| Author | Message | ||
     Hogluvr |
Tried the search and couldn't find an answer to my question. Is the oil used in the motor for break-in anything special? I always make a habit of changing the oil in the bikes before winter and letting them sit with fresh stuff. My 1125r has 14 miles on the odometer, it is an '08 and I am assuming this bike has sat around with the same oil in it since it left the factory. I'd like to change it up if it's not going to affect the break-in, I have heard of car manufacturers using special oil for break-in and wondered if Buell did something similar? Also, will it affect my warranty if I do the oil change myself? Sorry for the noob question... | ||
| Bcrawf68 |
I got rid of the oil from the factory. It's a synthetic oil. Instead, I put in Castrol GTX, 20-50 for the first 1k miles. That helped break in the bike better. I did this to my '08 11r and it's a rocket. Did the same to my new 09r and expect the same results. Anyone else? | ||
| Hogluvr |
Wow, you sure that's synthetic? Not flaming on you, I've just always heard that you NEVER use synthetic oil for break in  | ||
| Drewpy |
u changed the oil from the syn3 that was in it to the 20-50 dino oil from harley at 620 and will change it out again back to syn3 around the time i put it up for the winter with 1500-2k miles | ||
| Hootowl |
I sure hope the oil myth police don't see this thread. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Someone want to straighten it out??  | ||
| Slypiranna |
The 11 comes with NON syn. I suggest you use NON syn during the "breakin" process. Only switch to syn once the your helicon is happy...depends on how you ride her to the miles that will be! See motoman's secrets here... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm And NO, this is NOT an advertisement! mm | ||
| Xnoahx |
FWIW HD says Syn 3 is appropriate for all stages of engine life, including break in. It is in the motors from the factory on the CVO models. But that is for Harley engines. I dont think they did the same testing with the Helicon | ||
| Slypiranna |
 | ||
| Slypiranna |
I KNOW HD didn't do ANY testing with the Helicon! LMAO... | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, that answers my first question (I think), now on to #2: Do I have to take it to the dealership for the oil change to keep the warranty valid? | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
My dealer says mine has, and came with, non-syn regular oil for the break-in period. I'll switch to Syn3 (or something like it) once that's over. Mike | ||
| Skntpig |
I break in all my motors using the Motorman method above. They all run great. Change that oil at 50 miles after a spirited run through the gears. Dino oil for me. | ||
| Moosestang |
OK, that answers my first question (I think), now on to #2: Do I have to take it to the dealership for the oil change to keep the warranty valid? No! | ||
| Zac4mac |
That needs to be a conditional "no". I got stiff-armed once and called BMC Customer Service, they ran it from there. I was told they WOULD cover me on warranty issues, knowing I was doing my own services. They aren't around anymore. No skin to me, my warranty expires next month. But y'all with new ones, talk to your dealer. If they are confident you know what you're doing you have a chance. Keep good records and be on time with the services. Bottom line is it depends on your relationship with the dealer, they make the call. My 2¢ Zack | ||
| Swamp2 |
Motoman say to change oil AND filter at 20 miles. Are folks changing the filter at the early (50, 300) mile intervals or holding off until the 600? | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Motoman does sound good. However he leaves out a lot. So i guess the question is -Is the filter plugged up at 20 mi? Believe I'll save some money and change when the manufacture said to. | ||
| Skntpig |
The first few miles will have the most wear your motor will ever see. Seat those rings early and it will run great. I do this in new cars and trucks too. (Message edited by skntpig on November 09, 2009) | ||
| Averagejoe |
Dont use Syn3 it sux! | ||
| White79bu |
I ran factory oil for the fist 300 miles. Then I switched to Amsoil and started track days. Since then I change the oil every two to three track days. It has ran like a champ ever since. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
SYN3 does not suck, but it isn't 100% fully synthetic either- it's a semi-syn. There are many 100% full synthetic oils that are superior to, and cost less than the over-hyped, H-D branded (semi)SYN3 made by Citgo. You won't hurt anything by breaking in with a semi-syn, but you should change your oil regardless before 100 miles. After break-in, you should consider a quality 100% full synthetic oil (Amsoil, Mobil, etc...). Don't buy into the H-D marketing BS- you can pay less and get more, and it won't void your warranty. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
As Paul Harvey used to say -Here is the rest of the story, good read BTW. Breaking in an engine is a process of properly wearing-in the pistons/cylinders/rings, bearings, valves, camshaft, lifters, rockers, etc(in our case don't forget the drivetrain components)... In addition, part of the breaking in process is not only wearing-in and seating the internal engine components but also stress relieving the components as well. Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, blocks etc... have many stresses due to the casting or forging process, machining and welding process. We have viewed and measured these stresses, called fringes, using what is called lazer holography. These stresses are properly reduced/eliminated by costly and time consuming heat aging as well as shot peening and or high frequency vibration on a very specialized bedplate for an extended period of time. For production applications this is cost and time prohibitive. Therefore, the next best thing is exposing your engine to multiple heating and cooling cycles under various load and RPM's, which is described in the following paragraph. The heating and cooling break in process continues over a period of time and does not need to be run on petroleum oil. http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1102880/co nverting_to_amsoil.htm | ||
| Averagejoe |
Its funny harley would buy oil made by a company owned by Hugo Chavez isn't it? And studies have showed that Syn3 is not good oil, and over priced. | ||
| Ohsoslow |
Do I have to take it to the dealership for the oil change to keep the warranty valid? generally no, i came off an 07 speed triple in 11k miles it had gone thru 3 engines, the first at 6k miles the second 1000 miles after rebuild and third 3000 miles after rebuild again. anyways, they tried to say that the engine let go because i wasn't changing the oil regularly, but what i would do i save my oil and filter receipts snap a pic of them with the odometer of the bike at the time i changed the oil. that nipped their bs in the butt and warranty covered it. funny thing is, oil change intervals on the S3 are at 6k the first engine blew at like 6133 miles. | ||
| Skntpig |
. (Message edited by skntpig on November 09, 2009) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Your dealer is nuts. Whatever oil came in it from the factory will be fine for break in. Just ride the darn bike. ac | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Typical H-D dealership BULLCRAP! By Federal Law you cannot void your warranty by using an oil that meets or exceeds the specifications of the manufacturer (your bike is approved for mineral, semi-syn, and full-syn oil). H-D dealers are the worst for either claiming you'll void your warranty by not using H-D oil (to take advantage of uninformed customers), or actually falling for the H-D marketing BS themselves (uninformed employees). Whichever is your case- don't let them bully you. Ask the service guy to explain the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act to you, and if he can't suggest that he do a little research about the federal laws that directly affect his job- he should know about them. You are, unfortunately, experiencing some of the H-D "attitude" that most of us find so unacceptable. Buell owners are generally much more informed and far less likely to fall for the ignorant, baseless hype generously dispensed at many H-D dealerships. The insult to injury is how these dealers react to an informed customer- they really don't like it one bit and typically resort to customer no-service. It's pretty ridiculous, really. | ||
| Romano |
20W-50 oil is for old engines or Tractors. You should be using a 10W-50 semi syn like Motul 5100. I use it and am happy with what I hear. It flows faster at start up and covers you at high temp also. The cam chain start up noise is greatly reduced as they pump up in half the time...try it, it works. There would not be one other manufacturer that would be recommending 20w-50 oil in a modern engine. Mobil have stated that they produced Mobil 1 for Harley customers. Rotax have also stated that the only oil that Harley asked them to approve was Harley oil. thats what they want to sell. Romano | ||
| Jammin_joules |
" It's a synthetic oil" No it's not. Factory oil is standard v-twin 20w50. | ||
| Jammin_joules |
"H-D dealers are the worst for either claiming you'll void your warranty by not using H-D oil (to take advantage of uninformed customers), or actually falling for the H-D marketing BS themselves ... " Generalization that is not based on fact, at least not at this dealership. |
