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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe I'll play around with the idea some at home. Let's see, first I've got to find a bike to use, then access to a machine shop (indirect remote access now that I haven't utilized yet), maybe a better CAD system at home (or dig out the drafting tools and some Borco for the kitchen table and retrieve the parallel bar from the storage),.... (hmmm, maybe I'd better start with a business plan first):)
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What would be so terribly bad about a spring loaded idler?
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nothing. The M6 chain tensioner works perfectly. You would probably need an idler on both sides of the belt path though to help keep the slap and snap under control.

Or, how about just a short chain to an idler, then you could just connect the belt to a sprocket/pulley idler assembly and add back in some rear wheel adjustment to get the belt under recommended tension.

Or redesign the whole rearend suspension to allow the pivot point to coincide with the center of the tranny shaft.

Just some ideas on a raining afternoon as the S2 sits in the parking lot turning the front brake rotor to various shades of rust. Makes interesting patterns on the white wheel though. :)
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Bud
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Call me stupid if you like , but my first thoughts were that is was a spring loaded tensioner
Only to find after closer examination, that it wasn’t.
I can’t still see how this design is able to get a equal tension on the belt trough the whole moving range of the swingarm,
And there’s a lot off tension on the belt (B2Win say’s +/- 350 pounds ??)
I’m sure the Buell people now want there doing.
But i can’t quit see the finer working’s off the lay-out.
Never had any experians with belt drives on bike’s , but to me as a car mechanic. It look’s to me like a distribution belt :)

( by the way I’ll get a English course soon :) )

greetings, bud
( holland )
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The idler pulley is placed approximately to where the pivot/transition point/path of the belt going over the idler pulley compared to the parallel path of the upper path of the belt, drawing a line between the upper and lower portion thereof, the center of said line will be approximately centered in line with the pivot center line of the swingarm. Geometrically it's aligning/repositioning the belt tension somewhat evenly over the range of motion of the swingarm.

And nobody is calling anyone stupid, not that I know of anyway.

MikeJ (I probably just confused the world with that posting, but I understand it.:))
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'd have to disagree that the M6 primary chain tensioner works perfectly. I have one brand new, been sitting in its box for 4 years now. I think they are trouble waiting to happen. The secondary drive belt tensioner would need a strong enough spring tension to keep the entire belt tensioned, even during hard engine breaking, maybe a damper would solve that?
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Ramon
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 07:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How come my dealer can't afford to sell me one at $8599 :(

- r a m o n
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Buellzebub
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

fwiw, you can remove the pipes without rotating the engine down, my Bro hoser's bin there done that, you may require a wobble extension and a swivel socket to do it though.


that was the first question i asked him when i saw a bolt being strippped down.
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Rd350
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 02:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blake,


Have to agree on the M6 primary tentioner. I had one on the bike for about 500 miles. I had problems with it. When I pulled it apart it was about to break inside, good idea bad design. It is not built strong enough for the average Buell rider. Maybe Harley guys can get away with it. But with all the power shifts from the Buell guys it will break. The metal is not strong enough and strips out on the threads. Lucky that I pulled it apart in time. I would not recommend it.
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"I'd have to disagree that the M6 primary chain tensioner works perfectly."

Sorry, but I couldn't figure out which emoticon was for sarcasm so I hoped everyone would pick up on that, oh well. Translation: the M6 works perfectly - not. Which was my point, somehow.

Looked at an XB again last night a little closer. It'd be awkward, but I still like the idea of putting the swingarm pivot in line with the tranny drive centerline. I know, a driveshaft! (Ducking and running for cover.)

Got more to say, but not ready to yet, also not sure if it's, uh, well, nevermind. Let's just say there's lots to see in some garages, more so than in some others.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I must be the exception then,as I have had an M-6 in my S-2 for about 50,000 miles with no problems.And it hasn't been stock for at least that long.
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Rick_A
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Anyone seen this writeup of the XB? I take this comment as an insult!:


Quote:

Given the bruisings it's taken, I think that Buell is to be commended for maintaining a high level of innovation; all the more so given that its customers seem primarily fascinated with color and noise.


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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey! I resemble that remark!

oooooow...Look at the pretty colors!
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Chainsaw
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


Quote:

...all the more so given that its customers seem primarily fascinated with color and noise.




yeah, lots of stunning color choices with the XB. Any color you want, as long as it's blue or white! Noise? Not a single aftermarket muffler was available when i bought mine.
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Chainsaw
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


Quote:

As if carrying its fuel in the frame were not enough, the Firebolt carries 3.5 quarts of oil to serve the dry sump engine in its swingarm.




...just for the record Citybike, thats a 2.5 quart capacity.

(nitpicking, I know!) :devil:
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Race kit muffler observations:
Weighs about 13 lbs.
No baffles. Inlet pipe becomes the perforated core of a "glass pack" type muffler except it looks like coarse stainless steel wool instead of fiberglass.
Non replaceable packing mat'l probably won't burn out either.
Perforated core tube opens into a rear chamber approx 5" x width of muff with 2 outlets.
Entire SS exterior (assuming it's SS although magnets attract to it) is sandblasted; should polish out nicely.

Sparky
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Xgecko
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ref. SS and magnatism. Big Discussion/argument a while back on this topic...Some SS magnetic, some not. Magnetism (or the lack of it) not a qualification for SS.
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Mikep
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

XB9R Side Stand Modification:

OOPS ! ! ! (See next post) My Word document did not work!

Here is a Word document to show how I modified my XB side stand to be less likely to fold up when parked.

DO NOT LEAVE BIKE IDLING UNATTENDED!

mikep
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Mikep
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

XB9R Side Stand Modification:

I was unable to upload the Word document! Too BIG! Here is a jpeg to show how I modified my XB side stand to be less likely to fold up when parked.

DO NOT LEAVE BIKE IDLING UNATTENDED!

mikep

image/pjpegSide Stand
side_stand_04.jpg (30 k)
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Archer
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't know about ya'll but I'm not taking anything seriously from a site called CITYBIKE.
Just from their name, what would they know about a badass backroad corner carver?

City bike ........that's a moped right???
*scratches head*
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Elvis
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm amazed at the legs of this "sidestand idling" issue. Since I was sixteen, I was taught not to idle the bike on the sidestand. At the time, I was told something like: The oil doesn't coat the cylinders properly if the engine runs for extended periods while leaned. I don't know if this is true or not, but most bikes shut off when you extend the sidestand. Whether this is to prevent engine wear or prevent the bike from falling over, I've never heard anyone suggest that it is a good idea to idle with the sidestand down.
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Henrik
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The kickstand kill is to prevent you from riding off with the kickstand down.

Henrik
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Darthane
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Points of note:

On my Firebolt, I found two wear points that concerned me.

The first is the lower belt guard rubbing against the belt. I think this has been mentioned before. I fixed it my grinding out the indented section of the guard and then using a pocketknife and file to smooth it out. I only ground the outside part of it off, leaving the bottom to protect the belt from road debris.

The second is the underside of the stock seat rubbing through the boot and insulation covering the positive battery terminal. Mine had gone all the way through to the copper. Ground off the offending piece from the seat underside and covered up the exposed copper.

Just letting y'all know. Might want to check these on yours.

Bryan
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Paroyboy
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Question about the race muffler: If the muffler is all that I was going to install, does the TPS need to be reset or any other settings messed with? If it has to go to the shop anyway, I might as well go for the whole kit. Thanks for any info
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Kcfirebolt
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mikep,

Thanks for the post. 3 weeks to late. I made the mistake three weeks ago. I thought it was a good thing to warm the bike up before riding. I didn't know I had to baby sit it too.

Fortunately it only cost me $70 in parts to replace the left mirror, clutch handle, turnsignal, peg feeler, bent bar and end cap. Pretty reasonable I thought.

Still it was heartbreaking to hear it fall, and be out of commission for so long. I will try this fix right away because my heart (and wallet) can't take another spill like that. Thanks for the post (did it happen to you too?.

KCFirebolt
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Donald
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can anybody who has install the race kit, tell me if thier fan comes on while the engine is running? My race ecm only allows the fan to run in the off position.
Is this normal? I do not want hurt the motor.
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Spiderman
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 12:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The fan is supposed to run while the bike runs i can here my friends while we are stoped at a light and his bike is running. Take your bike to the dealer ASAP so you don't ruin your bike. But check the fuses first, just in case. ;)
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Mikep
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Kcfirebolt,

1. My XB has not fallen off its side stand, I simply modified mine to provide a bit of peace of mind.
2. I warm up any vehicle by letting it idle for 30 sec, and then driving it gently for the first mile or so.
3. Sorry to hear yours fell over.

mikep
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Donald, what might be happening is that the engine runs cooler because the race ECM presumeably does not run as lean, i.e. hot, as the stocker. So the engine runs below the fan-on temperature point with the race ECM when the bike is running.

With ignition off the fan always turns on when the temp sensor reads +300 F. something and turns off when it goes below 300, maybe 285, I can't remember but they're in the SM. I don't know what the ignition-on/fan-on temp point is though. Anybody know?

Sparky
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Darthane
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sparky,

Fan ON Fan OFF
Key ON 220C/428F 180C/356F
Key OFF 170C/338F 150C/302F

I have noticed that mine doesn't come on as much as it did before the race kit was installed, but on warm days (80+) after riding for a while it still comes on. If it isn't coming on at all you either live somewhere pretty darned cool or there is something wrong.

Bryan
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