| Author | Message | ||
     Xldevil |
Hi.Riding a Sporty with Buell TS-Heads & pistons, stock cams and SE-coil and 6800 r/pm module. I´m going to find the best jetting for the stock CV 6 SE-AC.Right now I´m riding a Dynojet Kit with a '48 idle and a # 195 main.The mainjet seems to be too rich. Does anyone has an idea if it would be better to goe with a smaller main, cause I´m disappointed about max speed.Dyno results say I have 73 DIN ( about 83 SAE) rwhp and 100 Nm torque.That´s not bad for a Sporty, but she´s a littlte lazy at higher speed. Any tip could help. Sorry for my poor english. So long,Ralph /Germany | ||
| Shotgun |
Got my new D& D exhaust on and dialed in my jetting with my A/F guage. Like Jerome's experience before, I found the CV-40 was running too rich with Hypercharger intake, race ignition, stock header and D&D muffler. Went from 195/45 main/pilot to 185/42 to get best A/F values. Bike now runs 13.0:1 at start, 13.5:1 at idle, 14.2:1 in cruising range, and 14.3:1 at 5000 RPM up. Low end is still boggy, just like the stock bike, mid-range and high end are outstanding, no bogging. Some mild back-fire when engine braking, but not bad. I tried one of the leanest needles in place of the NOKK, but it didn't help. I guess I could go to a 40 pilot, but will wait for a dyno run now to fine tune. Anybody interested in my A/F setup and O2 sensor, let me know. Would be glad to loan it. Including the hole saw needed to fit a bung into your header. It's a heated 4 wire sensor, but simple to hook up. Insert O2 sensor in bung. Mount A/F on mirror. Plug standard SAE fitting into your battery charger or heated clothing circuit. Ride. | ||
| Blake |
XL Devil, Your Buellized XL may be running rich. Most T-Stormed Buell M2's (same cams as your sporty) running the stock carb seem to like a 45 slow jet and a 190 or even 185 main jet. The idle mixture screw likes to be around 2-1/2 turns out from full in. I'm not sure how the Dynojet kit affects the jetting. Also worth considering is that your pipes may be better or worse at scavenging at high speeds. Your 83 SAE RWHP is VERY respectable. Intake and head porting and some more aggresive cams will let her breath significantly better at high speeds. Next winter, trade in your heads for a Nallinized set and some cams.  Your english is great! | ||
| Xldevil |
Hi.Blake. I´ve already mailed with Naillin and maybe in winter I will send my heads to get the stage 2 upgrade incl. Hurrican pistons and SE cams. My pipes are stock headers with crossover tube, Supertrapp slip on mufflers, 18 discs each.That´s the lowest restriction I can go because of noise emissions regulations and the fucking TÜV in Germany. Even so this set up is much to loud, I risk it. I´ve already paid € 80 to the police and was caught 5h, till my friend brought me the stock slip ons.That time I was riding the Khrome werks HP slip ons. They are realy loud, but perform extremly well.The police still has them. To ride legal, You can only use 5 discs each. Finding a dyno with a/f tester is not so easy over here.So I´ve to go by the feel of my pants. IMO the Dynojet Kit, incl. a different emulsions tube, enrichens the mixture. That is why it cures backfirering of stock CV. Maybe I will be better using a # 180-185 main. If You like, I will let You know the results. So long, Ralph  | ||
| Richieg150 |
I was riding my M2 2000,I rolled wfo from about 3200,around 4200 I noticed my bike pinging,then at about 4700,it quit.I tried this in 4th and 5th gear,it was the same.I have never noticed this before,so Im thinking maybe my last gas stop had a lower octane fuel?Maybe to hot of plugs,im running SE EX12S?Im thinking of putting in some octain boost and trying it the to see if it stopps?Any suggestions out there why it seems to be pinging,like I said I havent noticed this before.I noticed this while riding to a friends house,when I got there I set my timing back to the stock setting,it was advances 2 degrees.It helped some but it still pings alittle.What does anybody out there think?  | ||
| Richieg150 |
In my previous post I forget to mention,earlier I added some carburator cleaner to my tank of gas,trying to see if maybe that may help my bikes idle.Thought maybe a passage might be kinda gummed up.Could the cleaner have lowered my octane enough to make the bike ping?? | ||
| V2win |
Hey, Does anyone know the part number for the carb mounting plate on a S2? I want the one that has two round holes ; not the one with one hole and one slot for the breather banjo bolts that comes on the S3's etc.. Thanks, John | ||
| Rall |
John, The part # is 29365-95y AIR CLEANER SUPPORT. Just curious why do you want the old bracket on your S-3? Mark | ||
| Sportyeric |
The S2 part is twice the price of the S3 one, if I remember correctly. Is someone else having a problem of breaking the stupid things all the time? I am, but I blame a too heavy billet cover on the 3" K&N. | ||
| V2win |
Mark, thanks for the number. I am going to install some fancy-dancy stainless banjo fitings. I want to work with a bracket without the slotted hole so as to avoid any leaks on that side. I heard that the S2 bracket was the best for that. Any other ideas out there? | ||
| Gravedigger |
Hoping to get some advice!!!! I have a 1999 x1 with race kit. bike fires and idles. upon turning the throttle it dies. if I turn the throttle wide open it runs but rpms jump up and down. eventually floods the motor. (pulled plugs and there were wet. I have replaced the o2 sensor and the rear temp sensor. it also fouls the plugs quickly. I think it might be the throttle position sensor. anyone have an idea? thanks in advance keith | ||
| Sarodude |
Dumb question with regard to Gravedigger's post: Do these bikes have fuel pressure regulators? Do these bikes have some sort of Limp Mode? -Saro | ||
| Gravedigger |
One additional question. can the tps be reset with a scanalizer but without the buell card? | ||
| Doof |
Gravedigger- Unfortunately, the Scanalyzer requires the Buell cartridge for working on DDFI Buells. Also, was the TPS reset when the race kit was originally installed? | ||
| Gravedigger |
yes, the tps was reset when the race kit was installed. I am wondering if it is not either the an air intake manifold leak or the tps. thanks again keith | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Sounds like a leak. Check EVERYTHING, plug and unplug all sensors. Does the DDFI light flash any codes? | ||
| Hootowl |
Sounds like the TPS sensor to me. I had one go bad on a Subaru, and it did the same thing you described. You can test it with an analog ohmmeter. Connect the leads to the sensor, and slowly roll on the throttle while watching the meter. The needle should sweep smoothly throughout the entire range. If it jumps around, you've got a bad sensor. I suppose you could use a digital meter. It might be harder to notice a jump though. | ||
| Gravedigger |
no flash codes. checked intake manifold, doesn't see, to be leaking. | ||
| Robr |
Sarodude, The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel pump. Rob | ||
| Hootowl |
Our EFI setup is a little different (in every sense). There is no return line to the tank. Since the distance the fuel has to travel to get to the injector is so short, there is very little, if any, pressure drop. Constant fuel pressure is critical for an EFI to work properly. A car has fuel lines many feet long, so the regulator is mounted on the fuel rail, and the unused gas is sent back to the tank. | ||
| Gravedigger |
EVERYONE, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP! turned out to be a tie strap on the main wiring run pulling connections loose. namely the tps and airbox sensor. AHHH, now time to put a few mroe miles on her!!! | ||
| José_Quiñones |
cool! See you at Deals Gap! | ||
| Gravedigger |
ya, it really worked out nicely. Racerboy and V2win are heading up this way to do some riding enroute to the Springfield mile.  | ||
| Jmartz |
Got the N65C needle .015 higher in the CV44 in an attempt to arrest ocassional midrange bucks. Will post results when bike runs again (this weekend hopefully). On an earlier discussion it was mentioned the the 44 has different length needles than the 40. Because of the larger throat opening and the ability of the slide to rise a bit more, 44 needles are a bit longer. Using a thinner and shorter 40 needle such as the N65C should provide more fuel at rest (idle) and at midrange. It doesn't. jose | ||
| Rempss |
A FI question. Just pondering here, I just finished milling/boring my throttle body out to 50mm. I have mad a throttle plate to fit. Why do I need it? I have seen carbs & FI bodies without it. Are there benefits to loosing it or keeping it? Thanks for ANY input, Jeff | ||
| Blake |
José, At idle isn't the needle fully penetrating the jet and thus not in play. Does the NC65 have the same base diameter as the stock CV44 needle? If not, did you swap needle jets accordingly? You don't you want the needle coming into play at idle, do you? I would think that the appropriate length CV44 needle would be the best choice to start with. Why are you using an NC65? It seems to me that with a shorter needle, you will be running full rich to soon, before the slide fully retracts. | ||
| Jmartz |
The emusion tube and accessory parts were the same. I am using the N65C because I've been too cheap to buy a 44 tuners kit. The stock needle is very fat and would only aggrave things. Thebike runs lean at midrange. I have been lifting the needle with good results. Its current (before my last lift) was about 85 - 90% correct. Just a buck here or there during 60 mph cruising never on transition to wot. | ||
| Blake |
But could you be running rich at WOT? | ||
| Ezblast |
has anyone tried the Quicksilver carb? The 38 or the 40? How was it - is there anything to it? How easy is it to work on? EZ blasting on the dark side! | ||
| Jmartz |
As I understand it Blake, WOT is controlled solely by the main jet, which means, supposedly, that the carb would work fine even w/o a needle under those conditions. A dyno run sometime ago showed 92 HP at 6200 so I think redline (7000) power was close to 100, which would indicate a correct WOT mixture. Main jet is 195. Atalanta is at 1000 ft elevation. |
