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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through March 15, 2012 » Looking at an '08 1125R « Previous Next »

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S3t
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm headed out to look at an '08 this weekend.....I see the threads on the clutch puck issues....is the American Sport Bike kit a good PERMANENT fix????? I have 2 tubers that have really been trouble free, and I've avoided the 1125's because of the bad press they received.... so what other costly issues would I be inheriting.....??? thanks IN ADVANCE S3T
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A. '09 and '10 have alternator issues
B. '08 have issues with the clutch slave
c. '08 can have a parasitic drain from IC if not shut down correctly
D. '08 turn signals ( rear )
I suggest that you buy the FSM and electrical manuals

Tremendous performance smooth ride largely trouble free imagine a tuber that winds out to 10K With Xb handling & Suspension

good luck
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D_adams
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EBR clutch actuator - $99
Otherwise, dealer updates fix most issues except for lean fueling. EBR race ecm fixes that. I'm only at 27k miles myself, but I'm sitting pretty fat and happy at the moment. Riding season is about to commence, it's supposed to be in the 70's all next week. : )
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Dannybuell
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an S1 with 96,000 miles and a CR with 16,000 miles. The hardest part for me to learn was the 1125 engine needs RPM's to be happy. The Buell Sportster and the Buell Rotax is like comparing a 454 chevy engine to a 327 chevy engine. Riding at 4,000 rpm's is the low end of happy for an 1125. If you are prepared for that, your ownership experience will be fine.

American Sport Bike and EBR are your best bet for just about anything your bike may need.
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Rsh
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coming from an ST3 and X1, the 1125R will seem small in size. Other ride issues you will notice, clutch lever engagement will seem odd, as it does not engage until most of the way out, the motor is quick revving, you will probably stall it when taking off a number of times till you get the hang of it. You will initially ride it like your Harley based bikes by short shifting, the motor starts coming on at 5,000 rpm about when the harley motor is dying off. The rear brake lever is awkward at first especially if you have larger feet, the clutch cover sticks out right in front of the toe piece. Depending on the outside temperature and how long you ride the 1125R, you maybe bothered by the heat it puts out, the frame actually gets hot.

Besides the above have fun...the 1125R hauls ass.

(Message edited by rsh on March 09, 2012)
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Nizzle99
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the first thing you will notice is rather than being fast enough to stay close to you buddys with 600 rockets is that you pull them bad all the way.
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Buellmojo
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Choose wisely...There are plenty of them available.
Probably a reason for that...
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the first 1125R in Colorado. 18DEC07, #154 built the first week of November 2007.
Loretta has over 28k miles now, would be more but I've got an 09 Uly too, with 26k miles.
The first year, I took a trip to South Texas and 2 months later went to Homecoming in Wisconsin.

She's never left me stranded and with the EBR ECM, goes to 11 (krpm).

My profile lists most of the mods/farkles.
The Uly is my "P/U Truck" and Loretta is The Hot Rod.

You may not feel the same, but I think Loretta is the most fun vehicle I have ever owned.
She is a HOOT in the hills on a warm weekday.

Zack
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Ponti1
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep...2008 1125R here with 26k miles. no problems except initial couple rear turn signals going out. Buell realized/rectified the situation, and by now any replacement you buy would pretty much have to be the "good" edition.

No other issues to report, except a drop from the weep hole on the clutch puck every couple tanks of gas.

I may be wrong, but I am willing to bet that there was never a tuber built that has a reliability percentage as high as an 1125R. Not bashing the tube-frame Buells at all(I hope to have a 98 S1W one day), but just putting things in perspective.
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S3t
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

some REALLY REALLY good info and insight guys - thanks......interesting array of issues throughout the forum...makes me concerned. The bike I looked at has no clutch lever pressure - (was the 1st thing I went for)so that'll require remedy. battery was completely dead - understandable since the bike has been sitting for months. Next week I'm gonna have the bike taken out and dusted off so we can see if it'll start. I can have a dealer check the electrical to confirm functionality....., but is that even worth doing???
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Buell_rida
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Had most of the issues on my '08 that were listed. All taken care of under warranty. Bike now has 23,000 on it. She has hauled me to Chicago and back(2,250 miles)with no issues, even on a day that was 110 deg sitting in traffic. Put on an aftermarket pipe of your choosing and a race ECM, and have one of the most unique bikes out there.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$250 worth of parts and you're worried?

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html

I had my 1125r for three months, put a 2,500 mile trip together with my 12 year old son. Hadn't ridden for 23 years. Didn't think to worry about the unknown. And did not have any problems either.

My clutch is weeping slowly. I could have took it in for warranty, but as the link above illustrates, I can do it myself for the lousy $100. From what I've read, it's a better part too.

Take that battery to a battery shop and they may be able to bring it back to life.
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Rsh
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once you get a decent battery, you can do a thumbnail electrical test yourself, the gage cluster reads voltage, that will tell you if the electrical system is charging or not.
As for the clutch lever not having any pressure, you will have to try and bleed the circuit, hopefully it's not leaking so bad that the actuator seals need to be replaced immediately before the clutch will be operational.
Another item to check is the belt, you already know what to look for.
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S3t
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

most excellent - thanks guys.....
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Daggar
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buy it, man! I've got around 31k on my 08 and still love it.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

to add to to old dogs list
e) wheel bearings
f) rear brake caliper
g)drive belt (usually brought on by wheel brgs)
h)ignition switch (lack of wiring "free play")
i)some had water pump issues
j)rear shock spring too stiff ( for some)

the rear brg permanent fix is a new rear wheel and (3) bearings to support it...kinda costly...keep and eye on them and the belt tracking (it'll tip you off about the brgs)

but with all of it's short comings the bike is unique ( and fast - especially if you use it for the road - a "fun" bike to ride fast)
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Rockstarblast1
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is the correct way to shut down the bike if im reading that right? Because that's the only issue I have and they have replaced everything on my bike down to the ic to an 09. And it still leaves me with a dead battery
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Buell_rida
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shut the bike off with the kill switch, and then shut the key off.
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