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Archive through July 15, 2020Dennis_c30 07-15-20  03:59 pm
Archive through April 29, 2020Mhpalin30 04-29-20  09:22 pm
         

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Throttle_monkey1
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2020 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Dennis, the TPS is 2.0 at idle. The area where Iím having problems is the 3.5-4.0% range.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2020 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do you have any codes?
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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, July 17, 2020 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for the hell of it, before you tear into the ECM ground point on the left side of the engine, try running a separate wire from a good ground point on the engine, directly to the negative post on the battery.
It may or may not make a difference, but it smoothed out the low rpm part throttle performance of my CR considerably.
I used a 12 gauge wire.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on July 17, 2020)
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Throttle_monkey1
Posted on Friday, July 17, 2020 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Panshovevo- Iíll give that a try today. Thanks for the tip!

Dennis I had a bunch of codes relating to fuel pressure and baro sensor, I think they were from my fuel pump work and pulling sensors. Iíve cleared them and they have not returned.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rob, if you want to check the ground point on the side of the cylinder, it can be done without rotating the engine. Itís kind of a bear getting to it, but itís easier than dropping the engine.

As I recall, I removed the left pod, and maybe the the backing plate/radiator. Not certain about the latter, itís been a while.
Seems like I disconnected the ECM wiring, and shifted the wire bundle to get clearance to get a 10 mm wrench up to the bolt.
If anyone has a better recollection than mine, feel free to contribute to the discussion.
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Professorbarnhouse
Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I cleaned up the grounds on my bikes I used a scotchbrite pad and noalox grease, you can get it in the electrical section of Home Depot, Its used on aluminum wire on house electrical entrances.
Aluminum is a great conductor, unfortunately when exposed to oxygen a layer of aluminum oxide forms which is an insulator.
The grease keeps the layer of oxide from forming and helps maintain a good connection to the frame.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not familiar with that particular grease, but many greases act as an insulator.
When I use grease, I clean the surfaces thoroughly, assemble and tighten to spec, then cover the assembly with high temp waterproof grease.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2020 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@Throttle monkey1
Any news?
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Stevel
Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2020 - 06:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for your information all petroleum products are superb insulators. that includes oils and greases. If my memory is correct, I think the number 50 micro Siemens per meter conductance +/-. In order for greases and oils to be a conductor, other ingredients need to be added.
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Professorbarnhouse
Posted on Friday, July 31, 2020 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Definitely, use something formulated for electrical connections Noalox, Oxguard, there are a lot of different brands.
They're conductive and they keep the connection from oxidizing.
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Throttle_monkey1
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2020 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys, thanks for the tips! I just got home from vacation in the mountains with tons of twisty roads. I didnít bring the bike because Iím fed up with it. I added a ground, with no change. Iím going to attempt to reach the engine ground without dropping the engine. Iíd like to fiddle around with tunerpro to figure out how add fuel to that area of the map in 5% increments to see if there is any change.

User Stimbrell was kind enough to take my barkers map and add stock fuel trim and ignition timing to it. It didnít make a difference.

I was farting around with ECMdroid and was looking at some live data as I held it in that throttle position & RPM. Definitely drops RPM down to around 1500 and the spark goes nuts too, wondering if itís electrical or thatís just resultant. Gonna head out now and mess around.
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Throttle_monkey1
Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took the bike for a rip yesterday after setting the AFVs to 106 and it seemed to run better, it was a hot day (30C) and when I got stuck in traffic it seemed to run worse. Figured that the IAT was reading a higher than actual ambient air temp because of no air flow. My brain came up with a theory that the ECM leaned out the A/F mix a bit which made it cut out more at that RPM range.

I decided to try to trick the ECM. Instead of messing around with resistors, I pulled the IAT from where itís mounted and had my wife hold it in a bottle of water from the fridge while I started the bike. It was reading 3C so I figured if it ran worse at an elevated air temp the ECM should fatten the A/F mixture at a low temp and the bike should run better if it is a lean condition causing this. Tried holding it at that RPM range in neutral and it still popped and hesitated. So much for that theory.

After that I decided to pull the left pod and get at that engine ground as per Panshovevoís recommendation of getting at it without rotating the engine.

As Iím pulling the bolts for the left pod I notice the fuel pump priming. Weird. I put a new fuel pump in and have checked primed pressure and running pressure probably 30 times since I put the new pump in. Go into diagnostic mode and pressure is dropping fast. Goes from 550 down to 200 real quick. I grabbed the fuel line from where it goes into the block where the fuel pressure sensor and pushed it hard into the block and the fuel pressure instantly jumped up to mid 400s. The engine was very hot when I was doing this.

Iím gonna let it cool down and see if it keeps doing it. It starts fine and runs at around 440 kPa. Could a brand new factory Buell fuel pump assembly be toast after putting on 500 miles all summer?

Oh yeah I took a vid to show you:

https://youtu.be/AMnXsulY2oY
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Throttle_monkey1
Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another update- pump wasnít priming nearly as much (almost not at all) when cold when I cycled the ignition. I finished ripping the left pod apart and checked the engine ground. It was tight. I was able to tighten it slightly, like a couple degrees.

Went for a ride and it was 17 degrees and bike ran worse in that RPM range. Who knows? I decided to head out to the back roads so I wasnít in stop and go traffic and I was wheelying everywhere. Itís like a dirt bike. The handling is great too. I did notice a whirring/whistling noise coming from the left pod area when the rpms are coming down when coasting to stop. I heard it a few weeks ago and brushed it off as a squeaky rotor. Now Iím thinking itís wind hitting the pod or something rotor related. I think Iím over thinking this.

Question- when you pull the cover to check the stator/rotor are you normally able to reuse the gasket or does it self destruct?
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Xbuell12s
Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That gasket needs to be replaced.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2020 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a gasket you can use if you have to order one just give me the one you order.
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