| Author | Message | ||
     Nillaice |
     a handful over 7k mi, OEM coolant, still under warranty called up the dealer, but had to show them before they would order parts. there is a new water pump seal package, with a different lubricant. ... we'll see.  i havent seen much posts about this failure. definetly not in relation to the stators. i guess it's less common, or not as drastic of a condition, with better signs of failure. at first i thought a bird had crapped on it, but later realized teh source, when another 'tear trail' appeared.  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Anyone way to take out the water pump without dropping the motor? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Yeah. here -  I took these yesterday for personal reasons. Here's where I found my shim that jumped out of my hemostats and into the bowels of the motor. I didn't have to open her up, I used arthroscopic medical tools.  Z | ||
| Littlebutquick |
JUST TAKE REAR HEADER OFF JUST HAD MY R DONE ITS A WHOLE NEW CASE THERE ON Erik Buell Racing HAVE A LOOK THERE HAVE A BLACK IMPELLER | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Mine still weeps occasionally, but not while the bikes running. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Same here Bueller | ||
| Fresnobuell |
So Zac, you must have shat when you lost that shim! removing the rear header will give access to the water pump w/o dropping the motor? Thanks. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Not sure what all Jeff did to get it to this state in the pix, Harlan. Jeff is learning the 1125 motor, he's our H-D Master Mech/Tech and does top-shelf work. Slow and by the book the first time or two... he's replacing the seals in the water pump on this one. It just looked so clean and apart, had to take a shot. Yeah, where the shim was sitting, something would have broken at a catastrophic level if I had hit the start button. If you ever drop anything when you have the Front apart, this side cover comes off instead of splitting the motor. There's a similar set-up on the other side too IIRC. Z | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Oh, I thought you were wrenching yourself. At first glance it looks possible to remove the water pump if the rear header is removed--but I seem to remember getting the rear header out is a chore itself | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well Zac, bet you learned to stuff rags into those holes in the head while it's open next time, right? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Ryan, there are just too many holes to stop up, great for oil, a challenge to work on... No, I made a couple of magnet tools for removal and insertion that work to maintain control of the shim. I go back in tomorrow, Harlan, I'll talk to Jeff and let you know if there's maybe a quicker/easier way than rotating.. Maybe Max will show up, he's on winter-layoff but is working on his own bike sometimes. Now that I look at it closer, yeah the engine is rotated down. I remembered seeing the opened side, just not the level of disassembly, sorry for any false hopes. Z | ||
| Zac4mac |
No help Harlan. Talked to Jeff today and he said he didn't see any shortcuts possible. Maybe somebody else has found a way. Z | ||
| D_adams |
If you've got a bike lift with a wheel clamp, there might be a way. Clamp wheel, remove muffler, support engine with a jack. Loosen the rear wheel, get slack in the belt. Lift the rear wheel off the lift a little and remove the lower shock mount from the swingarm. Lift the bike more, the swingarm/wheel will stay down and open up more room to access the rear header. 10 mm socket on a swivel and extension. You might want to remove the O2 sensor first, before loosening the header nuts. This is just in theory, I haven't actually done it yet, although I've been told that it will work. | ||
| Phelan |
I know this is an old post, but I used Dean's decribed method today to disconnect the rear header. I have yet to get it out though. Doing the water pump seal. |
