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Archive through July 06, 2013Clutchreaper30 07-06-13  10:37 pm
         

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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's dropping... early stages of death. The pressure HAS to remain steady.

I am currently 15-20HP down, looking for a solution.
NO fuel pressure related codes but thinking fuel pump since I am on #3.
Spec pressure always there for idle, not so for "key on-motor off".
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Clutchreaper
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shit. Did your ECM have the low fuel pressure error on it when you sent it to me? I started it up in diag mode right away and it had that error on it so I assumed it was from Loretta. Now, after reading that, I think my bike threw that code. Lol.

So....if it's dropping below 500 then it's on its way out? Gaaaaaaawwwwwwwwdddddd!!!
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

maybe yes.
I think I remember a pressure code from when I ran low.

What's important is real-time when in key on-motor off and then in run mode.

If it's the pump, there are options. in the $100 range.
I also have a theoretical fix for LFL/CEL combo error... no confirm yet.

Z
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Clutchreaper
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just checked it with key on, kill switch to run, and it stayed about 517 for a couple of minutes before ever so slowly dropping. I remember it falling faster in the past.

I'll take it for a ride tomorrow to warm it up and test again. Maybe it only acts up when warmed up. I'll report back.
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Deanh8
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just got my EBR ECM, also california gas. Bike runs better, but not good.

Put it on a dyno yesterday, 14:1 AFR, 120whp/68ftlbs of torque.

I have TM Velocity Stacks, Barker Exhaust, K&N EBR ECM
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Ljm
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 03:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll be interested to see what you find is the problem. I have this same issue on one of my bikes, and when it was on warranty (out now) fuel pump replaced. BTW, has EBR ECM and stock can. Started doing it again. Can go back to the stock ecm but open to ideas here.
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Clutchreaper
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And the weiner is......... (drum roll)............fuel pump!

Took it out today and gave it a quickie. Ended up running too hot because when I was doing lobotomies yesterday one of the left fan wires got pulled out of connection and I had no idea until I ended up burning my legs on the frame. CT hit 231 when I pulled into the garage, yay.

Anyways, while I had the bike out I would shut it off and test the fuel pressure at key on engine off. It would start at 530 and fall rapidly down to the 200s. Now, I need parts, a shop, time, etc.

Had I asked around a long time ago and inquired about the fuel pressure at engine off I would have diagnosed the cause way sooner. However, the manual does not specify that the pressure needs to hold and that was what I was going off of. Oh well.

Thanks to everybody who chimed in. Big thanks to Zack for the help.
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Pgh_biker
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so to recap what should my fuel pressure read in Diag mode with key on bike off? and should that value stay there or does it drop? and then start it where should it be? and what about revving it to 400K? Mine is acting like it is running out of fuel around 5 to 5500 and will run ok at 4000 rpm. I am suspecting fuel pump as I got a low pressure code.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The service manual says it should be around 517 kPa at ignition on, and 380-415
kPa with the engine running idle and 4000 RPM.

A very slow pressure drop with the engine off is normal, not a rapid drop.

A low pressure code may or may not be a red heiring, simply having a low amount of gas in the tank can trigger that as the pump may have a harder time picking up fuel as it is sloshing around. If you have a full tank and are getting that while riding, you likely have a pump issue.
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Azxb9r
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One more thing to keep in mind about fuel pumps in regards to driveability problems. You can have adequate pressure, but low volume. It is a good idea to do volume tests when trying to diagnose a fuel pump, and doing a comparison from cold to hot will generally be the most revealing.
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Clutchreaper
Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One thing to notice is how your bike starts, and it finally dawned on me yesterday as I was watching the pressure drop. If the key is on for about a minute and you crank it over it should pop off hard. Not like my bike did where it stumbled to life. That was the first thing it did when I noticed the problem, and I thought it was fouled plugs because I was constantly riding around RA and shutting the bike down. I remember starting the bike and it sputtered to life and I thought, "That was weird." Ever since that moment it ran like puke.

When it started in the same manner yesterday as I was watching the pressure drop it brought me right back to that moment at RA.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jesse (Clutchreaper), the owners manual specifically states to turn the ignition on and wait until the diagnostics finish running, about 30 seconds and then hit the start button, each time you start it cold. My '08 has always fired so fast you can hardly hear the starter motor turn. I suppose it pressurizes the fuel lines and they loose pressure when standing for a while. 2008 1125R, my own pipe, K&N & EBR'S first series of race ECM's custom made for those items. I even sent them all the pipe dimensions. No problems yet, knock wood!
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General_tso
Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutchreaper,

Thanks for starting the thread and following through with the updates. I hope I don't experience this but will know how to recognize it thanks to this thread.

What a great community.

Zac.... Very generous of you.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't want to sound all mushy, but this Buell group is the BEST people on this planet.
Been a "biker" most of my life, but no better"brotherhood" than here. I love the BadWeB. Thanks again Blake.

If you show up at 6pm at my shop and are having mech issues, I'll get you fixed or give you a place to stay until you're back OTR.

I have 5 tats and only ONE name - Buell





Zack
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