| Author | Message | ||
     Dave_bogue |
I want to believe in the "infant care" program that Harley-Davidson Buell CLAIMS they have. Based on your experience, it seems like it is just advertising propaganda. Same thing with Bagger Mike's problem. Those of us who have experienced the high quality and reliability of Japanese motorcycles may have to pass on the new 1125 Buell. Talk is cheap, but Buell needs to actually step up to solve the problems with the new Buells. The Japanese make a lot of motorcycle for the money and they are reliable. Rice Burner Dave | ||
| Baggermike |
Every Harley I have had never had a problem and every Buell I have had did have problems, how can this be I have owned way more Harleys then Buells 4 Buells and 9 harleys and the only problem was a battery on my bagger after 3 years 40,000 miles and I have never ridden all my buells to half of this, I find this weird. I also do not think Buell stands by there product from my expireance with them. When I broke down and needed a tow I had MTS towing service and I asked the guy two things the first was if he did this part time or full time and he said full time so bike break down allot to keep him employed and he looked like he had money, the second question was what brand of bike breaks down the most and he said they all do and not one brand stands out from the rest, I was surprised at the answer. I am going to check my intakes to see if they are clean or like Interex bike, I am real curios now. Mike | ||
| Ccryder |
Del (do you mind me calling you Del?): First off your photography is great. Second, with a cracked fuel rail you could have had much worse things to worry about, than valve deposits. Third, with the cracked rail, a bad 02 sensor and fuel pump, no telling what or where those deposits came from (pieces of fuel pump, fuel rail....) Until the Techs get the abnormal systems back to normal, it's very difficult to tell if the valve deposits are the cause or effect (the old chicken and egg problem). Believe me I feel your pain (we can go into that over an adult beverage or two, 1st one's on me) but, if I was the Tech/ Engineer I would have probably taken the same 1st. steps. I would ask the Techs to do a leak down test after the dyno runs and see how your engine is doing, ring/ valve sealing wise. Until then, thanks for the update, keep on communicating. Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
Interex I see what looks like threads on the valves and do not know if it is the picture or for real, I would like to know if you have sent this picture to Buell, if I was Erik Buell I would be watching these treads and if I seen what I see I would contact you personally and tell you to bring it to the dealer so they could ship it back and give you a new bike. I see a bad motor and never seen anything like in that picture, I am very unhappy that Eric Buell would let what is going with hes bikes and then ignore us, my ulysses took long because the tech guy would not listen to me and then when they ordered the part it was on back order, and what should have taken two week took over two month, again if I was Eric Buell and was reading this I would contack the customer and offer something for the trouble that I went through, and I do not see anything happening and I am sure he is reading these post, I would releasing a new bike I would want all the feedback I could get to make my product better but I guess not, I guess it is true that money and fame ruin a good person that had good attentions and now does not care. Mike | ||
| Spatten1 |
That picture looks bad, if that is metal shavings on the valves. CC is right, I would want a leakdown test and would want to see the results. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
It looks like "pitting" on the valves to me. It makes me cringe every time I see it. | ||
| Interex2050 |
Dave and Mike, I do not believe that Buells are unreliable, most are... Although there are a few bad ones that get out. Its just that Mike and myself have been fortunate enough to get the experience a few faulty ones. Although it would have been nice for them to have setup the infrastructure a bit ahead of time. Mike, I am very curious to see how your valves are looking, let me know. Buell is supposed to have gotten those pictures, they were sent by three sources (I think). I think what look like threads is just the light hitting the machine marks at a strange angle. I think that Erik does care, but we have to remember he has a lot on his plate. Neil, Del is fine by me. Thank you, I try to do my best to document things. You do bring up a very good point, that a cracked fuel rail could have been much worse... Not to mention exciting You are right about the diagnosis, it is the intelligent way of doing things. Although I am still concerned about the lack of concern about the issue, by the techs and CS. I will make a point of requesting that they preform a leak down test, ASAP. Scott, The more I look at the photos the more metallic they seem, although I do not recall getting that impression when I saw them in person. We shall see, I will be more persistent about getting more "data" from the dealer and BCS. I will let you know the results of the dyno run and the leak down test as soon as I can. Best, Peter (Message edited by interex2050 on February 22, 2008) | ||
| Interex2050 |
Neal, It sure it unpleasant, although I am not sure if there is any pitting though. I will try to make an appearance at the shop tomorrow and see if I can sneak another peek in there. Best, Peter | ||
| Dbird29 |
Could you get a swab sample of the valve deposits? Sure would give you better peace of mind to know exactly what the deposits were. | ||
| Ccryder |
CSI here we come!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Interex2050 |
I will see what I can do... Although the deposits looked crystalline in nature, so I think they would have to be scraped off; in which case I would be concerned about disturbing the seat. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Can you spin the engine and look at the piston tops either through the spark plug hole or the valves? | ||
| Interex2050 |
I will see how much they will let me do at the dealership... I'll keep you guys posted | ||
| Spatten1 |
I have a flashlight attachment with a fiberoptic tube on the end that is great for looking in sparkplug holes at the piston/cylinder. Maybe one of the mechanics has a similar setup. | ||
| Interex2050 |
If not I can just spin the engine such that the intake valves are open, open the throttle bodies and shine a flash light in there, and sneak a peak through the spark plug hole. | ||
| Interex2050 |
Well it does not appear as though I will be allowed to tinker with it, as when I spoke to my service writer earlier and the tech was busy working on it. But I did get a very strange piece of information; when they ran it on the dyno after the installation of the fuel pump and rail (but before the new O2) they got 126hp@6500rpm... Now I do not know what the setup was, but that does not seem right... probably a simple mistake. They did not run it all the way up only up to 6500rpm, I am not sure why... Best, Peter | ||
| Interex2050 |
PS... If you want badweb will even allow you to email 126hp@6500rpm. HAH! Sorry couldn't help myself | ||
| Zac4mac |
Maybe somebody's dyslexic and they meant 9500 rpm. That's about where mine made 126 HP. Z | ||
| Sgthigg |
Wow, Sorry to see and hear about your bad luck. It truly is unfortunate and I hope the right thing is done when its all figured out. In the past I raised the question how did BMC plan on handling issues with these new engines since they are a totaly new type of motor to the HD mechs? I was told, its no big deal basically, They plan on crating them up an sending them back to ROTAX or wherever and a new crated motor would be installed during the initial relaese period. Hummmm why hasnt that happend here I wonder? That would be the logical solution to get you happy and back on the bike. | ||
| Interex2050 |
Zack, That may be the case, although I was told that they did run the engine all the way up...? I need new brake pads for the firebolt, again (5th set in 16000miles), so I will be up there today, hopefully I can come back with more information and dyno sheet (although Saturday is first come first serve so I may not be able to get much) Jason, Luckily I did not hear that, in any case I am trying not to think about what should have been done... I have been defeated, so I am just happy to accept whatever I get. I talked to the my service writer yesterday a second time. The reason things have been moving so slowly is because there has been a lot of miscommunication between Customer Support and the dealership. Things are moving along now, and all the issues will be addressed. They are working with Customer Service and sending data back and fourth between the two. Best, Peter | ||
| Cataract2 |
Good to hear that things are starting to clear up Inter. Hey, for your Firebolt break pads. If you using the stock ones I would suggest you dump them and go with the Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar from American Sportbike. I use those pads and love them. They last roughly 10,000+ miles or one front tire change. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9059.html | ||
| Interex2050 |
Ryan, Speaking of the firebolt front brake... I just measured my rotor, and at the thinnest point its down to 0.1765". Although I did find it interesting that the wear is as follows: Outer contact point 0.1845" Middle contact point 0.193" Inner contact point 0.1765" Fortunately I planned ahead for this and I have a new one tucked away. I am going to pick up some Lyndall Gold pads for next weekend. I figure if I am going to do all that might as well freshen up my caliper, and get the "piston set" as well. I have never tried the Lyndall pads, but if they last longer that certainly would not hurt. Thanks, Peter | ||
| No_rice |
"I need new brake pads for the firebolt, again (5th set in 16000miles)" holy cows! 22,000 on my 9, very hard riding and i just changed the originals off before i went to road america last summer simply because i wanted to try the lyndal golds. my original brakes still had plenty of life left. | ||
| Interex2050 |
Tim, I think a big part of that is due to the nature of traffic flow around here... Stop and Go Hard acceleration from red to the next light in hopes that the next light is red... HARD on the brakes and weaseling through stopped traffic to the front of the line and repeat. Cheers, Peter | ||
| Pwnzor |
They last roughly 10,000+ miles or one front tire change. exactly what front tire is it that gives you 10,000 miles??? The most I ever get on the front is about 8500, and that's with a Metzeler Z6. | ||
| Interex2050 |
My front tire usually wears a little faster then my rear tire... The longest I had was around 4000 miles out of Pirelli Diablos | ||
| Spatten1 |
Two to three track days will burn through a set of front pads on my XB. Probably a few hundred miles, definitley less than five hundred. I've used stock, EBC, and Lyndall. I'm using the Lyndall golds now, just put on my second set. Al told me that for race speed riding they may fade, but I don't run that pace and they have worked great for me. | ||
| Cataract2 |
exactly what front tire is it that gives you 10,000 miles??? The most I ever get on the front is about 8500, and that's with a Metzeler Z6. I can get roughly 14,000-16,000 out of my front using the Pirelli Scorp. Syncs. | ||
| Pwnzor |
I suppose it all depends on the individual's opinion as to when the tire is "done" I swap them out while there is still tread down the middle. Not much, but some for sure. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I methodically change the front every other rear. I'll usually let the rear hit the "under-rubber", order a tire or tires, and do a few burn-outs the day before I pull the wheel/s. So, Peter, have you got the bike back yet? Have you gotten to feel the eye-ball poppin' acceleration yet? heheheh hang on. Z |
