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Rogue4
Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's the story. I bought a '09 CR with 750 miles on it about three months ago. EBR ECM and HMF exhaust when on around the 3,000 mile mark. Stator lasted until 3,400 miles and has been replaced with the discontinued EBR stator/rotor kit. The bike now has around 4,000 miles on the clock.

I just got back from a long trip where I started noticing changes in how the bike was running. Very hard cold and hot starts, backfiring or popping on decel, loss of power, bogging down on hard acceleration, popping on acceleration, etc. The front end used to come up with a blip of the throttle in first and now it won't even think about it. The bike also stalls or dies when riding around town. It dies as if I'm not giving it enough gas. I'm inclined to believe that I'm running lean though. MPG is horrible. 16-18 in town and maybe 30 on the highway. The second part of the story though is that I'm very hard on my bikes. I ride them like they're supposed to be ridden and expect a little extra maintenance but it seems like I'm having way too many problems for a bike with the low mileage. Any idea where to start? I would like to check AFV's but am unsure how to do so.
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Father_of_an_era
Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you try a TPS reset? Maybe a faulty ECM?
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Boogiman1981
Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

tps reset if not better after that:

make sure battery is fully charged then get it properly load tested.

following that double then triple check your grounds.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2012 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...have to agree with boogie - what condition is the battery?...and the terminal connection...they been known to loosen
can you put the IC (Inst Clustr) in a mode to display voltage? or Buy a cheap voltmeter and check the voltage before starting and after.
Note most CPUs (Central Processing unit) ( the brains inside the ECU ( Engine Control Unit) run on 3VDC - they don't like 2.9VDC or 3.1VDC - if they see a variance in voltage ....they hit the reset button.
Like on older GM products that have ECUs that controlled Fuel and spark timing ...if the ECU saw a voltage drop ...it would go into "safe" mode - with enough "power to get you home"...sounds like that's happened to you!
I would also check the connector that plugs into the ECU - it's very dense and has a lot of wires/contacts - if you're a hard rider...maybe you shook some loose...make sure they are ALL pushed in and "locked" into the connector body.
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Brumbear
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2012 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+2 to the Boogieman
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S21125r
Posted on Friday, June 08, 2012 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+3 to boogie as well. If all of his tests pass and still not running good then hold both cluster buttons down and turn the key to the on position. This will put it in diag mode and you can toggle through to find your front and rear AFVs. Should also be able to see any current/historical trouble codes while in diag mode too. Report back with your AFV numbers and any codes and we can try to help narrow it from there.
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Rogue4
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2012 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looked at AFV's, 100/100. Did a TPS reset, still having the same problems. Hard starting, sputtering, dieing etc. I also cleaned the battery terminals yesterday when I installed a fender eliminator. Voltage has been great since installing EBR rotor and stator. I'm stuck on what to do next.
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2012 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the ground on the bottom of the frame next to the rear shock. 10 mm nut, you can get at it with a swivel extension.
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Battyone
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 04:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check sensor grounds.Made mine run like a dog.

Can just check them at the ecm socket.
When mine played up it was the ecm socket that needed cleaning not the earth tabs on the motor.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am pretty sure this ECM has no safe mode.
Every DTC I've seen has been info only, no change to running state.
If you overheat or over-rev, the ECM will skip-spark tho I haven't heard of that being a continuous reaction.

Loretta is having "issues" right now so I'll look for trouble in these spots too, thanks for ideas. : )
First check for me is cam chain tensioners...

<edit> Looking at your issues again, check your fuel pressure in Diag Mode.
Should be 517kPa at key on/motor off and 380-415 kPa when running.

Z

(Message edited by zac4mac on June 11, 2012)
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 07:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

does it have a cali can on it?
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Rogue4
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Found part of the problem. I was out of town on business on my bike about 400 miles away from home. Stator went out so I had my wife mail the EBR kit that I had laying around to the nearest HD dealer. I took the bike there to get fixed. I guess they didn't like how close the HMF pipe was to the swing arm and decided a pipe wrench could fix it. When I was checking the ground earlier that Dean mentioned I noticed my pipe all marred up. I had a pretty good exhaust leak. Anyway that's a whole story in itself. I checked the ground and cleaned it, everything looked fine. Fixed the exhaust leak and that has cured all of the popping/backfiring. Helped the power a bit but I'm still not where I used to be. It still takes 4-5 tries to fire it up. When it is started it dies when I put it in first without ever letting the clutch out. But when I get it warmed up it runs fine. Just finished a 50 mile ride.

I did have a P0193 code. I have no idea how old it is but I'm currently looking into that. Thanks for the help guys.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do another TPS reset.

It will takes 50 start cycles to clear the DTC(s).
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S21125r
Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think at this point i would go back to stock can and stock ECM as a test to see if that makes a difference.

Alternate option would be to get Tuner Pro and a cable so that you can flight record a session to review offline with other board members to see if we can spot any obvious issues.

If all else fails then you might try sending an email to EBR with your symptoms, and exactly what you tested so far, and ask nicely what other things you should be checking.
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Rogue4
Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I have the problem figured out. It's the HMF exhaust. It's not providing enough back pressure to start the motor. If I cover the exhaust with my hand it fires right up. When I take my hand away it usually dies. Repeat the process a few times and it will run by itself but still dies from time to time when taking off in first. I've been trying to get a hold of Danny or Mike at EBR for 2 weeks now to no avail. I guess I just need to trash the HMF and go with a Barker or something else. I'm sure I'll need to send the ECM in to get re-flashed but with the current communication issues I'm having with EBR there's no telling how long that might take. All in all this whole ordeal has pissed me off to the point that the bike might be gone in the near future.

I can't seem to get a decent Buell. My XB12R motor blew up at 8,000 miles.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rogue - who works on your Buells?
My brother tells me Cowboy in Austin is the best he's found.
Central Texas, no; Mancuso, no.

Zack
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Rogue4
Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cowboy in Austin rebuilt my old XB12r. I had ok experiences with them. As mentioned earlier I was out of town on business in Beaumont TX so I had the Cowboy dealership there do the stator job. Less than pleased.
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Crabby
Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 03:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just got my Buell back from a Stator replacement and its running like shit as well. Going to go to town on the Battery
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