| Author | Message | ||
     Archangel_g |
On long rides the vibration in the handlebars makes my throttle hand numb. I tried varying the RPM's, loosening my grip, changing my body position to reduce the weight on my wrists and hands. Nothing works. Does anyone have a solution for me? | ||
| Jdugger |
Weighted bar ends make a *world* of difference. Something like a Throttlemiester put a WHOLE POUND of stainless at the end of the bar and really, really help. The throttle springs on the 1125r are pretty stiff and take some getting used to, so that's another issue. I put the dark horse moto bar ends on my 1125r, and I like them. They are not as heavy or massive as the throttlemiester ones, but they did help a little bit. | ||
| Ccryder |
I've got the Throttlemeister Heavy on my 1125r and they do make a difference. What you really may be feeling is not so much the vibration but, the weight you are putting on your right hand. With the TM you do reduce the vibes but, you also can rest your hand. One other help is I installed the Convertabars so my hand position is about 3" back and 1.5" higher than stock. I would try the TM's first. Neil S. | ||
| Zac4mac |
When my throttle hand starts going numb, I reach across and use my left hand. I Effed-up my right thumb pretty bad in a low-side on Mt Palomar 30 sum-odd years ago and had to learn how to do this. Every bike I've ridden since then, right hand starts to go numb after 15-20 minutes. Real bad cross-winds give me trouble, but otherwise I'm stable, left or right handed. | ||
| Archangel_g |
Thank you for the replies.  Where is the cheapest place to get the Throttlemeister? I think I will give those a try, before I resort to driving with my left hand. Sorry Zaz4mac.  | ||
| Jdugger |
> Where is the cheapest place to get the Throttlemeister Just google it. I warn you, they are NOT cheap. If you get the really trick ones with throttle lock, machined scallops and black finish, they look remarkably cool, but will set you back nearly $200. Worth it, though, in my opinion. | ||
| Xb9 |
First long ride I did my hand was cramping, not just going numb. After that I removed the idle air solenoid cable, the throttle turns easier and no more cramping/numbness. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I removed the idle air solenoid cable What's the drawback of doing this? What does it impact on the bike? | ||
| Ccryder |
For the heavy, black and milled= $142(heavy)+$20(black and milled)+9.50(shipping)=$171.50 delivered. Some of our sponsers may be able to beat this MSRP. American Sport Bike has this one listed: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5376.html Give them a call I'm sure they can get the heavy and/ or black and/ or milled. I would go with at least the heavy. | ||
| Jpfive |
+1 on the throttlemeister, and also American Sport Bike. They are great folks. I have the rough finish, black, heavy units on my bike. They look great - like they are made for the bike - and work well also. Jack | ||
| Zac4mac |
I got a pair like these at Sun HD/B's Metric side. Not much weight, but I'm thinking of a way to add some lead shot behind them. No throttle lock, but lots cheaper at 12 bucks a pair. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=2329 395B-8504-40EE-BD5B-9EEBE4746B8D Z | ||
| Mikej |
I got the ThrottleMeisters I had on the M2 from Bomber. Then stopped at the manufacturer who makes them and got a rubber stopper, they're in Butler WI. Nice small machine shop that seems to machine these as a sideline, nice folks too. | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Another good buy is the traction grip's , much more comfortable , larger in diameter and alot more cushioning for your hands . IMO | ||
| Zac4mac |
Since the bar-ends I got are aluminum and don't add much weight, I got a seal-a meal, some bags and some #8 bird-shot together. Sealed up 140 gms of shot and stuck that up the bars, then put the bar-ends back on. Time to go see if it did anything besides slow me down by .0000003 seconds.  | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Zac , Let me know what you find , was gonna try something along the same lines..... I'm curious to know , may cue me into what direction to go! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Big improvement, hardly any buzz now. Just got back from a half-hour ride, no tingly fingers. I'm calling this experiment a success. Z | ||
| No_rice |
when i get tired of using my hands i just run the throttle with my foot | ||
| Krassh |
When I still had my '93 GTS1000 (IL4 Sport Tourer) my right hand would get numb. I believe it was a combination of the buzziness of a IL4 being transmitted through the bars as well as my wrist positioning. When you are riding are you aware of the angle your wrist is being bent in? Meaning is your wrist straight (inline with your forearm and hand) or bent at an angle for a significant length of time? I found maintaining a state of awareness in regards to my wrist position (i.e. keeping it as straight as possible) kept my hand from going numb. I have not had that problem with my 1125R and not sure if it because I am still conscious of my throttle hand/wrist position or the different frequency of the vibes from a v-twin compared to an IL4. Just some food for thought and the bar ends and the traction throttle grips are a good idea that has helped people on this forum. | ||
| Gfc55 |
I had the numb hand problem when I first got the bike. I finally thought to adjust the angle of the brake lever to a more wrist-neutral position (barely a few degrees rotation). I have far less numbness in my hand, and I'm generally more comfortable that I was with the adjustment angle as delivered. This fix is free so try it and see if it helps. | ||
| Archangel_g |
My numbness is only happening after a long period of time on the highway so I don't think that changing the brake lever position will do anything for me. But thanks for the tip anyway Gfc55. And as far as my hand/wrist position Krassh. I tried varying it from bent to straight, but it wasn't much better. The only thing that works a little is when I release some of the pressure on my hand by moving my whole body forward on the seat and loosening my grip on the handle. So I think the only solution for me is to try and reduce the vibrations to the handle bars. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Stop by a tire shop ask for a few strips of stick on wheel weights peel+stick inside bar see if it helps=min.$$$ | ||
| Zac4mac |
The nice thing about using lead shot is the shot can move a little. Turns your bars into cylindrical dead-blow hammers. Noticeable improvement with Loretta, and she's been running rough, exacerbating the vibrations, since reflash. When I get her back, vibration should be all but gone. Z | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Zac Where's your bike , are they looking into the rough operation since the reflash ? I too have been having alot of rough running since the reflash , and my theory of the bike re-learning fuel values....well....it's been a few hundred mile's , it improved some , but still VERY rough , bike surges and jerks , cant run a steady pace at 3000rpms at ALL ??? Gonna try your buck shot or wheel weights idea soon. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Running rough, all speeds. AFV at 100 F&R. Would be good at sea level, not at a mile high. If yours is same as mine, BMC should have it fixed soon. Wait a week and see what happens. Z | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Mine is good other than the low cruising rpm's , I'm at sea level , You thinking another re-flash Zac ? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have no idea what's up. Loretta's in BMC's hands now. All I can do now is wait. I hate waiting. This will be lots quicker than the wait for her to be delivered the first time tho.... I'm going to stay out of their hair and let them hunt. Z | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Zac, how do those stock little round black ends come off the bars if I want to do the lead shot thing? Sounds like a good idea and I'd like to try it. I've got a whole bag of 7 1/2 size for reloading shot shells. Hope you get Loretta back soon and well. Bob (Message edited by bob_thompson on May 08, 2008) | ||
| Zac4mac |
just wiggle them, they pull out. 2 or 3 ribs, they are just stuck in. If you aren't keeping them, slip-joint pliers work fine. If you want to keep them, you can wiggle them out by hand. It just takes persistence. Z | ||
| Nickcaro |
well, two days in a row of riding in the rain at steady cruising speed has shown me what numb hands are all about. I'll be looking in to the "stuff the bars" technique this weekend. ThrottleMiesters look nice but seem a little outside the budget and I'm apprehensive about locking my throttle. BTW: Zac's bike is the shop?? This could be my chance to beat his mileage  | ||
| Ccryder |
Nick: Even at full "lock", you can overpower the friction and close your throttle with a little effort. I have mine set up so that full on friction, the throttle will not close because of the return spring but, I can still manually close the throttle. Like I said somewhere else, with a Throttlemeiseter you get: 1) A throttle control device, 2) A vibration reduction device, 3) A bar end slider to protect more valuable items from damage. Time2Work |
