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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through June 17, 2010 » Any Tips on installing 1125 Stock Exhaust « Previous Next »

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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 02:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone experienced in installing stock exhaust? Pretty tough. I thought using a jack on the exhaust will push the exhaust into place. But did not work. Had to resort to rubber mallet to move the exhaust into place. I got all bolt holes aligned after two hours, but can't seem to thread the left front bolt into the loose nut.

How are we suppose to tighten the left front bolt - got no room to maneuver or hold the lose nut.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Pdawg1970
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 03:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i dunno about installing, but when i just removed my stock exhaust i managed to get a 13mm box end wrench on the nut on the left side. all the others had nuts 'fixed' to the muffler.

i put the left & rite ones up front back in, using nuts on both without any problems.
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Jules
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 04:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There have been a few posts on this topic before, I believe a few people "bent" a spanner of the appropriate size to get it into position.

I used a long screwdriver to hold the nut steady when undoing mine but have never had to refit the stock pipe.

I did ask a similar question a few months back and there was one response saying it's possible to do the whole job in less than 20 mins..

That one nut is a PITA!
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For the nut:

Wrap it in safety wire, pull tight, and then bend the length of safety wire so you cna roughly hold it into position while you thread the bolt/nut together.
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D_adams
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A craftsman open end wrench can be slid up in there with the nut in it, if it keeps falling out of the wrench, tape across the back of the nut and it will hold it in place. You just have to be patient and steady to get it in there, then just gently turn the wrench until the nut rests against the oil cooler bracket. Start threading the bolt into the nut by hand, it will go right in. I've done it numerous times and it's not very difficult. Also, if there's a next time to do this particular job, before you try jamming the pipe back up under the motor, loosen the right side foot peg bracket just a turn or two on the bolts. It makes all the difference in the world in trying to get the pipe back up in place. Mine slides in like it's greased up in warm butter now.

Hmmm, that kinda sounded wrong.
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Bigevildoer
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget to loosen the right side rear set assembly. If it's tight, you'll never get the stocker back on...
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Avalaugh
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2 HRS !!!!!!!!! yours must be a right pain, ill have mine off in 10 mins and back on in 10 mins.

Thought it was a great design, hope you get it sorted,after a few times it does get alot easyer i must admit.
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Daggar
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go to the auto parts store and buy a set of wrench ends that will fit on a socket extension. I don't know what they're called but they're just the ends of an open end wrench. You may have to use some tape, as Dean said.
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Jbarron
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did this once and got lucky.
I thought a better solution would be to replace the two bolts with one long one.
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Ccryder
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crowsfoot
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Daggar
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Woot! Thanks Neil. Couldn't remember what they were called for the life of me.
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Thunderbike
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Number one thing is to loosen the shifter and rear brake bracket mounting bolts(no prying or pounding needed).It's way easier to do if you have a lift,but I did one on the ground that did'nt take more than 15 min.to install with ordinary snap-on combi.wrenches.It's tricky but not impossible.
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thx much all.

I was dead tired and didn't think about loosening the foot peg brackets. That's the tip I needed yesterday. Man what a PITA it was.

Thanks to you guys, now I know.

It's amazing that the service manual does not mention loosening footpegs. Something simple as that would have saved me time and agony.

And who's the nutter that designed the front mount. That left-front nut should have been welded or held like the front-right mount.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, June 13, 2010 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When the FSM was written, the techs were learning on proto models that had a smaller oil cooler.
When I asked Max how he got it off, he said he just stuck a wrench in there.

When I got my Drummer, I gave him the 90 degree bent box 13mm I modded.

Take a cheap 13mm box-end wrench, heat to cherry red and bend 90 degrees.
If it won't hold the nut on re-assembly, put a small piece of black electrical tape in the teeth of the wrench.

Zack
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Sunday, June 13, 2010 - 02:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The front left nut is so illogical.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know how any of you guys got it in 10 minutes, I am 2 hours in and still can't get anything to line up right, even after loosening the peg bracket. My plan was to throw the stock can back on my R and take it to homecoming, fat chance at this point!
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Therealassmikeg
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 06:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy,
If you are having trouble lining up the rear muffler mounting holes I would suggest you take a look at the muffler itself.
The nuts on the muffler float fore and aft in a slot. You can locate/center the nuts by inserting a pick or small screwdriver
through the hole in the foot peg brkt.
Leave fasteners loose until you have them all started. Then tighten everything.

(Message edited by therealassmikeg on June 16, 2010)
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