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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 23, 2008 » Rear wheel grime and brake glazed « Previous Next »

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No_rice
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i was just reading through some threads and others are talking about the problems the way the exhaust is messing with their rear wheel and the brake.

mine has been discolored to the point that it is stained since i have had maybe 500 miles on it. it simply will not come clean. it is like it worked into the powdercoating. it pisses me off everytime i clean the bike.

that is more of a looks problem even though it pisses me off on a brand new bike the wheel still functions.

my other problem is that the moisture and gunk from the exhaust has also discolored the bottom of my swingarm and gotten my brake rotor and pads.

all that moisture and grime seem to build up a glaze on my rotor and brake pads. a decent amount of the time i hit the rear brake it just howls and feels as though it isnt going to do anything. not to confidence inspiring.

i let back off and reapply the brakes and most of the time it works, but what happens in those times where i really need the brake and dont have the time to let off and reapply just to see if it will work good next time?

i attribute it to the fact that the exhaust is aiming everything right at the rear brakes. i know that is the reason my wheel and swingarm are trashed even though i clean and scrub it pretty regularly.

i had my service manager call buell and see about warrantying my rim since the exhaust has trashed it and it still didnt have hardly any miles on it. they said that there really hadnt been much complaint about that problem and they wouldnt warranty it. he did mention that they would keep a record of my complaint and if they started to get a larger amount of complaints that were similar then maybe that would change.

has anyone else called buell about this problem?

i see others post about the state of their rear wheel, and have read a few complaints about the back brake acting similar to what mine does so i am curious.

i have taken and roughed back up the rear pads already only to have them reglaze after a bit.

the cooler the bike is and the cooler the outside temps are the more of a problem it becomes because of all the moisture being directed straight onto my brakes and rear wheel.
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Thurstonbuell
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No Rice ,
I have the same problems , and with my new translucent red wheels , i am in the process of making a simple deflector to redirect the exhaust away from the wheel and rotor , this causes it to hit the swing arm , and I am applying a clear paint protector to the bottom of the swingarm , so I can peel it off and replace it as necessary ,but I have not contacted Buell , but will if it will help your cause ,
Ken
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Hwyranger
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

these are diesel pipes attached to the back of the can around the tips. I haven't had any problems wih condenstion or glazing since.

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Hwyranger
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They don't hit the swingarm or discolor it.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tim - Somebody said they had success with acetone.
I had some success with brake-cleaner sprayed on a rag.
The powder coat is pretty tough, stop if you see blue, whatever solvent you try...

Less of a problem with the gloss surface of the amber trans wheel.

When it was cold, I would drag the rear brake on my way out of my subdivision.
The condensation was only a problem while sitting, warming up.
The rest of any ride, the rear worked pretty well.

Z
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Krassh
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Tom were did you pick those up at? I have been wanting to do something like but seem unable to find something at the local auto parts.

Also were they a nice tight fit over the stock tips or are they welded on?

Thanks,
Ken
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For cleaning my rear wheel I have found S100 to work very well, surprisingly. My back brake is typical Buell, used to set up the chassis for cornering or to hold you at a stop sign.

Time2Work
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Dtx
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hear ya No Rice...my back wheel is darker then my front one no matter how much I clean it. I haven't tried any harsh chemicals though. This is one of the few gripes I have about the bike. Why oh why didn't they just point the exhaust tips out at a 45 degree angle?

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Smoke
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

409 does a good job on the wheel. Back brake? your bike has one of those? just kidding, neil's right.
tim
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Hwyranger
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ken,

They are welded on. I went to a muffler shop and they got them for me. There was someone else on Badweb who did it first, but they used smaller pipes and welded them to the inside of the tips.
Tom
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Krassh
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I remember the other guys, not sure what happened to him. I like the looks of yours anyway.

I sent you a PM as well. We are in the same area. Any chance you can PM me some contact info for the shop? Part #? I really want to put these on my 1125R and like the way yours looks, just what I was looking for.

(Message edited by krassh on August 12, 2008)
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Krassh
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Figured you might be pulling a long shift. Any specific info on the tips?
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Krassh
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2008 - 01:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hwyranger you around?
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Hwyranger
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2008 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got the tips at a muffler shop through a contact at my dealer. The shop is in San Pedro. I can't remember what the size of the pipes were. I will try to get that info for you.
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Krassh
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2008 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks I appreciate. My bike has to go in for a week to the dealer for a few things. As soon as the new front brake line comes in they are going to replace the front brake line, the neutral sensor and getting the muffler powder coated since the paint is flaking off down to bare metal in spots.
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