| Author | Message | ||
     Wrightd223 |
Hey Everyone, Took my blast out for some of the first consecutive rides of the season this week. Bike seems to be running in decent shape. Still has some chattering/slipping if I am in first gear for a while, but I have learned to live with that. I did notice that towards the end of my commute home from work (a 45 minute, 21 mile mostly highway/city traffic commute) the bike will want to stall out at red lights. When I originally fire it up, it seems fine and can idle for minutes at a time. Same thing with stop lights I stop at at the beginning of my commute, but this is not the case for any stops towards the end of my commute though. At the end of my commute, when I stop at a light and pop the bike into neutral, the idle slows down and down until it seems like it if it goes lower it will stall out. I rev the bike up so that it doesn't stall, but but as the commute goes on I have to rev more and more frequently. Because I only have this problem after riding for about half an hour, I am wondering what could cause this? Not sure if its the spark plug, idle speed adjustment, primary chain, or what. My bike is completely stock from a performance standpoint. I have purchased a denso iridium spark plug, but have yet to put it in. I have minimal carb experience, so I don't really want to rejet the carb and mess something else up in the process. Can I replace the stock spark plug with the iridium racing one without rejetting, or is that just asking for problems? In conclusion: a) any thoughts on why my bike wants to stall out after riding just fine for about half an hour (mostly a mix of highway, backroads, and city traffic) b) can I replace the stock spark plug with the denso iridium one without rejetting, or is that a disaster idea | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Replace the plug-rejecting not necessary. DO NOT take the carb apart. | ||
| Ahampton128 |
When it starts to idle down, pop your gas cap and see if it helps. There was a recall on the vent mechanism in the tank; if it's not breathing your tank will become a vacuum chamber and starve the motor. If that doesn't do anything check the intake boot for cracks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur. Does it blow out black smoke when you rev it up when's it dying? | ||
| Wrightd223 |
Sorry for the delayed response you guys! Appreciate the advice. Great to here that replacing the plug does not require rejetting! I will pop the denso plug in when I get the chance (it's been a verrrry busy summer and I have had limited time to go riding). I know you are supposed to put some locktite on the base of the screw threads, so I will need to do some research on exactly where to put the locktite and what kind to get. I have seen people say the "red locktite" previously, but I feel like there are many different red label locktite adhesives (272, 271, 26241) and I do not want to use the wrong one. If anyone has any tips or pictures of where to apply the locktite (and maybe a link to the proper type of "red locktite"), that would be much appreciated. I will try and vent the gas cap when it begins to die. Hopefully that is all the issue is.... I will update next time I ride the bike. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No no no! Loctite on the TIP, not on the threads. Anti seize on the threads. Loctite the threads and you'll likely strip them out one day. Just use a torque wrench-15lbs. | ||
| Wrightd223 |
Thanks for the clarification. So put it on the tip the spark appears at, or the other end? What would that do? Why do we need to put loctite on at all? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Where the plug wire connects to the plug is a nipple. On the factory plug it does not unscrew. On most aftermarket plugs the nipple unscrews-often it will be unscrewed in the package. If you don't screw this on with red loctite it will very likely unscrew from engine vibrations. Be careful not to go too tight or the plug will crack. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Use anti-seize the plug threads because the plug is steel and the head is aluminum and over time they can 'fuse' together and the threads can strip. It's also never a good idea to remove a plug from a hot engine as you can also strip the threads (unless you've used anti-seize). A properly torqued plug won't come out. | ||
| Wrightd223 |
Gearhead, thanks for the breakdown! I am new to all of this, so the basic information is greatly appreciated! I will update once I put the plug in and it warms up a bit here in New England |
