| Author | Message | ||
     Buellmalarky |
Ok, so I'm new here and I'm new to Buell. I just purchased the bike and I love it, I just have a few questions that searches have not given me the answers too. Is there a standard warm up time for a twin? I've never owned a twin, I realize that this could be relative to the temperature outside. HD told me when I had a new tire installed that the rear wheel bearings might not have that much life in them. I'm a decent mechanic, is this something I should tackle myself or let HD do it for $92/hour? I'm sorry if these questions seem incredibly newbish. Take it easy on me! | ||
| Buellmalarky |
Also, if there is anything else I might need to know about that could help with my learning curve please let me know! | ||
| Nik |
I've always started the bike before putting on my gear, then by the time I'm suited up, it's warmed up. | ||
| Wavex |
I typically warm it up for about 1min or 2 and then go mellow for the first few miles... I don't think there is a "standard" warm up time per se  Not sure about your tire question... | ||
| Froggy |
For the warmup, it is hard to say as it depends on many factors including the air temperature. I start mine, run in and throw on some gear, and then take off. Like any vehicle, don't beat on it for a the first few miles so the trans, tires, and other things have a chance to warm up. If the bike is not done warming up, sometimes the fuel injection gets a little funny and the bike can hiccup. As for the bearings, they are something you should check when you have the tire off and then replace as necessary. There is a problem with water getting past the seals if you ride a lot in the rain or do river crossings, so Buell revised the seals on the 2009 models to prevent failures. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Welcome aboard, Malarky. Perhaps your dealer was referring in the typical Harley dealer roundabout way, to the fact that the bearings on your bike might just be defective and subject to a free recall. The way you can tell is by the color of the seals. If they are black, they should be replaced free of charge. Technically not a recall, it is a "Safety Uprgrade". If the seals are orange, and the bike has reasonable mileage,I wonder why the dealer thinks they need to be replaced? Wheel bearings should be replaced at the first sign of any lack of smooth running: having them fail at speed isn't a pretty picture on a motorbike. If you are mechanically inclined, they are not particularly difficult to remove and install. Just follow the instructions in the shop manual. You do have the Shop Manual, right? Buells are simple to work on , but due to their unique design, some procedures are not that obvious the first time you do them. The parts manual is a very good thing to have, if only for the exploded views that clearly show how everything goes back together. Bearings can only be removed and reinstalled a small number of times, so if you are thinking about power coating your wheels, do it while the bearings have been removed. Good luck with your new bike. | ||
| Froggy |
Jon I didn't mention the color thing, because the 09's have black seals again, just to confuse the hell out of us  | ||
| Brumbear |
I think the main thing is not to shut it down to soon if you start it don't run it for a minute and then shut it down . They don't like that at all the plugs will foul | ||
| Midknyte |
That and don't rev the engine during startup / warmup. That's a plug foul'er. | ||
| Niceguyeddy |
I start it up, then gear up. It's ussually at least 2-3 min since I have kids! Marcus | ||
| Niceguyeddy |
Oops, I meant "usually." | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Summer: helmet on and fastened, start engine, gloves on, go. Near winter: helmet on, start engine, fasten helmet, gloves on, go. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
isnt it good-to-go at any time after you have had the bike's engine broken-in...? | ||
| Nillaice |
i notice a 'flat spot' around 2500 rpms if it's still cold. that clues me in | ||
| Jeffroj |
Not letting the bike warm up, revving the crap out if it when you start it, or hitting the red-line in your first mile are all good ingredients to create an oil leak. Different parts have different heat cycles. The bearings might have been an up-sell, business is really slow during the winter. They tried to up-sell me the other day by recommending me to switch back to stock pads from lyndall golds, and recommending new tires, I only have 2500 miles on them! | ||
| Jeffroj |
I usually let my bike warm up for a good 3 minutes. I went riding with my friend 2 weeks ago, he rides a gsxr 600, I felt bad for his bike when he started it up and revved it to red-line to show off. When we stopped to get gas, he had a little puddle of oil forming under his bike. Hopefully he learned a lesson. (Message edited by jeffroj on February 21, 2009) | ||
| Buellmalarky |
What's the best way to check if I really do have an bearing problem? Is the only way to remove the rear tire and examine myself? Thanks for all your help so far fellas. I heard Eric Buell himself post on here, is this true? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
You can quick check your bearings by jacking up the bike at the appropriate point on the muffler, depending on which wheel you're checking. Then just feel the wheel both directions as well as sideways. If there is any roughness, noise or free play you may need new bearings. Do this examinations soon so you can quit worrying about it. I check mine with every oil change. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
"I heard Eric Buell himself post on here, is this true?" If you see a post from someone named "annonamous", well, who knows. However, a close personal friend of his posts here daily (at least). He uses his real name too! Court Canfield has been a great asset to this site and even to me personally. "A true champion in all things Buell" ( A quote from a letter I got from Mr. John Flickenger) please excuse my spelling. I have a hangover. Dan. | ||
| Buellmalarky |
Thanks Panhead. I don't think they were trying to up sell me anything. The mechanic is actually a member here (sharkytattoo) and was pretty genuine. The taxes and tire and everything burned me out of my available cash and I'm trying to do the work safely but cheaply. I did some searching around in here but haven't come up with anything solid. What is the main place people get Buell OEM parts for in here? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html?1235225710 This is the Buell Parts Center of the Universe. By the way, Welcome to the best Buell site on the www! | ||
| Panhead_dan |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 21.html?1235238399 This one if you are on a budget. (used parts and stuff) | ||
| Froggy |
I noticed a bad wobble doing wheelies 
He and other Buell engineers have posted here under the Annoymous name for legal reasons.
Either your dealer or one of the Badweb sponsors. Most of the sponsors are dealers, and some of them offer discounts to Badwebbers. Most of them are listed here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html?1235238883 | ||
| Buellmalarky |
"I noticed a bad wobble doing wheelies " I got a feeling that if you are noticing a wobble while riding it's done gone WAY to far. Kinda balsy if you ask me! Ha! | ||
| Sleez |
i have always followed the the warm up procedure that was passed down from some early buellers; let it warm up at idle until the lower cylinder cooling fins are too warm to touch with a bare finger. has served me well for years. welcome to the madness that is buell. | ||
| Akbuell |
I don't go quite as far as Sleez, but I did used to do that on my race bikes. I could never understand why guys would work on their race bikes all week, then get to the track, fire the bike up, and blast out onto the track at max RPM on a cold engine. And then wonder why they had mechanicals. Anyway, I start the Buell, and let it idle while I do a walk-around, making sure the lights work, the exhaust studs are intact, the front motor mount and bolts are OK, ect. Then put on jacket, helmet, and gloves, and ride away. Gentle throttle for the first mile or so. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
a good thick layer of mud will keep all your latent heat from your last ride in and insulated... warm up time is spent running to the dirty forest roads. Its hot by the time I get there. | ||
| Id073897 |
warm up time is spent running to the dirty forest roads. Its hot by the time I get there. Riding for warmup takes only a third to a quarter of the time compared to idle. 70% of engine wear is caused by running a cold engine, so keeping the warmup period as short as possible is a good idea. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
That would be true if "wear" and "wear under load" were equal. I'm a firm believer in allowing enough time to get some heat and oil distributed before introducing load. 2 minutes will have your fuel injection system dialed in to conditions and 10 minutes will have oil and some heat distributed. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Go with Id073897. Moving warm up is best, it's an air-cooled twin, not a water-cooled V8. Remember the oil cycling through when you shut off the bike, you're good to go. Wait a few blocks and then rip. There is no even heat distribution when it is parked, the rear cylinder is shrouded. Get the air flowing around it. When it's cold and you stall on the first stop sign, that's an indication you should have warmed up longer. If it's cooler and you bog, you'll have to wait another block longer. You'll get a feel for it. Actually, I'm pretty impressed with the Buell ECM's choke circuit. (I don't understand Dan's two minute statement, the bike's running so the ECM injectors are working, it's on the fuel enrichment circuit at that point.) Ten minutes, I'm at work in ten minutes. Following Dan's rule, I wouldn't ever be riding to work. However, when the temp gets to the 30°s (F), yes, I agree. A ten minute trip is not good for the bike. But, if I'm not going to work, I'll be at highway speeds in less than ten, smiling and freezing my face off. Right now on this forum, there's a bunch of people getting concerned over mileage (on a sport bike, go figure?). You can't have both. Long idles cancel good mileage. Ride it. |
