| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
I thought I'd take a few pics for posterity. Front View of the Engine rotated down.  A jumble of wires and hoses, and a rusty old muffler!  This is my first engine rotation and valve inspection. I just managed to remove the rear valve cover. It has taken me much longer as I ran into un-anticipated issues due to being a "virgin" at this procedure. Just removing the valve cover took a while until I realized I really needed to rotate the engine further to clear chassis parts. I must say, although it is challenging it's also a big learning experience. Having said that, I'm not happy to be doing this or the fact that I have to do it. Why couldn't this design have been made to avoid this procedure? It's obvious how time consuming it is, plus the fact that having so little room to work with, even simple procedures that appear easy can become frustrating. It's no wonder the Buell/H-D dealers charge so much for this job! It's also obvious to me how quickly one can screw things up during the whole process. I'm worried my wiring harness is being stretched too much. Also, that muffler. WTF. No really! I'm not an engineer but I can clearly see that this muffler is simply a bad design. It's heavy and bulky, and has way too many nooks and crannies that like to collect road debris and encourage rust formation. I had originally thought of repainting this mass of black blob but I've decided not to do this at all. What's the point? I'm going to replace it with an aftermarket. I also removed the Active Intake Solenoid. I may as well get that EBC ECM to complete the upgrade while I have the whole thing apart. I am a bit disappointed at the design choices made on this bike--it really feels like they rushed it and/or they made too many sacrifices in the name of saving development $$ and put out a product to market. I still love the bike (hence the upgrades I plan to do). But Damn! It should not be this complicated! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Truth be told, the bike IS engineered to be worked on. It's a whole lot easier with a proper lift with a wheel lock. When it's time to rotate back up, add 50-100 lbs weight to the rear end. I use slabs of iron and 3 lead bricks I have from a nuclear reactor in Idaho, total weight ~130#. With your set-up, you will start to raise the bike before you get the mount holes to line up. Aside from weighing a ton, the muffler is very well engineered as exhaust makers found when trying to make power with theirs... Before I pulled mine, spraying it with BBQ paint was a regular maintenance step. My 1125R is 4 years old now and she is still my favorite rush. Z | ||
| D_adams |
Just imagine how much easier pulling off the exhaust would be with this.   Yes, it's a sound cannon, but it's also the closest in output to a full exhaust system but at less than 1/3 the price. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Assuming you considered the option of removing the entire frame assembly, what was the deciding factor for you to do the rotate way instead? | ||
| Phlegm |
I went with pulling the frame. Made it much easier to work on. Also allowed me too insulate the inside of the frame. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Duph, I don't have the tools to pull the frame off. I do agree, not having the dang frame in the way makes just about everything easy. The tough part is taking everything off and working in confined spaces. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Not to belabor the point, just wondering what tools are needed beyond what you've been able to do to this point? BTW, decent pussy stripes. (aka "maturity margins") (Message edited by duphuckincati on February 19, 2012) | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I'm doing this alone so not sure how I'm supposed to lift that frame off the motor without a hoist. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Rogue, I see in your picture you have not had the brake recall done. Your front brake line should be on the outside of your fork. The easy way to fix it is to take the master cylinder / lever assembly off, and pass it down and around the fork, then back up to the bar, leaving the brake line on the outside of the tube. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Here is a link to a picture of mine out in the garage right now. I am also going to service my forks, hence the front end off the bike. I don't know why, but I could not seem to get the picture to work in this comment. http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/pmjolly/mot orcycle%20stuff/?action=view¤t=IMG_0777.jpg | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
Rogue_biker, The frame pull is much easier. The frame is about 40 pounds, and can be pulled by one person. You can unbolt the subrame and slide it through the frame as you lift the frame off the bike, which will allow you to keep all of the electronics hooked up on the subframe. Also, you can unbolt the top triple tree and slide the forks/brake/front wheel off the bike in one piece, which saves a lot of time. As far as tools, I can't think of any special tools you would need to pull the frame. | ||
| Phlegm |
If you are worried about a hoist for lifting the frame, your arms will work well. The frame is actually very light, unless you have gas in it. I also strapped the motor to the floor jack between the cylinders. You also have to take off the front end. A little more work, but I enjoyed it. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I've not done mine yet, but I gotta figure the luxury of having the motor totally out in the open must offset the extra time/work to do the frame off. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Frame is 22 lbs. empty. isn't it awesome? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Lighter than the muffler. hahahahahahahahah  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Bad news. Not catastrophic but BAD. My lame Pep Boys scissor jack tilted over and dropped the motor against the front wheel! FUGGGGG!!!!!!! $%$&&^%&^&*(*& This is all my fault! I did not use a proper "wide floor jack" that the Service Manual recommended. The result, my engine is now sitting six inches from the ground and hanging on the front wheel! Some wires snapped (I think the horn wire ripped off because the female spade end got caught on something. The clutch line is being squeezed against the case....I'm freakin' pissed at myself! I now have to go to Sears and buy a proper wide floor jack that won't tip over. I may need to buy a new wiring harness. Result: this bike will not be on the road for a while. Thankfully, I have a second bike.  | ||
| D_adams |
Get a ratchet style set of tie downs, wrap around the motor and frame, crank it back up with the ratchet. I'd use the pair if they're long enough, crank one up, then set the other until you get the motor where you want it. | ||
| Pmjolly |
  Clickable thumbnail. Make sure the straps are attached securely to the rafters! I had mine fall off a standard Pitbull stand. I use these now. The rear is held by a Pitbull trailer restraint that is bolted down to the concrete with 3/8 drop in concrete anchors. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I used my big floor jack and a block of wood.  Z | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
took the frame off. strapped rear wheel down to trailer deck. left front end on the frame. takes two to do it that way but huge time saver. | ||
| Ducxl |
Wow!! Ducati's desmodromics are sooo much simpler to wrench. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Saved! For now! I got a more robust hydraulic jack and managed to carefully lift the motor off the floor, with a lot of help from the lovely wife! Whew! I now have to deal with a few pinched wires and the clutch line but at least it's not laying on the floor. Many lessons learned from this experience. |
