| Author | Message | ||
     Believer |
So I was searching for that problem but didn't find the right answer. When I turn the key to on everything is OK, the lights are normally on, the display is also normally on. But when I hit the start button the engine starts normally, voltage is 13.2V but on display it says System Voltage Error, then it says Comm Error and my lights and display are start flashing. The bike runs normally but all lights are flashing, the voltage is still between 13 and 13.5V Where is the problem? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Comm Error means a problem with the IC's connection to the ECM on the CAN bus. Either an open(broken wire or bent pin) or a missing terminator. The only CAN bus terminator I'm aware of is in the left pod by the ECM. Same as the one used to stub out "the Noid". Is the 13.2 volts showing on the display or are you using a voltmeter? Z | ||
| Two_seasons |
If you have had the ECM disconnected, it may be that you are not fully connected with either connector at the ECM. The harness is very tight at the ECM and it may be that you need to disconnect both connectors and then reconnect them again. As this is not a mechanical issue, I'd ride it and then start manually logging what is happening during that ride. (Message edited by two_seasons on April 07, 2013) | ||
| Tsnake |
I had the same issue. Go to dealer and flash your ecm to the lastest calibration. It's not a recall, but kinda of.(to all 09 bikes before JAN 09, I think) btw, I dont know if this gonna damage the ecm, they put a new in mine and flashed it, so... (Message edited by tsnake on April 07, 2013) | ||
| Believer |
I did have a bike apart so i will take a look for the connections again. The voltage is the same on the display and on voltmeter. The bike runs normally except that lights and display are flashing. | ||
| Believer |
I tried every connection but it's still the same. Comm error. Except the System Voltage error doesn't show anymore. So I still don't know why my lights and display are flashing | ||
| Believer |
So i figured that out. When i disconnect the below connector the lights and display stop flashing and everything looks good. But when i connect it back it starts flashing again. Is it the VR?  | ||
| Dannybuell |
that could be the regulator or a part of the harness leading to/from the regulator. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBYEYGJfyBw&feature =youtu.be | ||
| Jbarron |
If it is an 09 with the charging harness fix, then you might try bypassing the harness fix to see if the relay is bad. Hopefully that is all it is. | ||
| Believer |
It is 2010 CR without the harness fix. Everything was working OK until last year. Then it was sitting in the garage for one year, now that I put it back together, I have that problem. What's going to happen if that cable is not connected? (Message edited by beLIever on April 09, 2013) | ||
| Believer |
And I've found another thing. I can connect the above connector but I have to disconnect the below one which i understand it is going out of the regulator. And i measured the voltage on that connector and it shows almost 0. So probably is the regulator which doesn't work. Or is there anything else that could be wrong?  | ||
| Two_seasons |
If you don't have an electrical manual, you can get one from your local HD dealer or American Sport Bike. That looks like some heavy gage wire. | ||
| Believer |
First, thank you all for your help and also for a member who sent me the PM with electrical manuals. But I still can't determine what is my problem! Today I have ridden for a few miles (kilometers) and the voltage on the display was showing from 13.1 -14.3V up and down, up and down, quite quickly (I actually didn't have any stops). So the voltage is not only dropping but it's also getting higher - so the charging system should work. Is it possible that I don't have enough load on regulator. I took away all original lights and now I have only LED's for day use (for about 8W in front and maybe 10W in the back. All other lights (night driving (hi/low xenon projectors) and auxiliary 30W led's) are wired on the battery with relays. Do I try to put some more loads? | ||
| Baf |
The connector in that picture is the regulator output. I'm not sure if you'll get any meaningful reading on its output when it's not hooked up (it may even be bad for the regulator, I'm not sure). If either of the two connectors you've posted are disconnected, it'll run fine, but you won't be charging. You'll ride for a little while until the ECM, lights, and fans suck the battery dead, then you'll be stranded. | ||
| Baf |
I don't think having too little load would cause this issue. Even if the regulator isn't being loaded enough for some reason, the battery should prevent the lights from coming on and off. Maybe you have defective LEDs or something. If you want more load on the electrical system, let it idle for a few minutes until the fans kick on. That's a decent sized load. | ||
| Believer |
LEDs are not defective. They shine good when the engine is turned off. They only flash when the engine is on - and only back license plate LEDs and display LEDs. Other LEDs are OK. And the battery is charging good. I went for another ride and the battery is between 14.1 - 14.5V I really don't get it!!! | ||
| Baf |
Are you still getting the sys voltage error or comm error? | ||
| Believer |
No more system voltage error and no more comm error. Everything looks good except that lights are still flashing. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Are the lights flashing possibly connected with "theft error" message? I know when I had my comm and ecm disconnected (troubleshooting a fan issue), then tried to start the bike w/o connections, it gave me a theft error message. Once connected, it went away and did start. | ||
| Pgh_biker |
Is there any AC voltage riding on the DC? put your multimeter on the AC range to check if there is any AC when your lights are flashing. | ||
| Bernhardgrave |
I had what sounds like the same issue and in tracking it down with my multimeter I discovered two things: -that the voltage reading my IC gives is late to catch up to what the system is actually at and can be a as much as .4V off when stable, enough so it can really only be used as a proximity estimate -The Com Error, System Voltage, limp tach needle and backlighting dropping out all happened when the actual system voltage went higher than 14.7 ~ 14.8V, and as I said, the IC would be reporting voltage in the sub 14.5 range. long story short, my "fix"-harness was keeping the VR from regulating somehow and I was seeing spikes up to 18V, and when I removed it all was fine again. after words I was still getting the low chargelamp on during long periods of stop and go traffic, so I fixed that by replacing the VR with a CE-605SB, and have not had any issues since | ||
| Believer |
Hmmm. The voltage is really at about 14.5V but i can't measure the spikes with my voltmeter because it is not that fast. I can't get ce-605sb and don't know what to get for replacement. I have shorai 18Ah battery but the problem is the same as with original one. No it doesn't look i would have any QC voltage but i will try to measure it again. I am so sooooo sad.... | ||
| Bernhardgrave |
I have the same 18Ah Shorai too, and determined first thing that it was not the culprit by swapping out with the regular battery I keep around for emergencies. A good multimeter pay's for itself many times over the first time you use it and solve an electrical mystery by keeping you from buying parts that aren't needed. Did I every tell you about the $150 10amp blade fuse...? | ||
| Believer |
I don't understand. Are you trying to say that the battery is not good. But i tried with the original too and the problem is the same. I think that the problem is in regulator and i am thinking about buying ce-605sb. And i bought the shorai because there is not enough place under my xb tail and i have a lot of auxiliary loads. So i did look a little more on my problem and figured that: all lights are flashing but not that much as display and number plate leds. It is the same if i connect the light on battery. And everything is happening only when the engine is running. I measured with my multimeter and figured that the regulator is giving me too much voltage - 14.5v is too much right? So i believe now that the regulator is my problem. Am i wrong? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Sure sounds like your battery is fine but the R/R is dying. Have you checked the AC output from the stator? Z | ||
| Bernhardgrave |
Believer, I said the Shorai battery is NOT the problem. In my case, the symptoms were of a bad regulator. But when I removed the relay harness that was the H-D "fix" for frying stators, the crazy tachometer behavior stopped. I have not bothered to track down what was wrong with the "fix harness", because I no longer need to... that was all. | ||
| Believer |
Ok so I was thinking the right way :-) I never had the harness relay and I just ordered ce-605sb regulator. And I am also buying the whole fix (stator/rotor) from Twin Motorcycles. I was just wondering what is now with the whole kit from EBR (will it be "the same"?). I really hope this will fix my problem. I'll be now 3 or 4 weeks without my bike.... but the weather is soooo nice :-( p.s.: AC output from stator looks good | ||
| Bernhardgrave |
Since your AC output is ok, install the ce-605sb and ride! with luck, you won't need the stator/rotor fix at all, and hopefully if it does fail it will happen the day before your first snow of winter...2025. |
