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES. I LEANED INTO THE THROTTLE A LITTLE, AND WHEN I BACKED OFF IT WAS MISFIRING AND STALLED. I RESTARTED IT AND IT HAD VERY LITTLE POWER AND IS ALSO MISFIRING THROUGH THE EXHAUST ABOVE ABOUT 3500 RPM. THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. I SWITCHED BACK TO THE STOCK ECM, AND NO CHANGE. I AM HOPING FOR A EASY/COMMON SOLUTION. MY THOUGHTS WERE VALVE RELATED TROUBLE (BROKEN VALVE/ SPRING), BUT WAS WONDERING IF IT COULD BE ELECTRICAL/ COMPUTER RELATED. THERE IS A BURNING TYPE OF SMELL, BUT I AM UNABLE TO PINPOINT IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS MIKE | ||
| Josh |
Mike, "burning kind of smell" Electrical? If you've got a short somewhere it could easily cause strange problems, I'd get a good light source and look for burns along the cable runs. Yank the seat and prop the tank up enough to see underneath. Without the smell, I'd guess an intake leak would be the most common problem with those symptoms. Note that switching ECMs usually requires the dealership to reset the ECM's "TPS zero" value. Otherwise that alone could cause those problems. josh | ||
| Hauck |
I know I only write to you guys when I need help so why should this time be any different... My '00 X1 wont idle after a cold start. I have to keep giving it gas till it warms up. Shouldn't the ddfi keep the rpm's up on it's own? any thoughts on this? | ||
| X1glider |
Idle should be between 1000-1100. 1100 rpms would be he better choice for better cold starts and idling. Also have the timing and TPS value checked if it persists. | ||
| Hauck |
When warm, it idles perfectly within that range. I'm talking about cold starts when it's 40 degrees outside. Shouldn't I just have to hit the starter and let the fi take care of raising the rpm's until the bike is up to operating temp? | ||
| X1glider |
That's what I'm talking about. It should idle in cold weather better (notice I said better) if the idle is set to the high side. But yes I agree the X1 should be able to idle on it's own when the temp is really low. Since I live where it's usually 100 degrees I can't confirm if it has a fast idle (something a head temp sensor might trigger) that kicks in to keep it from stalling. | ||
| Madstuka |
I recently changed from a Buell Race kit pipe and intake to a Force intake and pipe. The bike bogs below 3000rpm and runs a lot hotter than before. Since I have a Mikuni, can anyone suggest the jet sizes. Pat | ||
| Josh |
My 99 S3 (FI) is a pain to start/idle when cold. I ride year-round in down to 26deg temps so I put a Throttlemeister on to help with warming up. | ||
| Hauck |
In other words, learn to live with in. Thanks. Madstuka: I've got the force set-up too and from what I've been told(just hear-say), there's nothing that we can do to fix that flat spot under 3000 rpm. Sure is a pain in the ass but once you get over that point, hold on. | ||
| Mzoomora |
Hey Josh, I got home today and started to work on my bike, and I Pulled the plugs, and both electrodes were collapsed all the way! I have to investigate further. I'll update you. Thanks, Mike | ||
| Jdbuellx1 |
Is anyone out there using the BC Gerolamy 50mm throttle body and intake? If so, can the race ecm handle it by itself? Were there any significant gains in power? Is it worth the price? Justin | ||
| Pj1 |
last night when I got back on my bike (M2) the engine wouldn't turn over and there was a very strong gasoline smell. I noticed some gas dripping from the airbox. When I reached down and pulled the cover back about a 1/2 gallon of gas poured out of the airbox. My thought was it was the float valve in the carb, but would this effect the starter? Any thoughts? | ||
| Tim |
It's not affecting the starter, but gasoline doesn't compress very well, and you've probably got a cylinder full. You can pull the plugs and try turning the engine over (watch out for the shower of gas!) After you replace the plugs and get it running, you should change the oil as some gas may have made it to the lower end of the engine. | ||
| Pj1 |
thanks Tim, I'll take alook this afternoon |
