| Author | Message | ||
     Bob_saggot |
So I bought a new CR last week and took it out for the first little road trip today. Went about 50 miles. I road in the upright position for the first 5 miles then rested my stomach on the tank and my elbows on my knees. It was tough to see how fast I was going and my nuts were being pinched. My question is, is this the correct way of riding or are you suppose to use the back pegs and do something similar? I did try it for the last mile and it seemed more comfortable and I could see my speedometer. And I won't be riding again till next spring due to work and weather here in Minnesota. I also have a handle bar mount for my GPS unit from a few years ago. And it looks like it will fit perfect on the mirror bracket where it comes off the bike and goes straight up. Any objections to this? The bracket seems solid and I haven't seen any pics of that setup here. Another question to adjust your mirrors you just push on the glass to where you want it correct? I looked through the manual and seen nothing. But the mirror has a sticker on it saying that's what you do. But jesus H the mirror is so stiff it feels like I'm going to break the glass when pushing on it. And last noobie question for the night, is there an aux power jack in the front somewhere to plug my GPS into? Thanks for any help, I'v never really road a rocket before buying one. Just figured its a hell of a deal and you can't pass it up. And so far its been a blast. This bike is SHARP. It's amazing how many people stare when you go by. It's almost embarrassing. | ||
| Froggy |
Ride it however your most comfortable. I am a lay on the airbox head in between mirrors when on the highway person. Upright at lower speeds. GPS should be fine there. Yes push on the glass, thats what the sticker says. If you need to adjust it more you can loosen the two allen key bolts that hold the whole assembly on and rotate it forward and back as needed. Aux jack under the flyscreen. You can get a 12v cigarette outlet from Buell that will plug into that so you won't need any special adapters for phone chargers and such. | ||
| Bob_saggot |
Thanks froggy! You just saved me a lot of hassle. I plan on getting the 12v cigarette outlet and will look into adjusting the mirrors that way before pushing on the glass. And the riding position, when your in tank position do you normally have your feet on the rear pegs? Or are they mainly ment for the passenger. | ||
| 1_mike |
Bob - As for the nuts.....you'll have to modify the seat to properly fit the male body shape. I took mine to an auto upholstery shop. They shaved the stock foam so it's the same thickness from the back to the front. Then from the portion against the airbox cover...down, forming into a small radius at the two new foam surfaces. Then some new radii need to be cut to get rid of a few new corners that are formed with the above shaving. Just look at the "angle" of the seat on a Japanese sport bike, then look at your seat..! NOT very ergonomic.... A new cover will be required after reshaping the foam. The whole thing cost me $95.00 and a week without the seat. NOW...the seat fits the male body that actually has to lean over to grab the bars. Mike | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Unless you are spending a whole heck of a lot of time at a track at triple digit speeds, put the high bars on the 1125CR and enjoy. Sport Rider magazine tested the 1125CR in the Dec. '09 issue and immediately changed to the high bar. They had nothing good to say about the clubman bars. This is the general consensus in the motorcycling press. I concur. Best change I've made to the bike is the installation of the high bars. Mirrors worked. Handling became light and precise. Highly recommended. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I am very comfortable, leaned over. Loretta is so comfy, I have dozed off while riding Interstate. But then again, I rode one of these for years...  Zack | ||
| Jdugger |
In my worthless opinion, the CR with clubman bars is more aggressive than the 'R with stock "clip-ons". For track duty, the clubman CR position is somewhat helpful, but there's no wind protection, so you get beat to pieces. At highway speeds, though, you can rest "on the headwind". The CR with the straight bar just oozes hooligan machine. I think Buell did the right thing making that stock for 2010. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
+1 on the uprights. Not to mention the really weird low speed steering with the clubmans. My vote for best mod. R | ||
| Doug_pirahna |
Yup, the upright bars totally transformed the way the bike feels. Not only much more comfortable to ride, but much more flickable handling. | ||
| Froggy |
I just put the Clubmans on my CR last night after running the last 5000 miles with the high bars, holy crap what a difference! I no longer get blown around in the wind, the bike handles better, I can go around turns faster than I could with the high bars, It feels more stable and confidence inspiring leaned over, and now I can finally use first and second gears at part throttle without risk of looping the bike. Good riddance, I should of demanded the dealer put it back to stock before I got it. | ||
| Bob_saggot |
Thanks again guys for your input. It's nice to hear both sides. Sense I won't be riding again until spring. My plan for next spring will be to continue riding it with the stock bars on and try to find a more comfortable method of riding (Like using the back pegs and positioning the feet high might to the trick). And if I absolutely can't get comfortable for more than a 5 mile ride I'll get the high bars thrown on at around 600 miles. The mechanic said I should bring it in around that mark to get everything checked over after break in. Cables, bolts, wear... (Hopfully its not too expensive or free with the warrenty lol). At that point I'll have them throw the high bars on sense I'll already be there. It's 150 miles to that dealer ship. There is a closer one but I never bought from them and its a stealership. That's why I never did business with em. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
You have to change the cables with the high bar. Just be careful you don't get stuck at the dealership waiting on them. KeS | ||
| Bob_saggot |
I'm going insane about this stupid question! Does anyone use the back pegs when riding?! Are they ment for the passenger only?! I feel stupid asking this but need to get it off my chest. | ||
| Froggy |
The rear pegs are intended for passenger use. If you are comfortable using them, then more power to you. Highbar kit: $$$ including installation, its not a 5 minute job. 620 mile service: It is not free. You can do it yourself for about $50 in parts. Don't wait till spring to ride, enjoy her as much as you can  | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
No, you're not supposed to have your chest on the passenger pegs!  KeS | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Does anyone use the back pegs when riding?! Yeah, in my personal experience....squids | ||
| Bob_saggot |
Yeah the dealer told me $500 for parts and labor to get the high bars installed. I'm not going to attempt them myself because I know how it will end. Well this winter I'll throw her in the back of the pickup and get the high bars installed if that's what it takes for a long distance comfort ride. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
"The rear pegs are intended for passenger use. If you are comfortable using them, then more power to you." No, don't use them that way -- at least not on a public road. When your feet are on the passenger pegs, you can't get to the rear brake or the shift lever, both of which you may need in an emergency. You also can't swerve nearly as quickly. If you want to do it on your private property where your crash won't involve anyone else, go wild. | ||
| Bob_saggot |
Alright Fmaxwell, I wont even consider it. Didn't think it was a good idea in the first place. | ||
| Redscuell |
' "The rear pegs are intended for passenger use. If you are comfortable using them, then more power to you." ' No, don't use them that way -- at least not on a public road. When your feet are on the passenger pegs, you can't get to the rear brake or the shift lever, both of which you may need in an emergency. You also can't swerve nearly as quickly. If you want to do it on your private property where your crash won't involve anyone else, go wild." ' I use the rear pegs EVERY day on my commute at freeway speeds only. As for the above negative comment about it, think about it: if you need the brakes in a hurry, on the 1125 you'd better be using the front brake only. Anything vigorous with the rear brake will cause a massive slide, especially when the road is damp. So as for braking, there's nothing wrong with using the rear pegs. It gets your upper torso out of the air flow, the force of which quadruples with a doubling of your speed. And as for shifting, it's doubtful you'd be using quick downshifts for panic stops; and the 1125 pulls well from very low revs anyway. At least one of the posters who responded in the negative rains on everyone's parade; and is not responding from any actual knowledge (and never does). So if you feel it's safe to ride with your feet on the rear pegs (again, I only do it on freeways, where all the traffic is travelling in the same direction; not in city traffic), then use your own judgment; not ours. | ||
| Froggy |
I haven't done it on my CR or R yet, but I do often ride my Blast with legs over the rear pegs when I am on the highway commuting to work. Every little bit to reduce drag helps | ||
| Fmaxwell |
@Redscuell "I use the rear pegs EVERY day on my commute at freeway speeds only." I don't find that surprising at all. "As for the above negative comment about it, think about it: if you need the brakes in a hurry, on the 1125 you'd better be using the front brake only" If you think that people should use only the front brake in an emergency, then you need to take an Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Ridercourse (or your country's equivalent beginner course). In that course, they teach riders to use both brakes and not rely on either brake alone. Here's a page about the UK Compulsory Basic Training. It will give you some much-needed advice about how to use your brakes properly: http://www.begin-motorcycling.co.uk/elc2.htm Sport Rider magazine "Riding Skills Series: The Basics of Hard Braking" By Jason Black, included: "For our final test, we modulated both the front and rear brakes simultaneously. Not surprisingly, we brought the motorcycle to a stop in the shortest distance of the three tests: 146 feet. Both brakes together undoubtedly provides the best braking performance." You continued with this pearl of wisdom: "And as for shifting, it's doubtful you'd be using quick downshifts for panic stops;" You downshift when you have to accelerate quickly. Not all accident avoidance involves a "panic stop." Sometimes you have to swerve and/or accelerate to avoid an accident. Are you going to grab a handful of 8-piston ZTL2 front brake while swerving? Yeah, that'll work out real well. "At least one of the posters who responded in the negative rains on everyone's parade;  Aw, poor Redscuell. I made you sad! and is not responding from any actual knowledge (and never does)." I obviously know a lot more than you do -- given your sub-beginner-level recommendation about only using the front brake. I also pulled a copy of the book "More Proficient Motorcycling" from my library and it also confirmed that you are 100% wrong about only using the front brake. See, unlike you, I actually read on subjects that interest me. That's why I know what I'm talking about. | ||
| Ezblast |
Truth is - rear brakes are practically worthless at high speeds and more likely to toss you sideways - I took MSF and the advanced rider courses, and what is taught, and what is admitted to being useful by the instructors -is really two different things. On a cruiser where the front brake is almost as bad as the rear - definitely use both, however, the disparity between front and rear abilities at high speed on a sport bike makes the rear more of a danger than asset. This topic has been discussed many times on this ole BADWEB and there will always be folks on both sides - so gentlemen try to act civilly about it. I personally use my rear brake for holding on hills, water and gravel situations, and thats it. Works for me, but you do whats comfortable for your safety zone, but experience is a better teacher, and he who survives is the best to testify - lol EZ } (Message edited by ezblast on November 03, 2009) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
At least one of the posters who responded in the negative rains on everyone's parade; and is not responding from any actual knowledge (and never does) Fmax, that comment is directed towards me. All I can say is my comment is from I have seen in my personal experiences with riders that ride with their feet on the rear pegs. It's a horrible body position for most anything one needs to do on a motorcycle. Swerving, braking, vision to the front and rear are all affected negatively. It's indefensible really. Red, you are comical. Thusfar, you have been a big proponent of rear brake use. Now the rear brake will cause "massive slides?" What a joke. I distinctly remember you gleefully posting that nobody at the Keith Code Superbike School said "no rear brake" and you concluded that omission supported your pro-rear brake stance. The truth is that you were in the special needs section of the school and braking (front and/or rear) wasn't even on the radar. BTW, I asked the man (Keith Code) point blank at Laguna Seca a few weeks about about the rear brake and he was emphatically anti-rear brake. I noticed that you removed your 90 mph top speed at Phillip Island in your profile. What's up with that? Did you break it or were you tired of the embarrassment? | ||
| Fmaxwell |
@Ezblast: Properly used, the shortest stops are with both front and rear brakes uses together. It's been shown in tests conducted on sport bikes by "Sport Rider magazine, among others. In sports like MotoGP, where weight, especially unsprung weight, is everything, if it the rear brake was not useful, they could remove the disc, caliper, pedal, and hydraulics. I'm not much on the I-do-this-and-haven't-died-yet school of motorcycle safety. That's the same line of reasoning that most of the helmetless Harley riders use. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Properly used, the shortest stops are with both front and rear brakes uses together That may be true in perfect test conditions, however I argue that in the real world the attention it takes to modulate the rear brake to avoid lockup under severe braking is counter-productive. The 5% better braking in perfect test conditions (probably by expert riders) is just not worth the high probability that something bad will happen. You have a finite amount of attention to spend. That rear brake attention could better be utilized elsewhere in an emergency situation. For most riders it's way too easy in a true emergency to forget to modulate the rear brake causing a skid, losing any added braking and complicating the situation severely. Off-track excursions and wheelies are good uses for the rear brake. I don't see many others. Pro racers use the rear brake to cause and control rear tire slides, not braking. } | ||
| Ezblast |
Fresno has the right of it, you want even better braking, buy even better pads - they are out there. In fact the only mod I'm going to do to this bike is Galfer CF pads to the front- total 1 finger work, great feed back and gentle on the disc. They use the rear brake in MotoGP to back the bike into a corner to be aimed for the next, and very few pro riders even do that - try again? - lol EZ | ||
| Froggy |
Yep, bring on the 2011 ABS Uly! Mash and steer | ||
| Jdugger |
> Properly used, the shortest stops are with both front and rear brakes uses together. It's been shown in tests conducted on sport bikes by "Sport Rider magazine, among others Those tests are also done on straight up-and-down stops with expert riders. Have you ever tried to turn into a corner while on the rear brake? Think that might be a useful thing to be doing in a panic stop to avoid t-boning some cell-phone-talking-minivan-driving-idiot? Unless you are an expert, that's going to really screw you. 100% chance of landing on your butt unless you have a lot of supermoto experience under your belt. There's nothing like track time to teach you what you can and can't do on your bike. And, you *can't* steer and brake at the same time when using the rear brake without backing it in unless you are barely braking at all, and then you have another issue. I have this discussion with guys all the time who believe otherwise. And, I will promptly stuff their butts into turns 1 and 3 at ECR to make my point -- both are off camber turns that require tons of braking going in, and will break the rear end completely loose if you so much as breathe on that rear brake. I can post some video of what that rear brake will do to you if you like. Back brakes suck, and at the mere mortal skill levels we here ride at, they do more harm than good. When you are braking, there is no weight on that rear end, and you really, really need all the traction you can get to keep the bike on line. Don't sacrifice that little bit of grip you need for cornering to the rear brake. Instead, modulate the front, dig that front tire in, look were you want to go, and press on the bars hard. You will turn better, steer faster, and slow harder than *any* use of the rear brake could ever bring you, and do so at far less risk of a spill. | ||
| Raceautobody |
Bob_saggot Hi I just checked your profile, You're from Garvin... It is good to see another from MN. I am just up in Dawson, Buell owners are few and far between around here. So where did you get your CR from? J&L? Donahue? Order the bars and bring it up. It won't be that hard to swap them out, and it will save you some $$$$ Al |
