| Author | Message | ||
     Nickg |
rode 100 miles today...frame on my cr was HOT...hot enough to make me VERY uncomfortable with my legs against it Right foot cooked too is that normal? | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Did you note the coolant temperature while riding? If it's over about 171 maybe something is amiss. Could be low coolant. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
is 170 the normal operating temp? Is that the temp you get when idling or during rides? | ||
| Daggar |
170 is about when the fans come on. Mine will be over 170 if it's upwards of 65 degrees outside. At idle it will break 200. | ||
| 03fatboy |
I am regular over 180 on a cool day, have heard over 200 is normal during warmer temps. | ||
| Nickg |
coolant never went over 190 was mainly at like 180 it was over 90 outside temp ... (Message edited by nickg on May 02, 2010) | ||
| Jihelms |
at 80 degrees at idle mine hits 195-200 degrees but cruising at 60 or 160 stays about 170. | ||
| Kc10_fe |
I hit 219 today sitting in traffic. Hot 90 and very humid. | ||
| 1_mike |
Just do a "search". Granted...the search function is lousy here, it does work. You'll find tons of coolant temperature threads. A little more ignition timing, some additional fuel, insulate the interior of the frame and wrap the headers. The crappy little couple of insulation pieces Buell put inside the frame rails don't really do much. I've done all of the above to my CR and other than "having to do all that"...it works to relieve much of the felt heat. Mike | ||
| Nickg |
yea. I have to get the newest flash as it surges, pretty hard to ride at low speed or in a high gear at like 3000 rpm with that | ||
| Geforce |
Nickg, not to pick your issue apart but what gear...if any.. were you wearing at the time? The reason I ask is two fold... Yes these bikes get warm like any other combustion engine and lots of heat is transfered into the frame making it warm to the touch. Many of us don't notice this until we decide to go riding with just pants on...or even worse...shorts. More than likely you do not have an issue there are a couple of things you can do to mitigate the temperatures. 1. Heat Insulation. 2. Grip Skins 3. Distilled Water/ _____(Brand Name Engine Coolant Additive) EG: Water Wetter, Engine ICE, etc. 4. Wear Riding Gear with above the ankle boots and pants. If you coolant temps are nominal try the above options first. Good luck and let us know. | ||
| Syonyk |
The new flash makes a big difference in heat. A number of people on the board have the Gripster snake skin pads (myself included) - they don't help keep heat out of the frame, but they keep the frame heat out of your legs. Frame insulation + header wrap should help some. | ||
| Freight_dog |
Yep, these effers run HOT. I originally went from excited about the bike to "do I really want this?" when I first test rode one. When I got back on my Suzuki, I liked everything about the Buell better except the heat, and that was enough to make me reconsider wanting one. My air cooled Katana is much more comfortable to ride on a hot day, and the fuel never boils in it. The later flashes help it run cooler, but they didn't totally solve the problem. Mine runs 190+ in traffic at 70 degrees ambient, dropping to 175 or so on the move. It is definitely better than the bikes I test rode which would show 200+ under similar conditions, but they are still uncomfortably warm for hot weather. I think my Katana will be the go-to bike when it gets really hot. All the race ECM customers say their bikes run cooler. I am planning on a tune before too much longer. (Message edited by Freight_dog on May 03, 2010) | ||
| Aeholton |
All the race ECM customers say their bikes run cooler. I am planning on a tune before too much longer. I've seen that too. However, no one ever posts actual temperatures. I use my bike daily (stock ECM). Here in town I frequently see CT temps of 210*F. Once moving temp comes back down but is still in the 190's. I would be interested in seeing some actual Race ECM temps posted. | ||
| Pittsburgh_guy |
Take a look here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/554346.html?1271971990 a few of us talk about how much cooler the engine runs since the Erik Buell Racing ECM. On a side note, around here on Saturday it was f'n hot(85 degrees) and my temps got up to around 191 max in stop and go traffic, but that still was hot as hell. If you're really serious about engine heat. Best recommendation I can provide is a company called Jet-Hot. There coat can withstand 2000 degrees, yes that's 2000. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Saw coolant temps of 175 Saturday with the race ecm. It really wasn't that hot out and was not in city riding. | ||
| Redbat |
I wish people would stop saying that "fuel boils" in the tank after riding in warm weather. It gets warm in the tank and the fumes vent out of the over flow, but boil? Never. I live in Texas and have ridden in temps up to 105 degrees, and have never seen fuel boil in the tank. Lets please not exaggerate. Sorry about hijacking the thread. | ||
| Trafford |
With a Race ECM.....I have so far been getting temps between 73 celsius (164 Farenheit) normal running and up to 82-85 celsius (180-185 farenheit)in stop go low speed traffic. (Message edited by trafford on May 03, 2010) (Message edited by trafford on May 03, 2010) | ||
| Chevycummins |
Sorry Redbat, but fuel does boil in the frame along with the venting. Mine would do it all the time when shut off when the bike was really hot. You can hear it bubbling. | ||
| Trafford |
Hi Redbat I live in Northern Europe. I got my 1125R in February. It was around 34-42 degrees farenheit and on low fuel tank levels I was getting boiling I could see it with my own eyes and the fumes venting from the pipe were considerable. I insulated to frame around the engine to reduce heat transfer and fitted a carbon catch can to catch the fumes and fuel condensing in the pipe and dripping on to the pavement. Since these mods I have not noticed the sound of fuel bubbling (boiling) of fumes in the garage. The air temps have been up to 65+ now too. | ||
| Pittsburgh_guy |
I have to agree with Chevy, I have heard the fuel boiling in the frame. If you don't think so, riding in the hot for 2 hours when it's hot out. As soon as you're done, take the gas cap off. take a look yourself with a good set of goggles on. | ||
| Hack_job |
Up in CO with the lower boiling point because of the altitude and the ethanol mix, I get boiling almost every time I ride. You can hear it standing next to the bike, and you can pop off the gas cap and see it. I don't think I've ridden in over 75 degree weather, curious to see what happens when it gets hot out or I go to the track. | ||
| Whynot |
Yeah, what they said, hot and what to do about it. I have stompgrips on the sides, and always wear Dainese, I think they used the whole cow to make the pants, and another for the jacket. Next, I've got some thermotec for the inside of the frame and some header wrap, when I get to it. When I had my Monster S4R the rear cylinder would cook the seating area (you get the idea), it was much worse than the 1125. | ||
| Pwillikers |
Yeah the 1125 gets hot in traffic but, with the cr, once you're up to speed it seems to cool down significantly. By comparison, I'm looking for a LD touring machine and just test rode an '07 ST1300. I'll tell you, the frame on that bike gets very hot and sitting behind the barn door fairing, all the heat gets transferred to the rider. It was a beautiful 75 degree day and I was uncomfortable. Unlike the cr, highway cruising didn't mitigate the heat much given the stagnant air behind the fairing. It other wise would have been a perfect bike for the purpose but being in Central Texas, I walked away. I think it'd be a great choice for North Dakota. (Message edited by pwillikers on May 03, 2010) | ||
| Blackstripes |
Time to look for grip skins... and when I get my barker, i will wrap it as well. After a 200m ride this past weekend, my inner leg have red marks after 12 hrs because of the heat.. yeah, it was only 90 degrees and not a whole lot of city riding..and this is wearing jeans.. (Message edited by BlackStripes on May 03, 2010) | ||
| Thunderbike |
The only thing that lowers that temp.is the Erik Buell Racingecm(runs richer and has more timing advance).With the stock map if you get in low ambient light look at your headers and it will explain everything.Wrapping does'nt help unless you drop the motor and wrap that upper part of the rear header.This is from experience.That tank can get so hot you got to be careful removing the fuel filler cap,try it.Hot fuel,lower horsepower. | ||
| Jeepinbueller |
Whenever I get the chance I'm going to do some heat mitigation mods to the best of my ability by getting heat reflective tape/foam on the everything I can (underside of lower airbox, inside the airbox cover, inside of frame rails really good, and underside of the seat which will hopefully be a Baldwin by then). I'm also in the market for an Erik Buell Racing ECM (next paycheck) and those grip skins on the frame/airbox cover. That should help a bit. | ||
| Chevycummins |
The Honda ST1300 was another bike that has been known to boil the fuel. | ||
| Nickg |
i wear kevlar riding jeans,NEVER anything less. I noticed it even with the leather gloves i was wearing. As far a fuel boiling..i stopped and restarted the bike a few times and it was fine, but when i got home, the vent by the left passenger peg was dripping and you could feel the hot fuel vapor coming out(and no mistake, it was HOT) don't get me wrong, the bike did not overheat (in fact it was ok temp wise), but the frame was REALLY hot...you would NOT want to put your hand on it long. My 1000ss/ds would cook you if you sat in traffic...this is MUCH worse | ||
| Anonymous |
The insulation added to the 2009 and later 1125 frames is quite effective,and dropped the stabilized frame temperature roughly 10 degrees in testing at Harley's Arizona proving grounds. It is 2mm Pyrogel 2250 from Aspen Aerogels, and it is the most effective insulation you can buy. The Pyrogel is packaged in the shiny material to preserve it and allow it to be bonded to the frame. The insulation was placed at just the highest areas of heat transfer into the frame (i.e. near the hottest hot spots on the engine) for efficiency. However, for race bikes, we covered the entire inside of the frame with the same insulation, and while we never made objective tests of this, it undoubtedly kept the frame and fuel cooler yet. The other thing that racing showed was that an insulated rear header also reduced heat into the frame, though this was never quantified and wasn't required when the racing radiator air-paths changed so as to not duct hot air from the radiators between frame and engine. The reversed flow path on the DSB bikes using Canadian bodywork, and the ducted path on the 1125RR substantially dropped frame temperatures to the point where fuel evaporation was not an issue even with some quite volatile racing fuels that had histories of boiling, in, say, CBR600RR fuel tanks.  As for the fuel smell and fuel dripping, the single simplest thing that can be done with an existing bike is to install the carbon cansister. There have never been complaints of either from California 1125R or CR riders. |
