| Author | Message | ||
     Lastonetherebuys |
I had to store my R outside this winter because I dont have access to inside storing right now. When I put Christine away for the winter I had a brain fart and didn't put a sheet on her befor the plastic tarp and i had her uncovered the other day checking on her and i saw that there were fine scratches all along the right hand side of the tail section. My question is what polish should I use to work the scratches out? I know there is the novis product that HD carries but have never used it. Does it work well and is there anything out there that works better? | ||
| Kirb |
Novus #2 works fantastic on every plastic EXCEPT Buell's body work. It seems to to cloud the plastic for some reason. I had to use the HD suggested brand to clear up scratches AND clouding caused from the Novus. | ||
| D_adams |
I just picked up some of the same polish, I've used the spray before and it worked pretty well. It should do just fine. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Once you get any clouds out (this is gonna sound crazy), use a CD/DVD repair kit. Liquid stuff, put it on a rag and buff. It fills the fine scratches. I've seen it work wonders on translucids, guessing it'd work on black as well. | ||
| Dtx |
I had some scratches on my black plastics before too. I found out that a good car wax will buff them right out, and make it very shiney. I used McGuires good stuff and a damp applicator sponge. | ||
| Sportbikermed |
McGuires PlastX worked good for mine. If you need something a little stronger you can use a headlight lens restorer | ||
| Johnnys999 |
Despite what the manual says about not using a machine buffer, I used one anyway. I learned quickly not to use an aggressive foam pad, I used the softest foam we make (yes, I work for the foam pad manufacturer)in combination with Meguiars and DoDoJuice and the finish is mirror perfect. However, since I used non abrasive materials, there are some random scratches still around. I'm not worried about them at this time and later I'll pull them out with a similar procedure but with more aggressive polish and buffing pads. Taking it up a step will likely cloud the paint but no worries, I'll simply "stage" out the paint by using less aggressive materials. I've done it before and the process is simple and it works. I used Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish and Synthetic Sealant 2.0. The DoDoJuice I mentioned was a non abrasive formula and I also tried their hard wax. Both worked very well. I applied the polish and Synthetic Sealant using a 100ppi white 4" foam pad, called ultimate finish foam. The combination of non abrasive polish and non abrasive white foam is the ideal blend for polishing impregnated plastic/paint material. The foam is attached via hook and loop velcro on the back recess of the pad, the pad then connects to a small backing plate equipped with a 1/4" drill shank. This allows you to connect the foam buffing pad to a cordless drill, just like you would connect a drill bit. I had a hand and original idea in the design process of the pads, wanting them for the motorcycle industry. The company I work for makes the pads and numerous others.  | ||
| Ponti1 |
Wow! Johnnys999, that looks fantastic! Thanks for the info... | ||
| Bartman1 |
I use a marine plastic polish called "210" comes as a paste for heavy scratchs and spray for polishing. Works great! | ||
| Zac4mac |
I use Meguiar's Gold Class and soft cloths to apply and polish. All by hand, works well for me. Z |
