| Author | Message | ||
     1125rcya |
why should I use the kill switch to shut my bike off? I have owned several motorcycles, and not one have I ever used the kill switch EXCEPT my dirt bike. I have never encountered any problems from using the ignition switch | ||
| J_copeland |
I use the key ! | ||
| Froggy |
There was a bug in the older bikes that the ECM does not shut down properly if you shut off with the key instead of the ignition, and it would slowly drain your battery. I personally never experienced this. Also, MSF teaches you to shut off with the kill switch then key, its just faster and safer that way. A lot harder to screw up and do something stupid if the motor isn't running and you go to reach for the key. The XB Lightning has the key on the left side of the fairing mount, if you brainfart and don't get it into neutral, you are gonna be in a surprise when you let go of the clutch to reach for the key  | ||
| Zane_t |
I never use the kill switch myself, but they put it there for emergency situations such as having the bike tipped on its side, etc. It probably is a good habit to use it now and then so you know where it is when the need for it arises. | ||
| Nillaice |
the bike should cut itself off in a tipover. that's what the bank-angle-sensor is for | ||
| Badlionsfan |
My theory is they went thru the trouble putting it on the bike, the least I can do is use it. | ||
| 46champ |
You should shut the bike off with the kill switch every time. In an emergency you will use the device you practice with, you won't have time to think about it. In a real emergency you only get 1 chance to do it right. | ||
| Albert666 |
i was taught use the key | ||
| Jules |
It makes no diffeernce which you use, as stated earlier in the post the old 2008 parasytic draw issue did seem to be better if the kill switch was used but that's old news. The only thing I would say is that i have had bikes in the past that wouldn't start because the kill switch "failed"... i.e. looked to be se to "run" but didn't work. The failure was due to oxydisation on the contacts through lack of use, a quick clean up and it worked fine but the fault finding was a bit intersting the first time. Nowadays i then to go 50/50 between the two.. | ||
| Anakist |
I find the bike starts easier if I turn it off with the kill switch. James | ||
| Brumbear |
I use either or I like to use the key so I don't accisently leave the lights on and kill the battery. But when I come home late at night I use the kill switch to coast in to the driveway quite like  | ||
| Kinder |
I was taught kill switch then key. That way your hands are always on the controls while the bike is running just in case. The wiff was taught key only... She was also taught rear brake on till bike compresses suspension when launching even when not doing a hill start. She does neither now...  | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
I also found that my bike starts better if I use the kill switch also... I have the Erik Buell Racing ecu with a FMF and with the hot AZ summer it would often crank and not fire the first time. I started doing a tps reset before each start but it didn't really help. I had NEVER used the kill switch but a friend suggested trying it and for the last week it has started first try every time! Could be a coincidence but only more time will tell. | ||
| Milt |
MSF teaches to use the kill switch. I suspect they do that for the reasons 46Champ mentioned. | ||
| Dannybuell |
This muscle memory, habit can save your life as 46Champ stated. | ||
| Sparky |
Every time you interrupt an electrical current through a switch, a minute particle of the metal contacts gets eroded until the contacts fail to conduct current reliably. So, what would be cheaper to replace, a kill switch or an ignition switch? My vote would be to use the kill switch. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I would have never believed that my 08 1125r would experience this phenomenon. For the past couple of weeks, I've been wringing out the wiring as I have multiple DTC's showing. Through it all, I've had the ignition on and off many times. I did have the battery charger on it for a while early in this testing cycle. Last Sunday, I rode it for 30 minutes and low speed. Put it away for a week, unridden, with kill switch on the whole time. This morning I went to start it and noted kill switch on (which isn't the case, normally, when put away), ignition on and no lights, no IC light, nothing. Put it on the battery charger. Wow, almost dead. And it's still charging as I type. Moral of story. Put away with kill switch to off. And most importantly, start riding it more. | ||
| Jules |
Every time you interrupt an electrical current through a switch, a minute particle of the metal contacts gets eroded until the contacts fail to conduct current reliably. So, what would be cheaper to replace, a kill switch or an ignition switch? My vote would be to use the kill switch. That'd only be true if you used the kill switch and then left the ignition on...which you wouldn't. If you do use the kill switch you still HAVE to turn the ignition off when parking so you'd be wearing both out.. If wearing contacts out were a concen then you'd never use the kill switch at all as you don't HAVE to do that.. Just saying... | ||
| Xodot |
Every time you interrupt an electrical current through a switch, a minute particle of the metal contacts gets eroded until the contacts fail to conduct current reliably. So, what would be cheaper to replace, a kill switch or an ignition switch? My vote would be to use the kill switch. this stated opinion assumes the two switches are built exactly the same and will wear at the same rate per use. There is no evidence this is true therefore your assumption is faulty logic.} | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Not to mention on the wear idea that when cycling the ignition on off I seriously doubt the kill switchs load varies. The load it sees is the same no matter the order of opertions | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Or you could just let out the clutch in 6th. Stops the engine without any electrical wear at all to either switch. Then disconnect the battery. Leave both switches on all the time. Push start the bike...no wear and tear on those switches...or the starter, come to think of it. I'm a genius. | ||
| Jules |
LOL.. And you'd save wear and tear on the starter motor and starter clutch too LOL | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
"Or you could just let out the clutch in 6th. Stops the engine without any electrical wear at all to either switch. Then disconnect the battery. Leave both switches on all the time. Push start the bike...no wear and tear on those switches...or the starter, come to think of it. I'm a genius." Holy crap this was hilarious! Just for SnG - I use both abotu 50/50, just depends on conditions, whats going on. If Im about to pull into a parking spot and im still rolling I'll often hit the killswitch. If I come to a complete stop then I'll usually use the key. It just varies, I dont think there is a 'better' way between the two. | ||
| 1_mike |
1125CR - Key XB12S - switch (With the CR's Clubman bars on the XB...and being on the left side, the key is all but impossible to reach, even in neutral..) Mike | ||
| 1125rcya |
Ok now what portion of people use only the KEY have stator issues/system voltage issues Could this be the Mystery problem LMAO | ||
| Fio835 |
I never really thought about it, just always do I guess...?? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I almost NEVER use the kill switch. I roll to a stop in neutral and turn off the key. 2008 1125R, 26k miles, ALL original electrics, except HID lo-beams. YMMV Ooops, 2009 IC.... Z (Message edited by zac4mac on August 11, 2011) |
