| Author |
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Jdugger
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 11:51 am: | 
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> you've got some serious mechanical issues that need to be addressed.
Yea, one of two things just happened:
1. You just t-boned that deer that pulled out in front of you because you aren't slowing down very quickly.
or
2. 8 riders you picked up on the start just stuffed you into turn #2.
The point is that excessive engine braking doesn't help at all when you need the bike to be stable the most, and it might hurt quite a lot.
In your situation, you are just barely shedding speed at all. Using your method, it would take hundreds of feet just to shed a few tens, if that, of MPH.
I suspect my definition of coasting and braking are quite a bit different than yours. |
Skntpig
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 02:14 pm: |
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The only con for the ecm is when you get it you will ask yourself why you waited so long. Well worth the cost. Best mod/$ |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 03:38 pm: |
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If I am about to hit a deer, engine braking is pretty low on my ToDo list.
If however I'm tooling a 2 lane and see a light go red a block ahead, I'll use that slowing power to my "econo" advantage.
If a guy ahead of me slows a few mph, I prefer to be able to slack my right hand a bit and compensate.
Racers should be on the gas or the brake, commuters not so much.
I'm fine with the way my race ECM slows down, now that I'm used to it.
Kinda miss the Jake brake now and then tho.
 |
Froggy
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 06:12 pm: |
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Zac, leave it in gear, use the kill switch to cut the motor, then go WOT. Enjoy the noise  |
Ohsoslow
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 12:35 am: |
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reepicheep, i think you are spot on. my friend actually seized his 2 stroke dirt bike that way, well pull starting it with a quad, thing wouldn't start but he was so persistent on trying to get it running it seized from lack of oil while the engine was spinning.
The real argument against engine braking is that under braking in general the rear tire has little traction to spare.
Unless you want the bike to track out of line, why waste what little rear traction you do have on trying to slow the bike when the front brake is so much more effective at this task, anyway?blue/
that is in a racing situation, a slipper clutch is supposed to help with that issue. im talking about normal street ridding, you see that light has changed to red a ways up the road and you roll off the throttle how is this bad for the engine/trans? } |
Avalaugh
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 03:52 am: |
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Froggy, just a mention to others, I don't recommend using the kill switch on this bike while it's in motion. I did once, never again. My mates old fireblade (carb'ed model) would make a wicked backfire and fire back up, when I tried it the rear wheel locked up and I nearly came off.
Just wouldn't want someone to try it and crash, be warned.
Not to say it can't be done, just not by me.
(Message edited by Avalaugh on March 30, 2011) |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 11:19 am: |
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You need to be in a pretty high gear on the 1125r, or weigh a lot not to skip the rear with the motor off.
High compression, big-bore V-Twin. I've *never* seen someone successfully push-start this bike. |
Avalaugh
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 11:39 am: |
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Think i was crusing in 3rd about 30-40 mph, it locked right up and went sideways, grabbed a handfull of clutch and just saved it. Never trying that again, shat my pants for sure  |
Froggy
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 11:52 am: |
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Ava, my carbed Blast will backfire, but none of my FI Buells. It is rare that I do it, just one of those fun things to break up bordem. I've gotten good at it on the Blast with tailgaters, I hit the switch off and back on at the right time that I won't lose speed and still make a nice bang, it usually will scare them a bit till they back off |
Jaimec
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 03:30 pm: |
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Froggy... that works GREAT at night when it's accompanied by a visible blast of orange flame.
Used to do things like that with my Yamaha Venture Royale. Right after the backfire, press the centerstand to the tarmac with your left foot and create a SHOWER of sparks. If the tailgater doesn't slam on his brakes or swerve off the road, he must be asleep at the wheel... |
Jaimec
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 03:32 pm: |
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By the way, I'm done arguing engine braking because some twits just can't seem to help reading words I DIDN'T say, or coming up with situations where no one in their right mind would use ONLY engine braking.
I could only suggest to those people to spend a day on the track with Reg Pridmore in a C.L.A.S.S. session and argue it with him. JaimeC out. |
Avalaugh
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 03:41 pm: |
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oOooooo.......  |
Bwbhighspl
| | Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 12:33 am: |
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So what does the "engine braked" EB R ecm do differently from the default EB R ecm?
Not the downshift brake, the roll off gas brake. |
Dannybuell
| | Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 10:51 am: |
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Erik Buell Racing ECM diesels with throttle off as though there was no engine compression. stock ECM will give you engine compression. |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 04:36 pm: |
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> So what does the "engine braked" EB R ecm do differently from the default EB R ecm
It's the setting of the Idle Air Control. This is a small device on the throttle bodies that let's a little air in when the system detects there's significant vaccuum in the throttle bodies because the rider has closed the throttle with significant "pull" on the motor.
You can program the IAC to be generous or not even actuate. On my race bike, if I chop the throttle the IAC is programmed to roughly "idle" the motor at around 3,000 RPM. So, I don't get a strong (disruptive) rear wheel drag when I'm off throttle.
Set at the extreme other direction, the motor provides a LOT of engine drag. Enough that during trail braking at track speeds you run the risk of breaking the rear end loose because the drag is quite significant; large displacement, high-compression V-Twin and all.
You can compensate by holding the throttle slightly open, or being especially talented with your blipping. But, I find it easier just to ask for generous IAC programming and not worry so much about losing the rear end under hard braking. |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 04:41 pm: |
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> that is in a racing situation, a slipper clutch is supposed to help with that issue.
Slipper clutches really only slip significantly in significant events. They more or less don't interfere with normal engine braking.
I have a Suter clutch with the softest back-pressure spring they make in it. I'm here to tell you it makes a huge difference when I need to bang the bike a gear down to climb a hill in the middle of a corner.
It's worthless when I'm at the end of braking, completely pitched over, and just finishing up braking while starting to transition back to throttle. With the rear end talking to you (because it's VERY light), and not being a good enough rider to super-moto my way out of the corner, I love that generous IAC programming. |
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