| Author | Message | ||
     Dummkauf |
I've been trying to get my 2002 Blast running for the last couple weeks with no luck. I failed to Winterize it last fall, and now I'm paying the price. I usually winterize my bikes around thanksgiving time, but my son decided he was going to arrive a month early the 1st week of November and with the new baby the bikes completely slipped my mind, but to the issue at hand... Since the battery sat in the bike all winter, that was toast, so I've already replaced that with a new one. As you could guess, the carb was all gummed up and nasty. I pulled it apart and the float pin was completely stuck. I got the float pin cleaned up and cleaned all the jets so that I can see through every hole and couldn't find any gunk. As far as I can tell the carb is in tip top shape again, but the bike still won't start. It's trying to turn over but it just won't start. If I spray starting fluid into the carb the bike will start up and run for a second or 2 before dying down. There is gas in the carb, so it's getting from the tank to the carb, but it's looking like it's not getting from the carb to the cylinder. Also, I just tore the boot before giving up for the night, so I'm stuck until next weekend when I can go pick up a replacement. Any thoughts/suggestions would be very helpful. Does this sound like somethings off with the carb or should I be looking at something else. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Sigh..... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, the bike ran fine before you parked it? Yes? So you took the carb apart and now it won't start? Yes? So, it would be my assumption that the carb as been re assembled incorrectly, improperly adjusted or possibly missing a piece (which is what normally happens when the carb is disassembled). I would first check to see if the needle guide is still present. What did you adjust or readjust or reset? FWIW: the slow jet was probably clogged and needed replacing or cleaning. Gasoline is a solvent and the carb is a closed unit. Generally cleaning or replacing the slow jet (IF NEEDED) is all that needs to be done. The gasoline will clean out the carb (if needed). It's my hope that others reading this will not take their carb apart and just fix whatever the real problem is. My apologies if all this seems sarcastic, but I've been beating my head against this wall for years.  | ||
| Dummkauf |
Yep, ran fine before parking it for the winter, though thinking about it now it may have been a little longer than just the winter, I don't think I had it out the last couple months of summer(riding the other bike). Bike wouldn't start so I took the carb apart and found the float needle stuck and gummed up, which lead to making sure everything else was cleaned. Yes, needle guide is still there. No other adjustments. Slow jet looked fine when I pulled it, but let it soak for a couple minutes in some carb cleaner anyway. | ||
| Dummkauf |
correction, the idle mixture screw came out too, so screwing it back in would have been an adjustment. That said, I have an after market idle mixture screw that can be adjusted by hand(has a know on the end), and I tried several different positions on that as well. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, maybe the boot was also torn before you ripped it? See what happens after the boot. Did you adjust the float? Is the diaphragm pinched? Double check the assembly? Drop the float bowl. Is it full of gas? | ||
| Dummkauf |
Well, maybe the boot was also torn before you ripped it? See what happens after the boot. <-- Sorry, this is the 2nd boot replacement this month, When I was first troubleshooting I ripped the boot removing the carb and replaced it once already. Tonight when I fired it up with the starting fluid without the air box to hold it and the boot ripped  Did you adjust the float? <- No. Is the diaphragm pinched? <-- Pretty sure no, but I'll pull it again tomorrow and check. Double check the assembly? <-- Will go through everything again tomorrow too. Drop the float bowl. Is it full of gas? <-- Yes (Message edited by dummkauf on June 30, 2013) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How old are these boots? I've had plenty of backfires and never ripped a boot. I would unplug the TPS/'Choke' wiring and start the bike that way. I would also, instead of using starting fluid, cover the carb inlet with your hand to form an artificial choke. (This method is a bit tricky, but if you understand what a choke does, you'll get it.) Unplug the headlight to boost your starting time and lessen power draw from the ignition. I dont have anything against starting fluid as long as you arent using it to run the engine, only to start it. But the 'artificial choke' may be more helpful in diagnosis. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I forgot to mention: Does the idle screw still have the O-ring, spring and washer (s)? |
