| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
anyone know where to get one? EBR is out of stock and I have a modded rotor on the way! | ||
| Froggy |
Your favorite Buell dealer can order one if they don't have it on the shelf. | ||
| Tbowdre |
Yeah sure. I was hoping for an alternative... bearing supply house, ace hardware, i dunno. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Todd, it's a pretty specific nut. Also, since it was originally designed for 250# and now gets 300#, it is a one-use-only part. Too much stress on the threads and the material yields, so they say not to re-use. info@ebracing also said they are trying to get more from their supplier, a couple of days ago when I asked. Z | ||
| Baf |
It is not strictly a one-use-only part. When I spoke with EBR, they told me that they recommend a new nut if one is readily accessible, but it isn't usually necessary. I was told that, unless the nut has loosened up and needed retorquing, that they are fine for a few reuses. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Interesting, I just asked last week and the response was the metal yields at 300# and the nut should NOT be re-used. Exact words were "the rotor nut is highly stressed at the high torque level required and so material yielding happens. We really recommend replacing it." Didn't get a name, just Tech Support, Erik Buell Racing Zack | ||
| Drhodes1970 |
I was told by Danny at EBR that you do not have to replace that nut everytime. Thet use the same one 2 or 3 times on their race motors. | ||
| Tbowdre |
Thanks for the replys! I would like to replace mine but I am reluctant to go to my local H-D boutique and spend money unless I have to... shipping a simple nut seems silly too. I might just pull mine off and see if someone, somewhere can match it | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Presuming this is the first time you're getting your nut off (couldn't let that go by) it was most likely stretched (?) at the old much lower torque spec (forget that number right now). I'd think that if you use a fair amount of thread locker and go 300lbs you're good. Just don't go nuts with the locker and block the oil holes in the crank or rotor. And as a street bike you're not in the upper third of the rev range all the time so that's easier on things too. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
I wouldn't buy it unless it is from ebr or a harley dealer. Don't go to ace and try to buy a replacement rotor nut. Remember, if this thing backs off u can lock the rear wheel. Its NOT worth messing around with. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I don't have an old nut or I'd look at it under one of my microscopes. Getting conflicting advice from EBR tells me: 1)you CAN get away with re-using the nut once or twice but NO more. 2) If you can source one easily and it doesn't break the bank, get a new one and use the old one as a fishing sinker. The 2 OEM ones I have removed have a lot of wear rubs on the face against the rotor. I will NOT re-use them on my bike or anyone's I work on. Race bikes get torn down a LOT more than our street machines. Makes sense to try to get every minute of use out of each part... as long as you don't get DNFs at the races. Todd - if you want I can see if High Country has one and send it to you.... Zack | ||
| Battyone |
can someone tell me why this nut is such an issue? the rotor is on splines,it's not going anywhere,so why on earth does it need 300ftlb? What's the real issue? And seeing as the crank locking notches are on the opposite flywheel,how good is all that load through the big end journal? | ||
| Sparky |
AFAIK, racing these bikes has shown that the nut can loosen and cause collateral damage. That's why the torque spec and procedures for installing the rotor changed for '10. I believe the EBR 1190s use the higher torque also. Racing improves the breed. | ||
| Froggy |
Even gently ridden bikes have had the nut come loose. |
