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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Diagnosing problems: » Fires, but not running « Previous Next »

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Madmotor
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First I'd like to say HI. I'm a first time poster here, but I've read over alot of these other "wont start" posts. SO here we go...

Been riding my blast all last season. Mid season I put in a SE Ignition and ran fine till winter. Winter came and I started her up after a month no prob. Next month she wouldnt start and sat the rest of the winter, outside but covered. Spring is here...

Blast will fire a few times then blow back. sometimes through carb, sometimes through exhaust depending where i turn the modual to. But even with the module right in the inbetween zone, where it should be, it wont start. I'm not sure that this is even a timing problem, just cant figure out what it is.

1. I have spark at the plug. strong and constant. Using a SE ignition, led blinks.

2. Should be getting fuel. cleaned carb vent holes, jets. Diaphrams good. Bowl is getting fuel. Removed vent line from Gas Tank. (super)Boot is good.

3. Timing is set static par SE instructions. TDC mark in center of window, adjust module so led is off. I have tried tinkering the module in diffrent areas with no success.

4. Kickstand, clutch swicthes disengaged.

5. on compression stroke my thumb is blown off spark plug hole, so I believe I have ample compression.

6. New fully charged battery.

I,ve even tried starting fluid in the carb and she just wont start
ANy ideas?

(Message edited by Madmotor on March 20, 2012)
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome to the Thumper Forum Madmotor!

So you are saying it ran fine when you put it away? You are getting spark, compression, fuel?

Then the darn thing should run!

Why are you starting it every month during the winter? If you are not going to ride it don't start it, you will only do the engine harm by starting it during the winter and just letting it idle and not get warmed up enough to burn off any condensation that builds up in the engine.
The Blast is a very forgiving engine, I would start by putting the ignition module back where it started out at or setting it by the static timing method, the LED just going out when the TDC mark(line) is in the window. I would spray a little fresh gas in the carb and try it. Fuel goes bad sitting around especially with all the alcohol in it.
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Johneblast
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to add what Swampy said, make sure that it is the vertical line in the "window" and not the two dots. Static time uses the vertical line and you want it to be centered after the exhaust stroke.
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Madmotor
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yep, gotcha. the vertical line is TDC, the dots are the advace for dynamic.

spark, fuel, dont have a compression tester though. just did the thumb over the plug hole trick. yes it was running before.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is it firing EVERY compression stroke? Not every 3rd time? Is it a consistent LED flash or are some flashes not as bright?

A couple things I know about the SE ignition:

The battery must be up to par and you cant have any related ignition/wiring problems.

They go bad : ( I know, I have 3 (yes thats almost $1000 in bad ignition modules. I have no doubt thats the biggest reason they stopped selling them).

Try spraying gas or starting fluid (easy Swampy) in the carb and see what happens. Do Not Run it on starting fluid. Spray it and start it avoiding the temptation to spray it directly into the carb as its running (disclaimer for Swampys benefit).

Try covering the carb inlet with your hand and see if it starts. If by some bad luck you broke some piston rings, super rich will overcome low compression. 75 psi compression is enough to blow your finger off the spark plug hole, but you'll have a real tough time starting the engine.

If you have the old module (and it was good) swap it back in. If you've done it once, it wont be that hard swapping it back. You dont have to reroute all the wires, just put it in and see what happens.

Welcome and keep us posted.
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Madmotor
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

now that you mention it, it was going "crank crank putt..." and the led did look a little irratic but I wasnt sure if it was my eyes playing tricks. After all, that module is practically new, prob only 1000 miles on it.

well, thanks for the tips guys, I'll let ya know how it turns out.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One module lasted for years. One lasted 6 months. One lasted 2 days. I do think there was a production run that was inherently bad.
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